Ashkellybarr

Saw you at round two. That was freken awesome man!!

As per Kyteler, if you have more important things to save for then save for them. That's why some car builds take years, life gets in the way.

Without life, there would be no car.

Save a little when you can and put it aside for your car. Browse trademe, look for deals wherever you can, learn skills, talk to people who have experience and remember that there is no rush.

I a agree. Sit on trademe as stuff comes up. face books pretty good to as loads of younger guys that don't want to pay auction fees use that so there's fast parts turn over of some popular pages

It wouldn't be easy (nor to hard) but If I were you I'd put a 2GR it and run the standard ECU and loom.

Would require a bell housing, mounts, and custom fly wheel and custom exhaust (possible headers too) so would probably be more of a 5k budget with some help

Reliable but with nearly 300hp and loads of torque it's a good lump

Alloy block and heads so it weighs the same or less then most 4 bangers

Being v6 instead of straight 6 the weights not so far fwd balance wise

Then there's some good after market stuff coming out for them now, ITB and cam kits etc, so you could open it up later down the track

Dear I say it 3K not a huge budget sorry man.

A 3S from an alteza would be a sweet if mounts and gear box match up is easy.

Then maybe +T with an OEM ECU and loom.

But manifold and exhaust would then eat into you budget a bit

Sounds like you need new mates...

I agree

Mold for the ma61 flares are done so I can start pumping out guards witch is good

Had some trouble with my rear struts.

They had ceased between the main thread and the strut base that mounts to the hub so I couldn't adjust ride height.

Had to pull them out, managed to get them to move with some brute force witch was very lucky!!

Took everything completely off the thread (lock rings and base) and cleaned it up then hit the whole thing with this stuff called TAC-2. Comes in a CNC spray can

I used it on my rear tie rods when I did them (even though their stainless they still cease)

Pretty good stuff, chain lube but it's water resistant so is good for adjustable arms etc that see weather.

Finished refurbishing the rear bumper iron from rust and its threads, clips, nuts.

So that's ready to go back on

Managed to have a good clean out of the garage and car so it's looking pretty good to start get it road going again.

Sorry for low qul photos, off my phone in crapy light

Also picked up a new motor for the next project

You can see it next to my shelving

Mild for the ma61 flares are done so I can start pumping out guards witch is good

Had some trouble with my rear struts.

They had ceased between the main thread and the strut base that mounts to the hub so I couldn't adjust ride height.

Had to pull them out, managed to get them to move with some brute force witch was very lucky!!

Took everything completely off the thread (lock rings and base) and cleared it up then hit the whole thing with this stuff call TAC-2.

I used it on my rear tie rods when I did them (even though their stainless they still cease)

Pretty good stuff, chain lube but it's water resistant so is good for adjustable arm etc they see weather.

Finished refurbishing the rear bumper iron and threads, clips, nuts on it so that's ready to go back on.

Managed to have a good clean out of the garage and car so it's looking pretty good to start get it road going again.

Sorry for low qul photos, off my phone in crapy light

Lol it looks like a toy someone's holding it up

Haha yeah it does! Nah it's just my reflection.

Yurp at motat haha

Any one guess where this was??

I flicked him a message on FB and he just needs an old flywheel for the ring gear

 

He also made a custom clutch for my 7a with e series

Stage one exedy pressure plate with carbon Kevlar plate for a little over 400

I'm yet to swap it but it's been made pretty well

Ok so supposing there is a COC for the wiring in my garage, is it detailed plan of what was done at the time?

What does a COC actually say?

It's as detailed as the sparky wants it to be. If they wrote fuck all then shame on them.

If it's not to old and all when the house was built then it will have wiring diagrams.

It will always have how many outlets and how many light fittings so adding stuff is near impossible.

Insurance takes it as the home owner hast to do their home work on the house.

If it looks dodgy then it's up to the home owner to get a registered guy to come look at it.

A lot of people have been caught out, how ever if the wiring and fitting pre-date you moving in then you can't be held accountable

This is not to say you should use old fittings and cable, I highly highly don't recommend that

If it's a retail and it's not found to be soft wiring then it's the land lord and insurance will pay the tenant

In saying all this, most fire investigators are fucking useless and love to blame it on cheap Chinese multi boxes or cellphone chargers as their easy to blame.

I know this first hand..

I'm a registered sparky and can clear up some things if you like.

Fell free to give me a message.

In short in my understanding.

you can not add onto a circuit (ie put another light on an existing circuit)

-as this would change the loading of the circuit-

You can not change any existing "hard wiring"

However,

If a fitting is broken (eg your bayonet light fitting) you can, so long as.. It is a direct replacement and follows the same manufacturers wiring directions as the existing fitting.

Problem is they change the rules every 4-6 months so even most sparkys a aren't up with the play unless their one man bands or go to all the ewrb meetings

Best thing would be to just call EWRB (electrical workers registration board) and just say "hey I'm a sparky and have come to a job where the home owners done some work and and want to clarify something's in case I need to go over them or change anything" and then tell them your scenario.

Talk to Barry Manon at MRP. He's making a custom fly for me for a little more then 700.

