Ashkellybarr
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Posts posted by Ashkellybarr
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Since the car is pretty much a daily driven ute I thought I'd make life a little easier.
6x9's make for a good sound system on long trips but moving wheels/engines and other crap is a pain in the ass.
Thought I'd keep it OG with the White and red plugs. Sorced from jaycar they didn't break the bank and make every day useage miles easier.
Other thing that's been bugging me is the hideous repco wing mirrors someone put on.
Prefacelift mirrors are ok I guess, big improvement over repco jobies.
Just running drivers side.
Big ups to the bloke who drilled holes in my doors for no reason
Spring thinger retainer clip thingy had come off on both mirrors of donor car, nor did they want to go back on.
Stopped by steel masters and picked up a bolt long enough with an 8mm shank.
Had to cut the head down to clear mounting bracket.
And I welded the nut on for good measure. Was pretty fiddly pulling apart and getting back together so want to avoid doing that again
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Hey shouldnt that mold be two piece? Im sure ya have figured this out already haha
Nah, just going to make it 2ply then crack it, leave it in and then add strength layers.
Far more time effective and won't need to sand then polish the mould seam.
The neck gets progressively smaller.
For the silicone joiner I'll add a strip or two of carbon to the end on the outside, then sand and paint a layer of epoxy onto to smooth it out and make a good sealing surface.
Same as I did for the fibre glass flanges I made for my aw11
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Moulds getting there, little more to do still. Haft to touch up the gel coat where I got s bubble between the gel and glass. I little support to do and maybe a base so it sits flat.
Went to a mates and started sand blasting some OG wheels I picked up.
Finally picked up a drivers side window mount mirror so can pull thoughts hidious rep I things off!!
Cars got fender mirror door on passenger side so I can probably just run drivers side and if get hit up I'll just say it's factory like that
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Nice work on the gearboxes.
Watching with interest
Cheers guys! Should have another update with a MX5 NB parts inclusive next
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Heads back from Taylor's, labeled, hot tub'd
Picked up a new carbide bit witch eats threw alloy like butter.
Couldn't help my self with head.
Took the Orange peal off the chambers
Casting mark behind seats
Ex port out and polished
All the casting marks up top to reduce build up areas.
I'll polish up the ex ports and drop it back at Taylor for assembly with the new parts next week then hopefully get this bloody short block off to tony marsh- 1
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Under seal time! Ooh the fun..
Jumped in the small fours garage for a couple days to smash it out.
Dropped the fuel tank etc, just the tunnel to do but I can do that went I swap the box later on.
Picked up a mx5 asin AZ6 as well for more of the research project
Mold for the intake plenums getting a push with some demand from other people
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up, sorted photo link thingers out
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~{j160 experditions part 2}~
s15-altezza differences..
first off the cases are completely different. sort of
cases aren't interchangeable
the structures are different externally
the shifter shafts are the same length how ever the j160 shaft comes out of the case and has a separate bracket the shifter mounts to
the s15 box the selector shaft is inside the case and the shifter mount mounts to the case and the bottom of the shifter from the ball down sits in the case
the structure inside is actually the same
breather location and splash plate are identical
and also the plastic locator in the end of the input shaft
the output splines are different sizes and spline counts well
we can see there the s15 output shaft is 1 and 1/8 of a hammer long
and that the j160 output shaft is 5/8's of a hammer long
now the similarity's...
the selector shafts are exactly the same
only difference being the things that those location ball bearing things sit in.
this will be due to the different cases and possibly from car manufacture selector feel preferences???
now the big question.. are the gears interchangeable??
the inside of the cases being the same, the selector setup being nearly identical, cheaper to manufacture them the same, 1-5 being identical ratio's it would seem the gear set is exactly the same
the shaft for the output gears measures the same and has the same spline count so those are interchangeable, I'm yet to pull the syncro's off the input gears so cant confirm 100% but externally they are exsactly the same so I can only assume they are.
