siren676

It's a 7" ring and pinion so fits in 1.8 na or nb diff housings.

Considered going with an aftermarket kia gear set but 5.1 or 5.4 might have been a little bit too short haha

Keep forgetting to update this. Changed a few things over the last 6 months.

Finally got around to having a rollbar made up for it by Chubb Racing. Will now be confident to get back out onto the track again.

And made it stand out a lot by painting it yellow



A friend needed some money so sold me his retro cluster cover made by KG Works

Gave the car a proper wash as i was asked by NZPC if they could feature it in the daily driven article.

Also bought and installed a 6 speed which has made the ratios super short with the 4.778 ratio diff.
3rd gear taps out at 100kph and sitting at 3900rpm at 100kph in 6th

Have been watching too many itb/carb videos lately so might be doing an itb setup with 20v 4age throttles in the near future

Was tired of the torsen lsd starting to open wheel getting into works driveway so made a plan to build a bit of a Frankenstein diff.
Bought a front diff out of a kia sportage to get the 7" ring and pinion out of it which is 4.778:1 ratio.
Got a factory non-turbo FC clutch type lsd from USA which takes the 7" ring gear and has the same splines as the mx5 axles.
All of this was bolted into a MX5 housing which allowed it to bolt straight in.
Car accelerates a lot nicer now but the speedometer is 12% high even after changing to a different speedo drive.

Got some Dunlop Direzza Zii's for the rear to match the fronts then went on a charity cruise up to Paihia.
After the cruise we camped out at Matauri bay then I decided to take the scenic route back to Auckland starting from Cape Reinga.

Awesome night guys, was a big turnout.
Didnt manage any pics this time as I was too buy talking but there were a lot of people walking around with cameras.

Haven't done too much over the last few months, just been driving the car to & from work also bought some reground cams.

And some pics without all the gumboot rally sponsor stickers




 

Actually managed to make it to this one haha.
Got some pics after i was done stuffing my face.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/91861841@N05/euD5vK

Does this really matter? would wof people know what has or hasn't been approved for road use?

Probably not, think Pine puts the sticker on the inside of the barrel so it gets covered by the tyre anyway

This gives me 2 days to get my front bumper fitted up, should make it this time!

Small update

Got a Nardi deep corn wheel through Moonlight racing to help with leg room.
 

Then fitted the rear bumper and some friends talked me into doing a livery on the car instead of painting it all black.
Took it on gumboot rally the next day so dont have any pics of it without the sponsor stickers on it.

Stuck cooking dinner, might make it later

No problems,. Other side is AM36018

Closest thing I could find at work. Bolts are 41mm CTOC 1-1/8" off the rear of a 65-73 mustang

Hadnt been to one of these meets in ages, will have to bring a warmer jacket next time

Have an Innovate MTX-L for tuning my efi cars, was really easy to install and use

Just had one of these kits arrive at work(BNT), might be what you are after?
Suits M14 spark plugs, Can do one for $20 inc gst



Edit: 2nd pic didnt post, was on mobile

Not running with the turbo yet, needed it to be able to pass a wof for daily use while my other car is off the road for a gearbox rebuild.

Will be putting in my Link ecu (G1V5) at some point to make sure it'll run on the off boost part of the map (had a tune for a t28 turbo)

Next I got to fitting some parts I'd been stockpiling since buying the shell.

Frame rail protectors to help stiffen up the car and stop denting the floor stiffeners on speed bumps.

 

 

Fitted a sparco sprint seat to get me more headroom as im 6'3".

Swapped in my coilovers which i managed to save from the other shell after having the right front tested by autolign to make sure it was still usable.

Then rolled the rear guards and got to fitting my SSR MKI's which I'd been collecting over a year.
The fronts are 14x7.5 -6 which i bought new from SSR and the rears are 14x8.5 -7 which i got 2nd hand off a friend.

 

Also test fit a rear bumper cover and ducktail spoiler.



Have ordered an aftermarket front bumper which should be arriving next month in the Moonlight racing container


 

Will be painting all the new panels and few green parts on the chassis once the bumper has arrived to make the whole car black

After the big milestone of getting the car started i bled up the clutch system and took the car for a test drive up my driveway.

Next job was to make start making it look like a car again. Fitted seats, rest of the interior trim, hardtop and doors off the other shell.

(Apologies for all the cellphone pics, didn't want to dirty my good camera)




The shell came with a green front bumper and bonnet so got the bumper painted black by a friend along with some red guards that I'd picked up, couldnt fit the bonnet in my starlet so ended up rattle canning it.




Got some analogue wheel alignment tools  and set to making it drive straight and have even camber all round.






Swapped to a set of more road friendly wheels then took it to a wof place next to work, it passed with only a couple of lights needing replacing.

After installing the oil return i went on to replacing some of the intake that got bent in the crash.
Then got to wedging the drivetrain into the new shell.




Got my old fenix radiator that got bent in the crash, shortened by 150mm to make intercooler piping far easier.




Then welded up some mounts to suit.




And plumbed up a power steering cooler.




Swapped the black dashboard out of the other shell then made sure everything was hooked up correctly to be able to give it a test start.

Thought I might as well finally make a build for my car.

I bought this MX5 as a rolling shell to replace my one which I wrote off at a drift day.

Purchased as a rolling shell, the paintwork was pretty rough, had a cracked screen, no interior except a dash and steering column.

 

First job was to get the windscreen removed so i could get a spare one installed.
After removing the dash to get access i cut the screen out using a stanley knife then discovered why it had cracked.



Found a small rust patch going up the entire side of the windscreen, so had to grind that out and prep it before getting AALAWS to install the new screen.

Next thing was to swap all the rear panels, polybushed arms and the 7" torsen diff.

 

Then was on to removing the engine and gearbox (Standard 1600 with 6 puk clutch and 5 speed) after cutting out the damaged section of chassis to make things easier.


 

 

While the motor was out I took the opportunity to install the turbo drain.



More to come, just trying to keep posts shortish

Asked the other day, due on the water in 2 months

Can vouch for Alex too, have had multiple items bought in by him in the last 5 or so containers, very easy to deal with (too easy in fact, resulting in multiple drunk purchases )

That would prove a little difficult for getting over speed bumps/driveways, you'd have to come to a complete stop before and after for it to go full up/down

So reading that the system would just have to let all the air out/go back down to certed height when over 20k's? Seems simple enough in theory