Can't remember what I needed don't but he said if I took it in or sent measurements he could get anything made up, so he not just limited to Corolla stuff

Had a gander at caffeine and classics.

Wheels look sharp man!

Hung around for a yarn but couldn't see ya

ClubAW was awesome. 

 

I take it from that last post that you're keeping the standard viscous LSD rather than going for a plate type or torsen type unit?

I know! I'm gutted i missed out on that forum and club.

That and all the juicy pages are missing!

Yeah I've got 3 e58's sitting here.

One of witch I picked up for $80

So I'll pull them apart, add a new 2nd and 3rd synchro and bearings and leave it at that.

Barry Manon said I'll shread them running huge power so if that happens I'll rebuild the 51 with a kazz

Picked up a set of sw20 E series axels pretty cheap from a bloke in Cambridge that was building a 3sgte corona

Reason being that with the e58 I'll need a ae101 left and a sw20 right side.

The axels aren't from an LSD model though so they might need a bit modding

The LSD axels have a slightly longer spline going into the gear box on the drivers side.

This I'm told is to hold into a plate inside the diff, and if I used a non LSD axel in an LSD box it wouldn't be held by the plate so no LSD function gets used.

How ever, I'm told by very reliable bloke, and this surprised me, he just uses an angle grinder to cut the spline longer anouther 5mm and puts it ons lathe to take the seal seat back 5mm and it's good to go.

I'm told it's cold forged so wouldn't be easy on a lathe but if it's like the selector shaft once I grind threw 2-3mm it should be soft as butter and could tidy up the seal surface on a later then

Now, why don't I just buy some LSD axels???

Because you can't.

No one wants to sell them and guys that are selling them in the states are selling them for +$850

Custom billit ones are 1100

I picked these up complete with CV's and stubs for 150

Winning

Sat 19/12/15 the tron

On my to Cambridge to pick up some parts

Cropped and chopped

Have HD copy if owner wants

Saw a shinny red one an hour or so later too

Moulds taking shape. Had quite a bit of interest of fibreglass p-type copy's to.

Got a couple air bubbles between the glass and gel coat so I'll haft to sort that out before I add chop.

This is because it I don't get a good bond Bowen the gel coat and glass what I pull the negative off the gel coal might stick to the guard and not the glass causing holes in the mold.

Bit of a hold up as I was hoping to get it all done this weekend but will make sure I get it good so I can pull loads of copy's

As to swopping ST into BT. The looms are different and ECU's are different.

If you swopped it as a long block it should be fine as BT ECU and sensors will still all work.

Knock sensor will probably be in a different location.

I'd do the rings and valves seals if it were me.

Go genuine Toyota stuff as its all laser cut and pretty good for not a huge amount more.

While the heads off tidy up some cast marks with a demal.

Then put the head back on with a TRD 0.8 head gasket (their not much more then the standard 1.2)

I bought an MA61 while I was there, it was by no means rare or hard to find.

Toymods is a very well run club/forum with quite high standards, I have an account and could post on your behalf if you want?

Cheers for the offer but I think I've found some already

I'll definitely be checking out toymods though!

Clearance might be sorted curtesy of _david_

Are you replacing some flares or are you looking to attach them to your non P-type guards.

There is a difference in the actual shape of each type of guard.

 

PM me with a contact number and I will call you.

Their not for a MA61 mate, going on anouther car but cheers for the heads up

i'll buy a pair off you once you have a mould, unfortunatly my left ones broken so wouldnt be any use to you

Brokens fine, it won't matter as if it's cracked I can use posacle sticks and silicone to hold it one one side while I take a mild from anouther.

If you have them off and I could borrow them for a couple weeks of happily make you some fibre glass ones to return the favour

Probably have more luck in Aussie. Try asking on toymods.

Yeah tried oldscooltoyota or what ever it is and he said best of luck haha

Are you talking about the flares or the guards themselves?The flares are known as "P-type" flares in the American market at least (and to a lot of people here too) They were to aid in covering the wider 14x7" alloys or the "Performance" version.

Cheers! Yup the flares

Hey guys I'm after after some front guards.

I'd like to buy some, con doesn't matter at all.

Now even if someone can lend me some so I can make fibre glass molds that would be awesome!

And they would return in mint con, with a box of beer and cash for going out of your way.

Or even some carbon copy's in return

Pic's the reference, front clip on guards.

I'm told they came of NZ new and as a jap option???

Any help would be much appreciated!!

Not sure if my oem plus rears will fit.

Trying to hunt down ma61 wide body front guards

Or someone that will let me make copy's

Tires, ssr wheel nuts, done

Anyway.. I'm rambling even more than usual now.

If ya leave ur skin too thin then add too much glass it will sag..be careful!

Haha nah all good. So you started an AW wide body?! Any photo's? You weren't on the old clubAW were you??

I really wanted to copy Audi rs4 2014 rear guards, their kind of a cross between a box guard and a flare.

Un-believably I couldn't find anyone willing to let me smother their new Audi in epoxi.

thoroughly disappointed!

Maybe next time...