rotormotor

Used seals for Mr Hol

Slight update with pics. Plates just been skimmed and when rehardened, be back in my hands to be painted. Taking my first batch of castings for vapour blasting tomorrow. Picked up my new radiator and fuel rails today. Dropped off allternator and starter motor to be checked(worked ok on removal), rebushed & bearinged and castings be removed for the second vapour run. I contemplated pulling the alt and starter apart myself, but time poor and had issues removing the shaft of alternator..prob rearbearing stuck fast. First autosparky not interested in it(only a new parts fit guy and hiff the old) so second one was ok with my plan.

Not vapour blasting new housings so hopefully they not clash with the vapour blasted cast pieces. From the factory fitted 13BT, Im deleting all the emission gear, installing FMIC, new ally radiator, deleting AC, deleting clutch fan for electric fans so much more the engine be seen and rewire with new ECU. I think it be worth adding some details so for a change I can leave bonnet up when attending carshows.

While waiting for the wankel sandwich bits to be sorted/returned for my final assembly, I looking for pretty up bits online. Kustomcuts au has a few tasty goodies, is old font mazda acceptable on an FC or is a fusion of decades more than ok Emission blank off plates, OMP injector housing/inlet blank bungs and OMP blsnk on timing cover plate, CAS cover, radiator cover, braided oil cooler lines and turbo lines all items I looking to add. Trying to visualise the final product as not gonna be a show car. Am painting irons x3, kinda like the stock look of the rotor housings, bell housing/gearbox casts, after vapour blast the original fitted components, do they need a coat of something to keep looking that way? Primeraly more focus the bell housing forward details, being a novice to detailing and engine rebuilding, clearcoat a go or need an etch on casting so painting silver a better consideration? Polishing those bits just not the look what I going for. Any past history details or insights warmly welcomed.

Be rude not to...

He is..well 'a' Matt is

Wonders if Billy Hol be interested in recycling my old seals

Popped into builders and eyeballed my parts haul thus far and picked up my now surplus rotors for selling purposes. Couple pics of a pair of bagged FC housings and FC S4 NA rotors for the thread...yeah I pulled the new rotor x2 trigger as it feels the correct action so I know its all good in the assembly with no sketchy variables. Checked over the irons as not yet been shipped for skim/hardening yet...builder fulltime non mazda dealership mechanic and does his 'wankeling' after hours or weekends. Bridges looks spunky as, as are the opened up primaries.

I prefer the F18's over the black rims... having polished F17's myself Alot of issues hidden for the most part, seller can't be that 'blind' to all of them...If as you said he 'had' for sale previously how does it get fresh WOFs all these months since? Also..wonders why, as you mentioned, he removed from sale due to tyrekickers..maybe they got it inspected and the red flags made them run...meh who knows. But Safety first and you sorting the wrongs for your offspring and of course yourself and fellow road users which is paramount and then its a known entity.

Small update. Porting finished all irons and are off to rehardening..ill get pics when back in my hands. The Front rotor above cleaned up no issues. Cleaned the rear rotor but we did notice on pull down that the rotors were machined out for 3mm seals and was a chip 1/3 way along the slot..prob why they been machined decades ago as threw the seal In the back. Anyways, cleaning rear one and was sketchy about how clean it wasn't compared to front and different "texture". Builder suspects one was original..one new. They are both reusable. Discussion now is do I use old rotors in new housings keep 3mm apex with all the new OEM seals or replace one rotor adding a 3mm remachining cost. Or new FD rotors or new FC NA S4 rotors(higher compression to run more boost) and stay 2mm. Sell my old ones as matching pair to offset cost of one new rotor. Leaning towards NA so known history of the new engine.

