Ashkellybarr

On 12/10/2019 at 22:37, BlownCorona said:

holy shit thats expensive  what am i, rich? 

Brain wave..

was just taking to a guy on FB that wants to get rid of his Ethrottle and run more boost. Already has g4 plug and play.

e throttle and charger feeds it self. I know you only have an MS but I think link make external throttle controllers as expansions for their ECU’s witch you might be able to get to work??

just get any scrap yard throttle off a Yaris or jazz or the likes

39 minutes ago, Bling said:

Ball joint grease, does it matter what you use?

I wouldn’t get to fussy. Be more focused on the boot sealing well to make sure nothing gets in there.

we’re had some guys at work put the wrong grease in robots that spec high grade lithium. Meant to get changed once a year or every 10khrs... a lot out there go waaaay past that with the wrong grease and tbh we’ve never had an issue

Nice work man! I really like the Gbox cross member

33 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

my S4 had those and i was seriously considering that as an option. 

for those that dont know, i believe hes talking about the 710N valve on audis and vws. essentially a vacuum/boost operated valve. its quite likely the option ill take i think. 

it would be a really clean way of allowing the air around the blower. 

i put really expensive 034Motorsport billet ones on the S4 and i regret not swapping them out for standard before selling!

 

 

Yup that the one 

13 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

fair enough. im gonna go with the 20R piston kit though. off the shelf parts that dont cost the moon that land me right where i want to be for not too much money seems like the good option, they are an aftermarket kit from a company in the states that specalises in building performance 20/22Rs and states the kits are suitable for mild boost. 

my only real question now is whether i keep the supercharger setup, and run a bypass so i can keep load off the engine at low RPM. as i do wonder if thats what contributed to blowing the first headgasket? though i suspect it was just and engine rebuilt poorly and/or neglected as i know it was sitting in a feild for upwards of 5 years. 

or do i convert to a turbo setup. if i did go turbo id want it to look very retro style, with an old looking (not nessesarly, or idealy acually old though), a bit old finned HKS external wastegate ect. hopefully that kind of paints the picture of the style setup id be interested in. 

 

ultimately its the same core engine and i can decide later on, i think im leaning towards keeping it supercharged. but having a supercharged car, a turbo car and v8 car wouldnt be the worst thing in the world

Every factory PD blower I’ve seen runs a bypass. Comy v6 tun a small 25mm one built into the housing. Toyota run an external plastic one that works as a wastegate effectively.

cheap way of doing one is using a late model VW bypass, in their system they use it as a plumb back blow off valve. Can be bought fit around $25 and work perfect

Excuse the palm ive been slowly killing. Bastard got in the waste pipe

Put lunch and beers on and got the cab off.

Debating weather to acid dip or sand blast still.

ill give it a water blast and get all the lines and shit off it

8CDBB3D6-F2DE-4E90-B4A9-2034D84EF311.png

Sweet I’ve got 3” straight of the turbo for the down pipe, reduces into 2.5 just past the bottom of the fire wall. Hard case fuel and brake lines are on the inside of that chassis rail.

might need to relocate them while its all a part..

Superchargers are pretty hard on them at low rpm witch is most of the issue

i remember talking to marsh about his engines and he said with PD blowers he gets them as close to 8:1 as he can.

in saying that though, that’s on carb v8’s with odd intakes.

multi point injection has huge jump on that tuning wise

personally I’d be pretty gutted if you ditched the charger 

Think 2.5” would be to small for a 2.4L turbo with 10:1 comp and high rpm?

RB guys double up head gaskets... 

Took it down the end of the rd and pulled some alright donuts. Plenty of torque!

Falls flat at WOT and high rpm so he’s gonna get a lift pump in the tank witch should sort that.

gets a lot of looks sounding super diesely and spooly 

ok it down the en

Kinda like the auto idea. Using a modern altezza one is good idea. Just wonder if it has a controller or not?

16 hours ago, tortron said:

You don't need an odometer unless you pay road user charges.

 

Actually? So the only reason I had to change the cluster in the other cars was the speedo. The letter from the mechanic was just to explain why the od reading is way off???

2 hours ago, Roman said:

Pretty sure LEDs adjust brightness by rather than adjusting voltage, using PWM to adjust current through to it.

As they dont work at too low a voltage and too high they blow up.

It might be that there's no on/off voltage but its just the PWM is so low that its "off" when its off

Just a thought

Could make a small recertifier circuit to smooth out the pwm 

Odometer question:

i understand you need an odometer, but wonder what the rules are?

ive had a car where it broke, had to change the cluster and get a mechanic to write out a thing for it.

if I was to use a motor cycle one what would I need to do?

changing gearbox Witch means changing from mech cable to electronic. Was thinking of feeding it to the link ecu then feeding a motorcycle cluster from the ecu using pwm outputs. And set it up on the bench to get it to read the same as the factory one?

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/rFngrF84

Someone just told me they changed to rules on welded coil overs for fixed spindals?

and that the weld needs to be above 1.5x the tube diameter??

is this correct?

3Y is rear sump. Want me to get some photos to see if their the same?

I’ve got a 3Y motor sitting here if the pick up and sump are the same? Might be good parts to mess around with to save yours should I not work out??

Nah agreed! I just don’t have that kind of money atm and have most of the gear to do it.

ive already got load of DP40 and 2K Black so would only need to get stuff for inside the rail. That and being a 4wd I don’t care to much what it looks like so will just spray outside on the lawn on a sunny day haha

2 hours ago, tortron said:

Not Gona lie, sounds worth it because it's a dirty job 

A lot of labour in that quote. I’ve got a sand blasting gun and paint guns so will do it my self and put up how long it takes and material costs

Yeah nah

Sorted the loom out for all the sensors, coils and injections.

really liking the fuel rail cable support!

starting on power harness witch is a bit more tricky without it being in the hole.

going to move the battery to the intake side. Witch should also free up room on the turbo side. Try find a large OEM filter box that fits in there nicely.

maybe something off a later model 4wd with snorkel and large panel filter

Injectors and rail in

clutch back on

welded a nut to some plate to check the clutch is disengaging and it’s all working mint! So stoked with that

need to change one of a heater hard lines.

Then spend some time doing the loom and changing injection plugs

Spent some time unbolting things.

plan is to remove the tray, then the cab and strip everything off the chassis.

my idea is to get two massive saw horses either side of the cab. Jack the cab up and slide some 6x2’s between the two. Then roll the frame out still on its wheels.

bit of a major so if anyone has any other ideas let me know.