fagoff

to cylinder head.

I'm not happy with the ADM 34 auto choke carb ive got so I'm going to change it for a new weber 38 DGMS manual choke which is the proper choice with all my mods. Engine has lots more power but really chews through the gas now.Im also having a water jacket attached to bottom of the manifold to stop petrol pooling in manifold.I guess I will need to replace my manifold gasket which was new on a month ago, ? Does anyone know where I can get a new one from ?.

We have replaced the accelerator linkage with a cable setup which really made the carby and motor come alive both barrels on carb are working fully now. Only trouble ive got is the pedal has a sticky point about 1/5 of the way down which makes it tend to rev too fast when you push on pedal, past the sticky point. I think its something in new pedal setup as when I disconnect cable from carby and hand operate accelerator on carb it is all smooth. Will look at it again over the weekend.

thanx three, I put some more pics on too.

some pics of my hq

At Frosty 5.4.15. Turns out you were bang on m8.I recently had the head off to port it etc .redid valves and they were leaking. since its all gone back together no more fumes. I really didn't expect that after the motor was fully reconditioned top to bottom by a reputable reconditioner in CHCH.

Interested in your views. Link to build thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53501-fagoffs-hotter-73-hq/#entry1733277

some pics

I'm getting the HQ linkage changed to a cable setup which will make carb work properly.I acquired a weber round air cleaner which had the round mounting hole ,so I managed to alter the opening to fit my weber carb.its the chromed type which looks good I think. engine has definitely got some more get up and go now.Ill try and put some pics on.

Finally made progress with my HQs 186 motor.Ive had the head ported, put a weber manifold and a second hand ,34 ADM twin port weber carb on. had the cam machined, more lumpy ,fitted freeflow extractors ,removed the resonator muffler, so I can hear it all better and changed the tyres to 205 ,14s for better road handling. I really wanted a manual choke, but couldn't find one when I needed it, will need to fiddle with this ones auto choke to get it working better. We used the existing accelerator linkage to run the carb which still needs a bit of work to get it working 100 %. Over all I am happy with progress just needs some tinkering to get it all working better. Sounds like a v6 when its idling now. There is more useable power now ,with a bit more to tap into.

Next job to start fabing the body.

Assembled , painted frame ,wheels still to go on and seat to be made.

That's a whole other topic.its been stuck in the garage for three weeks waiting for my new webber carb, very frustrating.

Im building a pedal car fron scratch this time,mainly so I can get good at fabricating and welding for big boy cars.Welding 3 mm steel is definitely much easier than 0.8 mm steel .The steering rack and column look good and work great the rear axle was difficult to heat and bend up ive only got a gutless torch at present so will need a bigger one if I keep on this track.

thanx.Brent

too complicated uploading pics.if interested you can see my latest mk2 car on trademe, no 1108964336. buy it if you want. (-:

I did have the pics loaded ok but the admin person said I was in the wrong place ,I don't know how to reload pics here,sorry.

Ive done up a few cars over the years ,but was always limited to mostly cosmetic work as I didn't know how to weld or fabricate metal. Late last year after loads of research I decided to learn mig welding and metal fabrication.I tried to find courses in my area (thames) but nothing going.So after hours on the interweb I bought myself a home mig welder, 140 amp with gas, co2..Then off to wreckers for some old car panels. I have eventually cut out and replaced most of the original metal in them then I practiced bogging and painting them. Then I bought a fantastic how to manual on everything from welding to complex metal fabrication techniques.My new addiction is buying fabrication tools.Various hammers, dollies angle grinder a combined metal cutter bender and tube bender tool.My latest acquisition is a shrinker /stretcher tool, love it. My first practice project was a pedal car body.I found an broken pedal car frame at the dump.And fixed it up then built a body for it out of 0.08 mm sheetmetal. Its pretty basic but the lessons I learnt were great. I have sold that one. I bought a pedal car frame on trademe to build the Mk2 and have just finished the mk2 model which is a b it more complex and interesting think. Very satisfying My next project will be a bit more hotroddish which I am going to build from the ground up. I have now acquired four matching wheels so will start on that soon. My aim is to become competent enough to replace and fabricate car panels starting with my HQ which has a few rust issues.I will try to load some pics on to the site My next project is going to be a hotrod type of car and I am going to build it from the ground up First two are mk1 second two are mk2

Fagoff 73 HQ Hi I havnt been on for a while I moved to Thames from Chch over a year ago and drove my HQ up went like a dream. I repainted it not long before I moved didn't have much time so I just treated the rusty bits, bogged and painted it . Now im settled in my plan is to cut out rusty bits and repaint the old girl. I recently bought a home handyman mig welder with co2 and lately a 3in 1 sheet metal tool it cuts bends and makes curves up to 300 mls wide in 1mm or thinner metal.I figure that should do for anything I need and can always join for wider pieces. I picked up an old car door from the wreckers and have been cutting it up and welding in new patches also practicing bogging and painting it. Im getting more ambitious at welding patches on my door including corners with fold over seams . One question ,is it necessary to do a continuous weld on a car panel eg a door panel or is it ok to just tack weld at say 5/10 mm apart all round and fill gaps later with bog. ? The more I weld the metal the more potential for distorting the metal im working on.

If you havnt crossed some wires somewhere it will be a crappy earth somewhere both my holdens have done similar crap at times ,I had to pretty much pull every part of all lights apart clean them up and make sure everythings getting a good earth.where they were in bumpers etc I also had to take bumpers off and make sure they were making a good earth with the body. the fun and games of 40 plus year old cars eh.

I've replaced boot seal got it through rare spares ,cheaper than basics ,for a change found the old one was fitted the wrong way also found all door seals have been replaced and also put on wrong way round I've refitted front two made a big difference to the loud wind noise it's always made.still fumes in car when decelerating ,but I've discovered it only does it when front windows are open ,,which is OK in winter ,but a bugger in summer when you need them open a bit.used to leak water badly through front doors when it rains hopefully that's fixed now too.

Extended exhaust pipe past end of car made a difference doesn't do it as much but still does occasionally

Some good ideas there Thanks.the exhaust has got a chrome pipe on the end I've extended that out another 4 inches and sealed around the bit where it tightens up so now pipe is well past end of car will see how that goes.next thing mite be replace boot seal it's OK but probably not as good a seal as when new.I don't suppose the fumes could be getting sucked in driver or passenger doors the door seals are pretty poked really.had new air filter a month ago.valve seals really I know I was charged for new ones the reconditioner is pretty good .

I have an hq with a 186 engine with pretty much factory setup. Ever since I bought it It,it fumes in the car,smells like exhaust fumes not oil burning smell. .recently had motor reconditioned,rings rebore bearings etc. No difference with the fumes in car though. It doesn't fume around town below 70 km, mainly on open road when I put my foot down for a burst and usually when its decelerating almost always when im coming downhill and not accelerating. damned annoying.Things ive tried two mechanics cant figure out why it does it.had a recent tune up, timing was a bit off and was running a bit rich ,better now hopefully.checked exhaust and manifold for leaks, sealed up manifold joint with exhaust cement.check theres good suction at inlet hose off rocker cover. replaced PCB valve.made sure oil filler cap breather is clear,it does only have two small holes to breath through. made sure exhaust pipe sticks out past end of car.I sealed up all holes I could find in engine bay and boot,There are gaps at bottom of driver and passenger front doors. I can see light between bottom of doors and car body,door seals are a bit stuffed which causes a bit of wind noise.I recently noticed oil was spitting out of dipstick and running down over oil filter ,I got a rubber tap washer onto it and no more leaks. Don't know what else to do any ideas or had same experience .