Ashkellybarr

Hey guys I'm pulling my axles out to change my diff.

got drivers side out with some motivation but passengers side won't budge.

ive used my DIY slide hammer, gone threw a can of penetrate freeze off, half a can MAP on my gas torch, continually bashed the shit out of it for over two hours now.

hands are fucked from shock of holding something while being hit and been hit so hard the TPS is now starting to tear

any tips or ideas??

Looks common to me, I've pulled quite a few looms apart recently so I'll check threw my plugs.

id search threw the injector though, Bosch style will have a common type plugs for multiple injector sizes

theres a load on Ali express super cheap that are the same ones most suppliers sell as new ones

edit: 

Good excuse to put a 10 banger in it

Won't be making it either as bed ridden with the flu

1 hour ago, Carsnz123 said:

you know I never knew that button was there.  

Neither, but now I do. Thanks for the friendly tip

Ooo snazzy

Couldn't fit the rubber cap with the offset of the cig lighter.

ill see if I can mod it to fit the original cig lighter head to look oem.

if your wondering why I'm pissing around with these little things it to keep me entertained while I wait for molar to roll in haha

2 hours ago, Seedy Al said:

Clint,

 

Whats the deal with chassis mods?

If I were to say, buy the back section of a chassis that is IRS, and stitch it to the rest of my chassis in my Crown wagon (talking solid chassis cars here) whats the legal requirements?

I assume fish plates, but thoughts?

F

Sweet I'll give the pins a try. Possibly upgrading soon so don't want to spend money unless I really haft too

Even more shiny

Hey so I've developed a problem with my from drivers side calliper

its a Toyota spider style.

seems to not disengage properly and is still holding a bit of pressure on the disc.

so much so when I remove the wheel and turn the hub by hand I haft to put my elbow into it to turn it.

i can hear the pads on the disc when turning.

is there a trick to getting it to loosen up or does the calliper need to be removed and serviced?

cheers

ash

looks off more off centre then it is from photo angle 

Recommendations on certifier in Auckland?

swapping motor from a car that was certed to one that's needs cert.

was hope to use lance walsh who Certed the original car but seems he's since retired.

called Alex gee and he said he's sticking to bikes and to call Gareth court.

called him, he sounds busy and I'm waiting to hear back from him.

basiclly just want someone I can email photos threw to regarding cutting and welding of fire wall and engine mounts to say yes or no before I start the process 

cheers in advance

ash

Mmmm shiny

Also swapped out the cig lighter for a USB port.

I stopped by PB tech and picked up a USB extension I'll cut the end off and solder to the USB panel mount fitting.

means I won't have gay useb cables hanging out from under the glove box or trying to get my head under there to plug one in

Started on wiring.

friends building an e36 rally car Atm, never new but they run a quick release harness from factory.

basiclly a kiddy lock squeeze and twist at the fire wall and then the engine loom comes undone.

so if pulling the motor out, there's no unplugging things off the motor.

scrored one off a shell he's wrecking so I'll build that into the loom.

being carby there's really only Ign, timing trigger and o2 sensors feeding back to the ECU so not much to re-pin.

main thing I'm concerned about if the extra wiring for the system, I'm on the hunt for a engine bay fuse box from a similar year yota with more fuse and relay outlets.

probably from an EFI ta63 or ma60 or the likes.

then repin it into my car and then I can add the added feeds and fuses into the factory loom. Will be a bit of work but I think it'll be worth it.

ive pulled an Aw11 and ae111 loom apart so I've got plenty of spare parts and doing it for a job your think I could do a good job

Been off the road for a wheel with a leaky wheel valve and an indicator relay that gave up.

Relay is one that doesn't change flash speeds from jaycar, I'll pull it open and see why it gave up, wouldn't think it would be loading with only two lamps but maybe.

other shit storm is the last place I haven't removed rust.

you can see it's eating into the seem where the two layers meet, and has made a hole so waters getting into the drivers foot well.

the masking tape is the area I'm thinking of cutting out to get at the rust and repair.