so.. they can be interchangeable
bad part, output gear is press off only. so to do that its gear box apart, completely
however it does mean its a good excuse to do the thrust washer mod
I'm yet to pull the front housing apart but from so far id say its fair to think the gear sets are in them are interchangeable
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B. continued
alright so theres some mounts that shifter base can swap onto, their even tapped out already
gold bolts are original, mount sitting in other..
you cant see it but theres allowance on the bottom mount as well
im unsure if this is maybe
because the rear case is the same on the nissan or MX5 maybe??
maybe their shift mounts can swap over??
any who, we can see this would move the whole mount and shifter forward 53mm
sooooo, can the shift mount move forward on the shaft??
indead it can, how ever, the case gets in the way 28mm of it going into 2nd-4th-6th
photo of mount on shaft in 4th in standard postion
so we need to cut the case down, not to hard
lets look at what's inside..
seal and bearing as expected
we can see the bearing floats in a stainless sleave
looking inside toward the back we can see a bit of meat, around 20mm or so
can also see the ball bearing shift locker (10mm ellen key next to shifter)
so, if we pull the bearing sleeve out, mill that down further so the sleeve sits further inside the box
and instead of putting that one back in, put one out of a C series box that doesn't slide backwards and forwards to save space (some MR2 guys run fwd-rwd converted boxes with no bearings) and then resessed the seal up against that we would in fact gain 32-35mm witch would be enough to move the mount on the shaft forward and clear the gears on the down stroke where the shaft gets pushed forward
last piece of this puzzle is mounting the mount forward on the shaft.
shafts are nitrated hardened steel
when I made a selector shaft to convert an E58 to rwd (or rear mount), I simply used and angle grinder to grind a 4x4mm patch threw the top 3mm of steel
after 4mm the steels soft as butter and easy to drill and tap
just haft to be careful to remove as little of the hardened outer as possible
so we'll see how it goes but the should put the shifter forward 53mm
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ok so I still haven't figured out how to link nice photos cause I suck with computers but want to use links to spread it out as a pose to "add photo" so if some one could explain or fix it that would be awesome
B.
so removing 6th gear set
14 bolts
1 split pin
3 C clips
1 snap ring thinger
removing case:
pull the rear case off all you need is a 12mm-extention, hole punch, 10mm ellen key, and 19mm socket
bolts for the rear case and shifter mount are all 12mm and all the same length (cheers ASIN) so can go back where ever and you not having to use egg cartons and lable them all
theres two shift location lockers you need to remove/loosen
ones the 10mm ellen key next to the shifter RHS (is basically a plug with spring under it to push the down)
others 19mm half way down the rear case LHS (this was tight as hell, I nearly rounded it off, not a bolt that can be bought off the shelf so be careful)
these are basically sprung ball bearings that sit in grooves and hold the shaft arms in position and maintain shifter position while changing gears
once the 4 bolts for the shift brace/mount are undone it'll pull straight off
the mount on the shaft has one 12mm bolt and a split pin, think I used a #4 Ellen key and hammer to tap it out
after that it slides straight off
couple taps with a mallet and wedging a screw driver off it pops and up it slides
there's two previsions for screw driver wedging on either side for maximum wedgness
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~{J160 expeditions - part 1}~
a. random blabbering
b. 6th gear and shift location
A:
alrightie, so I have a J160 and want to run it in the rina
couple things have come up with regards to the box but also staying A series motor
first is ill be using the SQ engineering adaptor
http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/4age-to-j160-gearbox-adapter-kit.html
positives are,
-I can sell my A series bell housing to help fund it (leen reuses it)
-my aw11 has a 225mm clutch kit and flywheel, the altezza uses a 225mm clutch so I can run a 225mm kit (225 doesn't clear the housing in T40/50),
not hugely important but it means both cars will run the exact same MRP flywheel, carbon kev plate and rated pres plate
second is this 6th gear from a Nissan S15 everyone has been talking about
for those not familiar, the boxs are both asin AZ6 that have then been sold to Nissan and Toyota (and others) so it would make sence the parts swap between them
reason being that the Nissan 6th gear would make the yota 6th longer, better highway mileage, lower revs on motor over long distances etc etc
ive been lucky enough to pick up a s15 6sp dirt cheap so ill be dissecting that and documenting it up against the j160, and all importantly seeing if the 6th gearset can swap onto the yota shafts
third is the strength, now the ASIN AZ6 is said to be very strong, but most reports show after 220nm or more theres a chance to kick thrust washers out on 3rd and 4th
all is explained and resolved in this link. the link is however for the nissan 6sp so if the Nissan shafts and Toyota shafts in my 2 boxes match up then we can all do the same mod to the j160, where reports of 500nm reliability is being said by Nissan guys
https://neatgearboxes.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/nissan-silvia-s15-6-speed-gearbox-circlip-mod/
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Yeah mate had the same thing as your mate in the ute. Track widths weren't the same.
