Ashkellybarr

The factory GZE ECU already does switch it off at cruising, so you'll not gain much form that.

Buuuutttt there's an undeniable novelty factor of having a supercharger turn on with the flip of a switch, and I'm all for novelties

Shout out if you get stuck on something and need a hand, no spare parts though sadly!

Yeah true but like you say.. Novelty factory haha

That and I bridged the solenoid in the AW and the response with the throttle was awesome!

I wish I could have fun with cars again but I have zero left over after other responsibilities.

One day..

 

We seem to have very similar tastes in vehicles!

Ah right! Yeah I'm trying to make the most of it while I can haha

4AG(Z)E swap is just toooooooo easy in a Carina, great option!

 

Already A series cross member/mounts, already a T50, already hydraulic clutch, already an A series bellhousing, already T series diff etc etc. Way easier than AE85 > AE86 as half of the stuff is already there.

All signs point to 4AGZE being an awesome option

4AG(Z)E swap is just toooooooo easy in a Carina, great option!

Cheers! Nice to get some love haha

Since I won't be retaining AC either I can wire the SC clutch up to the AC switch too and change the A to a S haha

Want to keep it road friendly and good for road trips so will help on gas when we're not giving it some

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52438-ashs-catarina-the-carina/Bro.Was the name Carina not girly enough? Having to add "ta" at the start is odd.Also.Pics.

Haters gonna hate haha

Argh, this makes me question my tactic of spend all money on house/mortgage even more than just the adub.

?? Me spending my money or you on yours?

Took it to beach hop, runs well

3A definitely didn't cut it up the hills.

More I drive it the more I want to keep it oldschool, thinking how I can get the 4agze in there and keep it looking factory..

Picked up a AA60 coupe.

Girl friend promptly named it something girly ha

It's pretty dam tidy with very little rust.

I made s point of pulling plait off to feel around and it's pretty sweet.

Motor runs mint, clutch would have been done not long ago, interia all there and good con, coupe little strainers here and there.

Full digital dash

3A

T50 (22 spline I'm told)

Small axel

One very open diff

And a truck ton of body roll.

Will be left standard for a while.

Plans of SSR mk3's

New fixed shock and spring combo all round to get it low and stiff

Lock diff or LSD

And swap the 4agze out of my aw11 into it once the 7A finally goes in

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52439-ashs-a6-carina-coupe-lyfe/

I saw that combi too! Wasn't fast enough to get a photo haha

Saw this in mint con! Factory turbo galant at the supermarket

Past weeks

Taka

I wrote some code to read all the sensor data from slacker.cams Link G4, and converted it all to ELM327 so you can display it all on Torque or something else on your tablet. That way you can use a tablet as your gauges and change stuff around and set warning lights etc real easy.It's by no means finished, but it rans cam race car dash for a season without TOOO many failures :PUsed it as a stand alone thing in Daves 626 a few weeks ago to read sensors and output to the tablet to check wideband 02 in the car.Happy to share the shit i have if you know your way around a microcontroller

This sounds awesome man!

^ sounds pretty good Ned! Its where Link are lacking a bit, sure they have the LCD screen you could buy but using a tablet etc would be more popular.  From what I hear they support the windows tablets but not Android/Ipad.

Yeah that what I figure. Why pay +1000 for a pidly lcd screen when you can spend less and have a bigger full colour screen that can be touch screen to flick through the guages and data log pages.

Possibly even incorporate a lap timer onto the screen

With the Link anything that has an input/output can be logged - you wont miss out on info if you just roll around with the laptop connected.  You could look at upgrading the G3 to run on the G4 firmware as its a relatively cheap upgrade and among other things the datalogging is considerably better. Ive setup fuel pressure and oil pressure into my Link (G4+) and its all on screen either via laptop logging or via internal ecu logging for download later.

I did wonder about this.

Ecu's already got good maps but I don't see why I couldn't copy them then update to G4 and copy them in.

As far as I'm aware there's some things that won't move over so would still need to set some things.

I'll plug it in and see how many inputs I've got free.

It's looking like I'll get a tablet with windows on it and load up nothing but the link software to save on space/processing, and maybe save some background things onto a USB and leave the tablet in permanently.

or something like this,

Best thing is you can data log it aswell.

http://www.14point7.com/products/idash

Seems cool but after getting all the sensors it'll add up to around 500.

I know that's not much but it's 500 that could go else where

Might be able to pick up a second hand display and logger for the link for that price

Yeah I'd love to be able to data log.

I'll look into that!

With the link I don't think just leaving a laptop plugged in while zooming around actually logs everything.

Think they made it so you haft to buy the display

So I've been looking into getting a tablet to be able to cycle through my gauges to see what my motors upto.

