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TheAudioDude

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Posts posted by TheAudioDude

  1. Its been awhile since the last up date but this is what I've been up to 

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    14Kgs of Akai Gxc-570d, Easy restoration just replace the belt, power cable, faulty components, clean pots,strip and clean entire unit and re-lube mechanism and its ok but as its a tape deck and I am a perfectionist(OCD?) over these Akai's I spend many hours tweaking all the internal adjustments till it can Record and plays back the tape and have it sound exactly like the record it was recorded from. No one believes I can get CD quality sound out of a cassette until they hear one of these but what do you expect when it cost about $950us in 1975. I hoard Cassette decks

    • Like 4
  2. Display dead ic 901 or something has died. Anyway more important things. i found another Technics amp to play with. This time its rather more dead because rust has dissolved a lot of the components on the power amp board.

    Technics SU-V9, 120 Watts per channel when both are driven at 20-20K Hz, 850 Watts power consumption, 15Kgs, New Class A and hopefully sound fantastic

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  3. Thanks for that

    It turns out that yea i was doing something like that.

    traced some wires and tried it again, the display is totally dead but everything else works. It played a tape. Might try and trace fault but it has so many IC's, probably isn't worth the bother

  4. Help please. I have a rather rough Pioneer KPX-999 cassette deck i just want to know if the unit works and I am doing something wrong or its has problems. First Question, Do these units have security codes?

    I have tried Connecting one of the 8 pin din plugs to the gm-4200 amp and the orange (power?) wire to the B+ and the only thing that happens when you turn the amp on is the buttons light up and the door opening works, the display is not lighting up and nothing happens with the cassette mechanism. Ideas?

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    Three cables and a single orange wire. 

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    The Guts of it

     

    • Like 1
  5.  My latest toys to play with are these two Pioneer Carrozzeria amps, a GM-3000 and GM-4200X. Both totally dead when received. Dismantled both units and found all the problems lead to cracked solder joints, common problem on all car equipment normally due to not enough solder used on the boards and being subject to excessive vibration. The bottom pic shows four cracked joints not making contact, now all going and have no idea what to do with them because the bigger one draws four amps at idle and sixty at full power on 15 volts, that drain a good falcon battery in 2 hours. Excessive!!! They sound real nice tho.

     

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  6. This might be of use to some of you, simple circuit to remove unwanted noise from old head-units. put it between the main power in and the power in on the head-unit. the coil is about 6 turns and should be on a ferrite rod with about a mm or two between windings. this should remove the RF interference. the big capacitor could be smaller/larger and the 2mf use a film capacitor.

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    • Like 2
  7. Couple of things done I have done, first was to replace the fabric on a pair of my speakers because the last owners cat had been at them. It made them look a thousand times better.

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    After
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    I made a start on transferring some records on to tape. what a long process that is.Constantly adjusting bias so Dolby noise reduction fucking works, and cleaning the glass heads   I can see why the format doesn't exist any more but hell when it works it sounds better than mp3!!! nothing like the naturalness of tape. The final thing is i'm starting work again on build a pair of speaker cabinets that can fit twin 15"s or a single 21", Quad 8"s, huge horn and super tweeters, My aim is a flat response from 20Hz to 20kHz, 600Watts ish of real power,  and a fork lift to move them. 34mm thick walls, 40x40 frame and lots of bracing. overall dimensions 600x600x1200mm  SOLID!!!! once they're built I'll have to build an amp to match, Tube????

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    • Like 3
  8. So, for finishing the Technics, the re veneering and re painting the grill makes it look good.Vinyl veneer is so easy and looks good enough. For the lights in the amp, they use two automotive 5w festoon bulbs which lights the display OK but is nothing compared with old Sansui's. So i found a couple of LEDs to put above the meters and tuning indicator. Now as it uses 12V ac you get pulsations from the led as they only illuminate every 2nd hundredth of a second(this causes some of the problems people have reading under fluorescent lights). So to fix this is very simple. all you need is a diode bridge and a large capacitor. this turns ac into dc thus removing the problem.

    On the grill of the Technics I decided to give it some "bling" by cutting out a stencil and spray panting Technics onto it. This worked a lot better than I thought it would, oh and for safety reasons I put a new power cable on it as the plastic goes hard and brittle on the old ones. Also gave the amp a good test and then measure 

    40.1V on the rails 

    and 32V easy at speakers so (32X0.707)²/8=64Wrms in oldschool measurement 

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    AC in, Smoothed DC out

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    • Like 6
  9. Thanks man, this is another pointless project i'm doing.

    Just for you Pioneer fans I’m doing this.

    “Orion Fels” I believe your ts-x11 are mint compared with these heaps of shit. But this is what can be done if you have a lot of time. They are out of a crashed vehicle, so the magnets have moved and bent the frame of the woofer. There is also glass and dirt behind all grills. I plugged them in to my Technics and no sound at all from one and only a murmur from the tweeter in the other. I pull them apart and think why should I bother I've all ready got three sets of perfectly good car speakers, Tenvox BiYo 9007, Pioneer GS-5300 and Roadstar RS/934X.

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    It took lots of 556 to get those screws out. The only ones to snap were on the underside

    Right now time to see why the drivers are all open circuit. Some acetone and the woofers apart answer its cooked

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    I pull the other apart and its OK but has rusted between the lead out on the coil and the brades going in, so a quick solder and 3.9ohms,dc which is about right. I must say they are very well designed for a commercial production speaker. Glue them back together, replace the foam surround and a quick paint they’re working like new. I go and replace the capacitors on the crossover as well.

    The mids are fun as they are really badly rusted in the same place

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    The cabinets get the bucket of soapy water
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    Now to strip off the stuffed paint, you could sand it but that takes hours. I used a paint stripping wheel on a drill them sanded it with 80 grit to get the brushed finish. Compare one against the other
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    I have a quick go at the front and then decide to see what they sound like
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    Impressed I am. Still a lot of work to be done.......
    • Like 8
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