Cops just took pictures of random old marks as their evidence.
Cop didn't even see him do anything and with no investigation impounded his car.
What happened to innocent until proven guilty??
Best of luck on sentencing man.
If you get the same crappy judge just take some peanut butter and sea food chowder and say you shat your pants due to food poisoning and hurl a mouth full of the chowder on the floor, I'm sure the case would get postponed and you could get a different judge
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Get disclosure and see what it says.
As far as I'm aware you haft to "sustain loss" for "5 seconds or more" for it to be deemed intent
Anything under 5 can be claimed as accidental driver fault
If there's not huge tracks or much rubber under the guards then I'd push for defence
Guilty plea straight off vs first hearing isn't much difference so dont stress about that
Judge will only slam you if you drag it out.
Here's a story
Friend picked up his partner in his RFB daily thing.
Cars certed and legal, WOF, reg everything
Random member of the public came out and ripped him a new one about doing skids on the road while he was waiting for her (he doesn't, at least not there)
Thinking he's a nutter told him to take a hike
Seems this bloke was pissed off with local young guys and saw a Nissan and went to take vengeance regardless of weather it was him.
Anyway
Bloke calls the police, says he did burnout in broad daylight. (He didn't and his' partners boss came as witness)
Police came round that night with a towy and impounded the car (no police on site on the incident)
Police took photos of some marks by his partners work as "evidence" but also photos of the tires on the car.
Mate picked up car from impound after 28 days
Mate got two mechanics reports both of witch said the marks and the tire tread weren't the same.
His partners boss came as witness to him not doing it.
Went to court, police looked like idiots and it all got dropped.
Mate had to pay
:$360 impound
:$lots for lawyer
:$ lost while time off work to go to court
: pissed off boss
All because some member of the public made a phone call and the police jump on a stupid skid law
So yeah you could get off it but it will cost you
Well done NZ justice system
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So I dunno what the previous owner did with the paint.
Guy did a good job at painting it I'll give him that but it seems like maybe he stuffed up the hardener mixture??
Every time I cleaned it the sponge ended up red from the paint and the paint had got so thin primer was showing in places.
I didn't want a Matt red car, nor dose glossy primer look to good either so met half way with Saturn clear coate.
Happy with the turn out, needs a attention to take the Orange peal out but it miles better and most importantly it's sealed from the sun and weather so won't get any worse.
Carbs are done and ready to go. Just need to sort throttle linkage and shorter trumpets/filters
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I've got some Cressida stuff coming out of my ke70 soon, should bolt into yours fine.
Done will PM
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"ATTTN roman I tried to PM you but you can't receive any new mail?? Inbox is full??
Hey dude I came across what looks like some old posts from you on toy mods??
I'm looking into doing a disk brake conversation on the rear and upgrading the front brakes to a vented disk and/or caliper off a cressda maybe??
I came across a post the was posted by a roman in west AKL and figured it was you?
Said a f series rear from a RA40 bolts straight into a a6??
And possibly an altrzza diff into said axel??
Did this work?"
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I have the perfect donor vehicle for a 4AGZE swap fyi
Cheers dude but I've already got a ZE in my other car.
Their might be some odds and ends I need but I'll grab thought as I need them
Ash's 82 AA60 rina of rustic glory
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
Preping for OS dag day haha