Mainly cause I don't want a bucket load of guages and have my car looking like its out of 2fast2furious.

So I've been looking into an independent system using said screen....

http://www.mindkits.co.nz/store/p/7149-Serial-Graphic-LCD-128x64.aspx

How ever, this would require me..

1 buying and installing more sensors, trying to get graphs for these sensors to then do the coding for the read outs.

2 Doing coding

3 Another loom

So I've now been looking into a read out through the link G3.

The best option I've seen is to leave a laptop plugged in.

A small tablet with windows and USB could do this easy.

Now for the next hurdle,

I need it read what it needs to run plus more.

This being...

Oil pressure

Oil temp

Water temp

Water temp for the intercooler

I feel as though I won't have enough input on the ECU to do this though??

Any input/thoughts/info would be much appreciated

Is friend went to a marine expo in witch he found a company that got given a task from a boat team. They needed a knife that their guys could wear on them, could cut through any top with ease and be light.

They 3D printed the knifes from some sort of metal, they were sharp from the get go (sharp edge was printed) and it came with a printed sheath they could wear as a necklace. And while thing weighed not much more then I lighter.

Can be done, time vs effort vs materials

It's seeming more like wood molds CNC'd would seem like less hassle but it's still costly

I'll see what else comes up

looks like a reliant scimitar.....

Yup it is. David just confirmed it.

Has Union Jack on the roof and orig paint

Fucks knows what this is.

3L coupe

Pulled and done. Gotta build up the sides now.

Reason I didn't tape cardboard onto the bonnet before making the mild is I've done that before and it lecked under, then when I tried to pull it there was to much of a lip and it cracked the mold.

I've started masking it up and I'll go around the build up the edges.

Being such a flat panel it's got quite a bit of flex so I'll flip it over and sit it back on the plug and fix some tiber to the back of it.

For that ive picked up some 10mmx60mm stuff you use for the finishing of the bottom of walls

So after talking to a friend who said to look up ABS, I was onto it.

ABS polyma plastic can be moulded straight off so there's no need for release agents.

And...it can be 3D printed! BINGO!

The problem you guys mentioned about the surface now seems to be the biggest issue

I'll look into the chem sealing, maybe painting or sponging it on could be the easiest way around deforming the shape...

I'd haft to get some and play around

As for the size/time I was thinking maybe make them as panels that could be glued to ply wood like a jig saw puzzle, then a release wax simply smeared down the seams of where they meet.

I'm hanging out for the day when there's no parts stores or shipping, you simply buy the data for the part and take it to your local printer and print it out in the specified material.

Imagine printing a ball joint in one hit, rubber and grease in all

So getting frustrated with mold making and prep work I've been looking into an idea for getting tricky parts made out of carbon.

The main thing I've tried doing in the past that has always been an epic fail, waste of materials, and in turn money is making new things from scratch

I want to use a bonnet scoop as and example for the convo, say.. Caldina GTT scoop

To make a part like this your self from scratch is exceedingly hard, multiple materials are needed to form this, say foam cut to a shape, then fibre glass over that, then hours of fringing, sanding, filling and re glossing to get it perfect only to find its not symmetrical and you haft through it out.

So I thought, why not draw it up in cad or solid works and print it out, then you can pull a mold from that.

Then better again if you have the image of the plug, why not just print a mold??

Now here's the thing I'm interested in.. I've not done much 3D printing but from what I have read.

The way the plastic is printed makes it sort of pouris, meaning a lot of prep is needed, possible gel coat and then multiple release wax applications.

We know epoxi can't bond to some plastics, so would there be a way to print a mold that wouldn't need any realease agents??

Would simply going over it with a heat gun to melt the surface be enough?

Or could you tread the plastic some how??

Final chop is done on the bonnet so it'll be ready to flip tomorrow

Before I pull the plug I'm gonna give the hang over a good smooth coat of gel coat so I if I choose the do a vacuumed form carbon one I have something to seal to.

There molds better then I thought.

Will be picking up the other on off face some time this week to get started on that

have been keeping an eye on this. Awesome work man! Can't wait to see it in paint

More progress on the carbon and fibre glass panels too.

Mold for the MA61 front guards turn out to be more of a mosh then I thought, having to brake away the over hang off on purpose to crack the seal between them.

I'll try build up the sides again and touch up the gell coat but it's a lot more rough then I would like.

That and the already flaky paint on the panel has come off.. Bugger

Gonna need a flat jack.

And to do something about them pesky rear guards

Achilles 123S 195/45/R15 front

Toyo T1R 235/50/R15 rear

Would have liked 205/45 on the front but I got the Achilles for 125 so I couldn't say no.

Might actually get this bad boy back on the ground.

Have the next 11 days off do I'll be able to get some good hours into it and finish up all the little side quests