nickrock

At this stage its a hypothetical question as deal isn't done but a mate wants to sell me his registered and warranted Holden less the 500 hp chev in it , if I brought it and threw in a bogs standard 304 Holden (originally a 6) will I need to get it re certified 

What he's asking for it is less than a panel shop would charge for the mint paint job on it , he's in process of acquiring a restored Camaro that is now less the motor

Single

Ok pm me early next month when I'm back in the country 

Its either done 147k or 174k its a 1990 nks 250 got a hydraulic tail lift 3m deck got two sets of tyres road and mud grip 

Gear linkage needs a grease was hard to change from 3rd to 4th but got lots better after I had finished towing out a 6x6 truck (I hardly ever use it except to get fire wood off a mates steep farm block)

Its 99% ready to take it for re vin ,just got to find out why wiper motor sounds like a concrete mixer and and spray a couple of panels where I cut out some rust ( around the back near the cab locks where they all go)

Offers

I originally for spares for my other trucks but just went so well so kept it

18 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said:

Ive been keeping an eye on this for a future project

 

http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/engines-motors/diesel/auction-1368749203.htm?archive=1

Way too expensive 

29 minutes ago, ThePog said:

giz

? you want it ?

I have a 4x4 Isuzu truck about the same size as the photo was used for towing a 300mm chipper in the bush ,I'm looking for a new deck for it preferably a tipping one

I have a 4be2 in shed ( spare for my trucks) if you want dimensions etc ,my understanding is that the 3.3 3.6 3.9 4.2 are all pretty much interchangeable 

I got a set of turbo on my Holden a few people have gone get some real ones but I like them 

3 hours ago, BigT105e said:

Yep had thought about duals too, but was gonna leave me with too little room between the guards, might chuck them on the old garden trailer tho, make the most of those tip trips...... rip off bastards, that's another yarn for another day tho, smokos over lol

You don't need to tell me about the cost of going to the tip I go there every day

With the duals you probably have about 2 m between the wheels good for most cars , if any one is wrecking a light truck or van with small duals I might be interested ,got some of a Nissan atlas van but the rims are totally rusted 

I also have one that has no real reason for me having it 

Its got 16 inch wheels  I towed a 3t ford truck with it no probe once I figured that I only tie down around the wheels so it wouldn't push my truck through the corners 

Thinking of hacking off the hub and stubs and using the floating hubs of the light trucks with the small dual wheels ( heavier load capacity with more stability and flats tire don't put you instantly on the side of the road

Is there a website with all these diff specs I was at pick a part today looking at a  vn ? diff for possible modification to go n to my wb

The guy I did the kombi for piped in to the workshop to day so I asked him about the panels the good ones were only about $50 more expensive plus he's got a 2l ( I think he said 914 engine in it ) scary at over 100 kms and your over taking going up hills , his own words lol

We put a whole new front panel on  I recall it took me less than a day to strip and fit plus clean up behind where you had rust forming but would never be able to get to it with out the panel removal , wouldn't radically modify it they are becoming seriously worth good money ,custpmer had his one valued for insurance and that was tens of thousands more than he spend on full strip down  

Get the original panels they are about 50% more expensive but cheaper when you factor in the time trying to make a silk purse out of a pigs ear . did a 1970 one he originally brought the cheaper ones but realised that they were shit and didn't really fit , front step patch panel had different curve and was twisted

There used to be a place down by port Rd  might have been called metal traders or something like that I brought a few sheets off then few years back and they were cheaper than steel and tube and they chopped some rhs for me too

Had too many cars to list often had 6 or7 at any one time , I remember when I left Wellington I had a  41 chev cmp 56 mainline 71 valiant VIP  humber 80 and a ht Ute to get rid of I traded the ht Ute in for a  new hx ute

I have a 40 to 1 reduction box ,several single phase motors of that helps

On ‎11‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 12:56, Spencer said:

The steel you use makes a huge difference IMO, PC casing is real stiff and would be gay to shape (much like the zinc stuff). Not what you should be putting in your car. If you use some real stiff shit you will have slightly different hardness (not sure on technical terms I am a hack) metals on each side of your welds making it hard to work into shape after? When you use cold rolled and you tack right through the job you can grind and then sand the weld  down flat then work out the shrinkage with a hammer. Zinc doesn't play as nicely and makes this process way harder, I would put computer cases in that basket also? People whinge about mig welds not being workable but I think its the materials and methods used that make it so.

Out of all the consumables you use to fix a car a sheet of the steel that makes the job easy to do seems pretty reasonable? especially at $100-150 a sheet. Get your tin snips out and try it on zinc vs cold rolled, its night and day.

In my experience what your welding makes all the difference ,while ago I was putting rear wheel arch patch panels on a early kombi awesome to weld small tacks then cooled stuff all distortion and its a big flats panel

Next day was on a bent Mitzi although it welded up ok no way could I work it like the low tensile steel bash it and bog it

I found a battery powered reciprocating saw better

He was giving it a final sand after guide coating the panel when I was in there yesterday afternoon

12 hours ago, k-trips said:

Does anyone have hookups for taillight and mirror? Turns out that they are harder to find than good cheap scotch.

/insurance is asking for me to hook them up, anyome got leads?

Are xf Ute the same

Diff was quite strong never broke and I caned it and used to tow car trailer with it most weekends

I did the 289  with auto conversion way back in the late 70s don't remember much about it except it wasn't that hard mate had a very hot 351 in his , was lethal in the wet it would just fry the tyres on every gear change recall late on night on way home from the pub ( I was driving cause he could hardly stand up ) I really struggled to get up the slope from the basin reserve to Mt vic tunnel cops were more interested in what was crammed under the bonnet that the drivers

If you want a URL for the panels and I will ask him defiantly for that front floor way better than repairing it

Also he's got a clubman with a 1.8 Honda vtec I think it was 140kw at rear wheel had turbo etc in it