Gearbox shop I dropped it off at tried the upsell by showing me a polished gear compared to standard factory, explained the parts are placed in a "tumble dryer" like machine with a media I assume. I don't thrash my cars, so not really required as Mazda did a pretty decent job of it 30 years ago. I rather spend on essential bits required. Ballpark half a grand

Gettn into pulling bits apart for vapourblasting and cleaning my rotors. Also dropped off my 5 speed minus bell housing to the local to def replace 5th syncho and whatever bearings/other maintainence bits required or prudent to do. Mentioned getting the internals hardened, smooth (likened to shotpeening) but lets see what 'needs' to be replaced.

Gots me a water pump housing, seller said they usually corrode in the centre as mine did. He been out of the rotary scene for years now, mechanic used to own Cairns motors out Kilbirnie, raced and fixed the tangas back in the day. Was his last housing so lucked in. Came with near new water pump too (possibly A/M but has 'Japan' on its casting) Paid builder $2.4K fir the rest of the OEM seals, rotor bearings, oil pump etc.

Yip, that the route Im taking now abeit using my original shaft. Having never build a wankel but knowing enough to be dangerous, I'm getting more imformed daily it seems. Builder has account at M&M racing and NZperformance Palmy will be the Link ECU hookup venue.

I assumed a done thing when engine open & plan to lighten flywheels, thanks. Think I regret not doing the flywheel thing?

Cheers There seems to be one in seaview steam and sand offer vapour too.

Plates lightskim only before hardening and I questioned needing Rx8 e shaft rather then reuse mine if fit lightened flywheel and counterweight...he's ported the end plates so clearly must be fit to use as nothing negative been mentioned. He said halfpound lighter and when i decide my direction as you say those components need go off to balancing. O ringkit ex japan weeks away..rest of seals/springs arrived today along with a $1.6K pricetag I see billy hols latest YT clip shows a gold LHD Rx2..owner made a few pressed Rx2 boot floors, one of them was yours?

Anyone has a contact for vapour blasting, welding cast aluminium or S5 Water pump housing, please get in touch. Google shows me miramar guy or upper hutt has a walnut blaster.

Also..what i thought was an uncracked 13BT has been opened before...kinder surprise as my builder said. Vivid numbers on the thru bolts for tourque sequence (not factory) and further delving apex seals were 3mm not factory issue 2mm...either dropped an apex or compression or performance upgrade. Rotor apex slots been machined out to 3mm as were the corner seals rather than use S6 full ones. Must have happened early on in its life as I've had the car near 20 years and previous owner never opened it up.

Bit ofupdate. Half bridge been cut, primaries this weekend then off to be rehardend. Replacing Apex seals/corner springs, Oil control seals/springs, Rx8 front and rear stat gears, Rx8 rotor bearings, high pressure oil pump. Pretty much was all moving parts except side seals where existing were be reused if in spec but I called it may as well do all the bits so more coins thrown in the kitty. Reusing rotors and irons. New housings. All above OEM. Water pump looks ok but the housing it sits in has corroded on the inside where one of the long studs runs thru..explains why that stud was hard to let go removing it. If i can't find a replacement (I've asked around) need to get mine rewelded/repaired. Also need to decide if I want to run a lightened flywheel as run Rx8 e shaft (1/2 pound lighter)and counterweight with green brothers flywheel...over a grand parts there alone. Already $4K in the hole with housings, Apex seals,Stat bearings and porting..still no braps. Vapour blasting some bits too..

Have a few specific rotor engine rebuild questions/queries seeing its my first rebuild. Plates ported, bridge secondary, extended primaries and they off to get resurfaced and hardened. Existing rotors off to get balanced. New Apex seals, S6 corner seals/springs and Rx8 front and rear stat bearings. O ring kit weeks away from Japan. New rotor bearings (can't remember FD or Rx8) Since decided to replace all oil controls springs and seals, and side seals where clearances are checked. Suggesting new high pressure Rx8 oil pump. E shaft balance but if I decide to go lightened flywheel, need Rx8 E shaft and counter weight. Gonna add another heafty chunk of change if I go this route, any thoughts if lighten flywheel is a no brainer? Cheers.