Ashkellybarr
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Posts posted by Ashkellybarr
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Friend had this happen to a fresh built SR he had. Turned out the exhaust cam was off by a tooth so cyl press was building for to long until the valves opened.
might not be the issue having two banks but is easy to check
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Seen a lot of 70’s and 80’s pickups with serious suspension setups. Just about every small town has a 4wd workshop. All with proper gas shocks and tube shock mounts. Most are 35-40”s
unfortunately I’ve been to on the go to get decent photos but hopefully get some free time to get some proper ones soon
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Happy as! Stripped the diffs and epoxisprayed them.
had the bottom U bolt plates acid dipped them epoxi sprayed them too.
installed all the new suspension, greaseable shackles and bolts, adjustable drop steering arm and torque arm
just need bump stops, and steering rod rack ends.
and get some sanding wheels for the drill to take out the build up in the shackle mount tubes
thinking with the Honda engine exhaust being on the drivers side I might as well do the fuel and break lines now and swap them to the other side
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I’m running a small alloy tray witch weighs nothing and at most will have a gearbox or engine on it. That the arms always been bent and never worked so I’ll just delete it if I can
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Recommendations for 1.2 or 1.4 gravity feed guns under $100?
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23 minutes ago, kyteler said:
Why not paint it a pearlescent white, that way all your American muscle cars will be red, white and blue.
I concur
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Was talking to my painter mate about the new Mazda reds.
he said the water base is pretty much pink metallic and the clear then has a tint to give it the vibrance.
definitly a cool colour!
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Picked up some acid etch.
$58 for a 2L kit. Sprays super thin.
was hot today so just started with light coat from front to rear, then straight back to front again and kept doing that till it was all used up. Left it looking pretty blinging!
started on the 2K black where the gun packed up. Only spraying like an air brush it took hours to get one coat. Then the needle seal gave out and started spraying paint out the top of the trigger covering me. Continued on as I was already to far gone. Had about 80% done where it then decided to work properly, did a couple strokes and let off the trigger and it stayed on full tit so I just kept going and did a whole pot in one go without the trigger coming unstuck. What a fucking disaster! Least it’s had a full coat. And my mate that’s an actual car painter said he’ll head over and sort it for me haha fuck my life
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Also.
acid dipping ended up being 250 cash as it was 150mm to long for the tank so had to sit for some days then swap ends for a couple more.
hot galv was 316.25 all up inc gst
so $566.25 all up for the full treatment. That’s with me removing everything my self.
not bad considering most coatings places wanted around 2K and that’s just a sand blast and spray 2K under seal. Where the sand blaster can’t reach they just spray cav wax, not actually removing and rust that’s formed.
in saying that, it’s a lot of work to fully strip a chassis, but for a 4WD that gets driven through salt water it’s justified. Galv has formed well inside the chassis rails so I’m pretty happy with it
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McGregor motor sport do kseries mounts and bellhousing for lotus 7’s
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10 hours ago, vk327 said:
I done the concrete myself, im on swampy ground so has 5x 3.6m piles concreted in under the center area with a 200mm thickening and 200 thick ring beam footing around the edge of the pad, was almost 4 cube of concrete which worked out about $900, hoist is a motorex base model $2100 delivered,
So far been mint just keep it lubed well with spray grease, made a weather cover for the hydraulic pack and is all good
Nice work! Cheers
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Hoist question, I’m wanting to put one at mine but would need to be outdoor on slab like yours.
what did it cost you? You get a company to do all of it and sign it off?
dose the hoist need a cover or is it fine outside?
cheers
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On 07/11/2019 at 18:52, MaxPower said:
had to google k24 engine rotation.. nice work.
Cheers! Guys on an off-road forum said there was a guy in Invercargill that put a b18 into a MU, went to all the effort only to find he had 5 rev gears and 1 very very short fwd gear.
joke was “their all a bit backwards down there”
someone said he swapped the diff centres around and it was sorted.
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Put the bypass after intercooler
dont over spin, just run what he has and use the control to help with load down knock.
didnt know the sc14 ran a stepper motor either
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2 hours ago, Roman said:
If you gear the supercharger for millions of boost in midrange with the plan of bleeding the air out, you'll potentially be at risk of overspeeding the supercharger by high rpm. Then from what I hear they melt the telfon linings off the rotors then things get worse from there.
Also you're heating the air twice or thrice by recirculating it, which not only means hotter air at the outlet but less cooling from incoming air through the charger to keep it a little cooler I guess.
I'd be more inclined to just ditch that hot air and get more through.
Yeah can find the rpm specs online for them.
good point about the heat though.
if the charger was recirculating on it self and not causing pressure in the intake would it still create a lot of heat though?
I was more thinking about lowering pressure at low rpm to help with his high comp issue...?
Romans COD piece
in Project Discussion
Posted
The APS that came with me K24 is a box that sits in the engine bay being feed from a normal cable pedal. Means you can put the box anywhere and just get a cable to suit