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Posts
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Posts posted by nickrock
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Rust wise if its like the elf then check around the front panel where it joins the floor especially beside the heater and the multi skin area behind the seats
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I drive a earlier Isuzu elf 250 every day brilliant bullet proof but then its old technology non overhead cam 4be2
Done 180 000 in last 8 years
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I would have guessed at ht but it was a few years since I owned one
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Used to see that truck often it used to haul off road to Tasman pulp and paper ,spoke to him a few times if I recall 500 or 600 hp cat in the trailer early one quiet Sunday morning he lit it up in the log yard had the trailer catching up with the tractor unit
He's a kiwi that was logging in northern Canada
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I had a vs and the crank angle sensor played up it would intermittently stop while idling was easy fix I think it was 25 bucks and about 3 minutes to change the local garage scanned it and told me the problem
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Or you could do like what I have done and have a couple of extra cheap electric compressors under the bench which I plug in to the big tank I have when I need a bit extra
Will run a high volume spray gun full time but my big old 3/4 rattle gun will get a couple of stubborn truck wheel nuts off before I need to let it catch up but that rattle gun is real old school and just hogs the air it was second hand when I brought it 40 years ago
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The door cards look good did you get them done
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Does the oil leaking from the upper cars stop the lower cars from rusting?
This woman brought a Austin maxi in for a respray it leaked that bad we folded up a custom drip tray to fit ( there were a few comments about then we could just pour the oil back in to it) it was wired to the body so it stayed with the car when it got moved
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I have sat in the back of a couple or three of them in In my youth but that's another story
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Could only see a jpeg of the start lineFound a good quality Bathurst stream here:
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Re your last post I personally would go up way higher with the patch that brown stuff is rust starting to happen
Had the same in my Holden doors I went up 400mm got skins from earls body shop $135 + gst
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People that like comer knocker haven't spent hours n the cab and still have good hearing
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I will be the skinny good lookin guy there hehe
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I will be in makara Saturday morning for most of the day that's where the carpenters workshop is he's got bench saws buzzers and planers
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Where are you ? Depends on how far away you are you could probably use the bench saws in the workshop I work in on the weekend
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Ingram charge $500 to make up and put in a extra leaf
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Is that Holden owned by a home loan broker in karori
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I get people trying to swap lanes behind me at intersections.the bin lifter on the truck is totally awesome at ripping off front bumpers and lights
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Very cool except the useless bumper
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i want one
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When I had my triumph painted I found a friendly painter that would let me work on it in his shop, I sanded it down and stripped it at home then took it too his shop, he did the undercoat then let me block it out / taught me how to do it properly and fixed little bits he thought should be done better, this took me a couple of weekends. After that he painted the 2k base / clear top coat and cut and polished it, cost me $1800 iirc. Plus side was I learnt heaps.
that would be your best deal we just finished a full strip out of a 1960 kombi camper .owner did a deal with the boss he stripped it all out and re assembled it ,i did all the welding and panel replacement ( right rear quarter, front panel, left front wheel arch and roof where it sweated under the pop top and under the sliding windows ) it had had a good smack in left front many years ago was cheaper to buy new panels that re pull it and we were also able to remove more unsean rust
owner worked shift work so he would come in and help out and pick up skills so by the time it was time for paint prep he was doing it him self after practicing on out customers cars hehe
2k paint is about 300 for 4 litres base coat clear coat the sky is the limit
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For panel steel I think 160 is ample more important is the ability to set the amps in fine increments I have a old bôc 185 , coincidentally the same welded at a panel shop where I help out part time .it has 5 course amp settings and 5 fine and generally used on 3 c 2 f . For spot and lap joins 2c3f for jap steel butt welds
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For panel steel I think 160 is ample more important is the ability to set the amps in fine increments I have a old bôc 185 , coincidentally the same welded at a panel shop where I help out part time .it has 5 course amp settings and 5 fine and generally used on 3 c 2 f . For spot and lap joins 2c3f for jap steel butt weld
I have welded up 12 mm plate ( v join ) on many occasions
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About time I was having withdrawal symptoms waiting for the next instalment.Hope we don't have to wait so long this time
who is the BEST at rust repairs?
in Lower North Island Region
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Walker mcluskie do a lot of rust repairs ( I do part time work there) last year we did a major rebuild on a early kombi I'm just starting a full floor and sill replacement on one side of a mini (rust ) was cheaper to put new panels in than repair them he's always pretty fully booked know there are tow more kombi coming in next year one is a front panel other one he recon would be months of just cut and replace
the beauty about replacing panels is you can get to clean up seams that you could never get to and panels behind it
rust it like the proverbial iceberg you only see 1% of the rust and its a case of how far the customer wants to go