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nickrock

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Posts posted by nickrock

  1. I would research some type of glue or filler the aly will warp to hell 

    Try some plastic steel you get it at repco i know a panel beater that used it to fill a hole in car roof where arial was  he was very happy with the result

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  2. If you just clean it up and por it the rust will be back soon only real way is to remove it and weld in new steel  when you clean it up there will be several more holes 

    Used to do that stuff on  weekly basis

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  3. On ‎28‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 16:11, flyingbrick said:

    Wiss are bloody good but $$ and i never seem to see them for sale when needed. Youd lose them before ya wear them out 

    I have  set of footprint brand brought them in mid 70s and still cut nicely thin slivers of panel steel no folding on the edge

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  4. I know a guy in Auckland that would take all the side valve v8 running gear as a job lot ,he has trucks with hiabs so getting them out isn't a problem

    If the guy is interested get back to me with how many and how much and I will pass it on 

  5. Cut the bits out section by section small tacks then cool with the air gun that will dramatically reduce the warping and small sections make it easier to fabricate at home the 3 tools I use the most are all air powered 3inch cut of blade its that thin that if I have to cut past where the patch will be its easy to weld up the cut , 20mm belt sander with 60 grit belt for cleaning up rusty steel removing paint around the weld and grinding up the weld it doesn't chew up good steel as much as a disc grinder and more like a scalpel than a machete and a small rotary burr to get in to the small radius that the belt sander won't get in to 

    Patch more than just the obvious rusty bit as it will have crept along the seam 

    When you clean up the rest of the screen area if you see small rust spots its more than likely just starting to come through from the inside get the burr and remove it if you go through so be it just patch it or a years time it will break out and piss you off 

    I have done dozens of them mostly jap cars 

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  6. Depends on what paint you buy 2k has a harder and you don't use a clear coat it is your cheapest option , base coat clear coat is more expensive and requires more expertise in getting a good finish you will need the correct thinners , total body shop in lower hutt will sell you all the stuff mixed to match your car

    I have a super cheap gun I use for primer its ok 

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  7. 4 hours ago, Testament said:
    3 hours ago, Firetruck said:

    If the car's already been certified with a big engine, and as long as your engine mounts and g-box cross member aren't garbage it should fly through cert with no issues.

     

    having to recert isn't the end of the world. I think people are more scared of it than they should be. but maybe selling your 304 and buying a chev would not be all that different cost wise and less work to do.

    if you want to tweak things more later I would definitely be considering chev, more stuff available etc.

    but maybe you prefer the sound of the holden motor, or just would like to have a holden with a holden motor?

    basically you just have to decide what you want, neither is right or wrong.

    It w's more a case of I got the bits , I really don't need another project just a bolt in and go plus no where to park it but outside and its super tidy

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