Ashkellybarr

Hey OS team

helping a mate get his LS1 swap 

using link g4 in non LS chassis.

its 95% done and ready to go but there’s a couple things I’m struggling to get info for.

1. alternator wiring. Google comes up with loads of yanks using truck alternators with different wiring.

it’s a two wire from early 2000’s como so I’m assuming one wire just needs a resistor and switched off ign?

2. Injector info, found the injectors are standard ls1 bosch 0 280 155 931 but can’t find dead time info, most US posts guys use random info from bosch part numbers that are similar but not to that specific number. However we’re wanting to setup modeled fuel pretty accurately

3. T56 reverse lock out. Safe to say the lock out is NO without 12v applied?

plan to run GPO 12v over defined RPM until we get ABS wired in. But if NO I can get it running and on and off a trailer until I can get the plug and wire it in

cheers

Cheers but I’ll be Plastering and sanding 

There’s a Honda tool on Ali express that can be made to work. Bolts where the cam

caps go.

been told a small amount of compressed air down the spark plug hole will help hold the values in with the head on too

19 hours ago, cletus said:

New mount has to span the height of the rail so that can either be a new bracket the same height, or you can weld a plate on and build a mount off that 

Cheers. Will pass this onto fabricator

These different depth mount holes are a real pain in the ass

ye old battery lathe saved the day

What’s the go with welding a plate to the chassis rail as a base to build an engine mount off?

whats the guide lines for size and if it maybe must have a fold around the rail so it’s not just welded on one face?

i had a look under engine conversion and suspension systems sections but couldnt find anything about the chassis mounts.

Factory location On the chassis is to far forward and needs to be removed to clear thermostat and moved PS pump.

can see motor mount location in yellow

i would be happy with something bolt on but there’s no holes for access inside the frame. So for that I would guess I’d need to drill right through and add crush tubes anyway?

edit: sorted. 

As I thought I ended up moving the whole lot forward 35mm witch meant modding the gearbox x member.
Might still need the “massage” the firewall for the Ktune coolant neck off the back of the head but nothing to bad. I’ll haft to cut and weld a kink in the shift leavers as the Gear shifter already sat far to close to the head unit.

mount will sit a couple mm lower too but worse case I’ll just put some body-chassis spacers in

Awesome work

Good visual of height, if I had 35’s I could probably just roll the motor and box straight  under the frame.

cant wait to get a photo with the turbo on :)

Can see here how much higher it is after the 4.5” lift.

leafs will still settle down a bit after more gets bolted on/in. But with 1” body lift and 35” tires it’ll sit another 3” taller plus the roof basket

Some of the boys came round to help lift the body back on today.
Put all the new bushes on the chassis then used threaded rod to help line it up, boys lifted and the girls pulled the planks out, easy down and it was on!

Need to get the cab back on before winter kicks in. Picked up a new bush kit.

Had my query’s as the crush tube is thin and the big washers only aloe for from an M8 witch I though was a bit on the small side.

The thinner crush tubes allow for an M12 witch was better but after talking to one of the engineers at work he said the crush tubes to thin for the torque setting of an M12.

So I found some thicker crush tubes laying around work and got some longer M10 cap screws witch I think will work better. Cap screws being tensile too 

Also made some spacers out of 100m UHMWPE off cuts too witch should help with gearbox and bellhousing clearance

Here’s the timing chain one 

https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-oil-pump-baffle

theres some other “drop in” baffles but think I could just reengineer them my self for less.

Skip to 4.10 so you don’t need to listen to this turkey but they did a common drop in brand and still had huge issues.

https://youtu.be/7GMUaje9G34

On 22/04/2020 at 21:46, Hyperblade said:

Yep, oiling is a big issue on the K20a made even worse when you turn them around as under braking all the oil goes up the cam chain area, I have a plan for that though.

I have seen the bolt in kit (maybe K miata or a lesser known brand) witch bolts to the oil pump to baffle this. Think I would still prefer something that’s sealed around the sump instead.

cant remember if it’s left or right turns but there’s some guys in the states on utube with a s14 that had huge issues turning one way on the track. Looked into it more and found a couple others saying the same thing.

that and their a tall motor with such a huge head on them so clearance is a factor too limiting sump mods

Good stuff 

i take it you stayed 2L and not 2.4 for class restrictions?

ill be keen to see what you do for the sump setup as I’ve seen a lot of videos where people have pressure drops on long corners and need to look at this my self

2 hours ago, Fayray said:

Lancia Fulvia coupe

Excuse my ignorance! haha was definitely a cool little car though!

Te atatu

On 28/02/2020 at 09:09, jessemk2 said:

Look more like 33/35" silverstones

Yeah do look more like them actually. Don’t think their 33’s though, I’ve got 33’s here and their not that tall

On 19/02/2020 at 06:09, ButtersNZ said:

Wish I still had mine So tiny inside that my knees would turn on the indicators all the time. People loved it though. Owned it in Hamilton in the early 2000's, white.

Mate I don’t think I could even get in one haha that’s my miss’ to the right and she’s 5’ nothing

Yeah fair enough