My welding skills aren't great and I want a good job of it. i found a bloke by the name of chris grant that seems onto it so hopefully he's not to busy to help and I can get it sorted.

after that it'all be rust free and sealed up and I can focus on getting that motor in

Oh yeah, I'm not putting the 7AGTE into it anymore btw

Little bit more progress.

going threw what to retain and what won't need to be retained.

couple differences like the preface lift engine lid catch is off set.

witch is good as it needs to be to clear the intake manifold.

nots: chrome button thing marks centre on red car

http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=hnciv0xq.fdu.jpg

facelift centred

http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=acjwxqsi.dxj.jpg

so I'll need to unstitch the mount on the white one and swap them over

engine lid is facelift SC witch from factory are supercharged.

as a pose to modding my mint one I'll make to with the one off the red car. Probably cut more out and re do the fibre glass to look factory and pretty

Other thing is the rear fire wall between the rear boot and bay.

would be nice to simply cut the one out of the red car and weld it into the white one but I'll run it pass the certifier as I'd hate to get caught out.

http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=mhevydvu.rq2.jpg

the rest is just time needing to be spent. Remove everything, clean the living shit out of it, paint is gloss black. Maybe some gold NASA looking heat foil shit on the engine side.

i want to retain the evap and charcoal can as well so that will all go back on

http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=hadhaoc2.uno.jpg

On 4/13/2017 at 19:41, Threeonthetree said:

I agree. Still waiting to hear what the rest of the people who are going to attend think about the proposed route.

Otherwise I'll just pick one.

Plus 1 for pokeno and possibly further down 22 then hetherington rd

Progress 

Chopped a bit more out the rear to get it sitting a bit flatter.

picked up some 15" ssr meshies off a mate for peanuts

sweet cause I can swap the centres over to my flashy 8.5" barrels too

had a geez at yota fest at a couple trigger setups.

photos from a 3tgte rina and look exactly like what I need.

ill use the factory pulley as it's harm balanced etc etc.

but for the spacer to sit flat I'll need to lathe the inside surface down and possibly tap the lip off.

only needing water pump and alt I might be able to cut the front grooves off as well

aaaand I was making coilovers but ended up finding some already made on AA60 stubs so should have those here I couple weeks too

Old girl stretching her legs

3 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

professional street bike performance colorful single steel 25 T BMX bike chain wheel
http://s.aliexpress.com/umi6VF36
(from AliExpress Android)

Winner! 

On 3/24/2017 at 19:09, tortron said:

Yeah yeah nah. Grab a single speed sprocket. They are much thicker for 1/8" chain

The track ones have less of a ramp so you could trim them back a little and have flat top and bottom

Cheers for the suggestion, seems like that could work. Their cheap as well, $20-35

the only issue now is finding a 25t wheel made from steel.

all the ones I've found are alloy or Ti

7 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

I only mention it because I have seen some for sale (on diy autotune I think) that are even pointier than bike sprockets. 

Never used any of em myself so learning.

You could get one laser cut pretty easily.

 

Yeah I did think a push bike sprocket hanging out the side of the head would look pretty mad max haha

im trying to be a Jew to get the thing done and in haha

theres a place across from work that dose water/lazer and milling stuff on contract to manufacturing shops. 'Lmaybe I'll go over for a yarn at lunch

19 hours ago, rxtoy said:

Sorry, I read that wrong and thought they were to suit standard pulleys. I read your question on their page, can you machine the front of the stock pulley flat to suit their trigger wheel?

Or trim the edge down of their spacer??

lips not that big

19 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Why don't people use bike sprockets as their trigger wheels? Some of the available wheels look juuuust like bike sprockets 

I asked a couple onto it people about this. Using push bike sprocket. All said cause the teeth tapper to an almost point/curve their not ideal as hall sensors operate better and clearer with straight edges.

i did wonder if you could get a moto sprocket and lathe the end of the teeth off to give a sparser edge