Bangbug

I'd suggest my friends shop but he may not have a stock of shims yet, he's a ute fan. I'm heading in there shortly to change some bike tyres I'll have a look.

The place behind botany car sales has an old bloke who was great value and let me help with my last alignment etc. Their alignment machine has STEP BY STEP pictures of how to align the vehicle your working on as well.

Ok, the weight in a e30 is slightly front biased (6%) so I'd say with a wagon it'd be brought back closer to 50/50 due to the extra weight in the rear.

1300kg

So 325kg/corner BUT those bags over strut thingies I don't know how to work rates/volumes out for because they've got a strut in the middle! (affects volume but mostly for rates but it's end cap size in the calc, could guess but bugger it, they must have rates somewhere online)

Lift charts are super helpful if you can find em.
I have a full set for my bags hurrah!

If you know the weight (325kg or so ~720lbs) ADD some for you and your gear/missus/mates and then the height (measure) and then look at the chart you will see the approx psi you'll need.
BUT...... (damnit) you'll want to work out any motion ratio as well.
This means it's the distance your car raises vs the amount your bags raise.

A quick lookup shows Rear (0.67) front (1.06) but don't quote me!

So if you're looking at the lift/height chart and see fuck all lift height in the rear don't stress the bag will actually need to do (1/.67) ~1.5 times the lifting so you'll need more psi to bump it up to a respectable level

If you're lucky you'll have a ballpark spring rate at X height. You'll find the different rates at different heights too.

And now you can see how much air you'll need to lift front ride height to "up" for those driveways and from "parked" to ride height.

Just plug in your details to my earlier calculation. That'll let you know how many psi minimum you'll need in your 2 gal tank.

Hopefully you're not as confused as I now feel

Sounds like yours was a proper dog of a pump spencer

If my crude scribblings are close to correct you can imagine plugging sheepers specs into the equation. 5 gal @ 150psi gives you many grams of air (I find it a little easier to think of grams instead of volumes as what does 5 gals of 50 psi potential (above bag inflation psi) actually mean?).

If...... WHO asked the question again? ...... would like to put in their bag specs that'd be good if they have them worked out we can all do a little maths and perhaps get more learned.

If they don't have their specs we can work them out if they have spring rates existing or vehicle corner weights and bag height requirements. Or back to front if they have the bags they want.

It's too late and hot for this but I'll give this a jam.

Min to max lift of biggest bag of mine to 100 psi (lots psi, max lift)

1.6L per airbag x 4 = 6.4L

Lets say 100 psi all round @20 degrees (9.37g/l)

Tank pressure

200 psi @20C (17.54g/l)

17.54g - 9.37g = 8.17g / 9.37g/l = 0.87L (per 100 psi drop per litre tank volume)

6.4/.87 = ~7.36 L (1.94 us gallon tank would balance out bags and tank at 100 psi)

Or am I waaaaaaaaay off

If you want to look at fill rates etc.

http://www.viaircorp.com/480C.html#tabs-3

Down the bottom right is the specs, rates etc.

If you had a light car and a small tank the 480 can run 1.07 CFM @ 100 psi (500cc/sec) so even if you ran out of tank puff the pump is no slouch.

But 2 pumps and a bigger tank is always better, MORE IS MORE!!!!!!!

I'll be starting with a single 480 and a 3 gal tank. Can always add more right

Get your calculator out!

S600.

Well done that man!

Post back here if you grab em and they can close the thread.

Everyone wins

Yes, these are not in the correct location but they totally ARE in the correct location because you sicko's may not look in the "For Sale" part and I want you to get your eyes on these.

I spied two twentys down the scrappies

one is pretty rotton

one is pretty sweet

If you're after something else to do during the xmas break, pick both these up and make one lovely one.

PM for deeets I'm not selling em but I'll point you in the right direction.

I have some.

How much you need

All of the above to make 170 and even more to make 200

The heads are weird.

Unless you want a pinto for some reason then why not go more modern?

The pintos make like 100 hp. I heard the injected heads had better port design at least.

I'm not sure anyone wants that

Friend of mine has a head with the combustion chamber in the head. Ended up taking 5mm or something crazy off the block, the machinist said he'd suck his own dick on queen st if it didn't blow the head off. He was rather surprised when he drove it over to show him.

Thing goes really really well.

Dreadful waste

Good point.

Thankfully heat doesn't conduct through steel.

Heat the whole thing.

Don't heat it red hot!

Grab the coefficient of expansion ofF Google just for giggles.

File mushrooming first and formost as mof and trips said though. Solid advice. (As said above)

Heat fucks up brake drums....

Well that's new. I thought they worked on friction.

I suggest both ideas.

bring the heat

See what makes a difference with your terminal voltages. We're sick people and would welcome knowing what worked for you

I'm going to drink a beer to that rotisserie effort.

I'd like to do the same but I'll break something.... oh and hoist.

Fucking great effort!!!!!!

Economy is a bugger.

Dyno's are your friend but I haven't got near one yet, waiting till the turbo, which I've been super slack about.

I've got a "lean cruise" function on the lunk.

I think I picked about 16.5:1 and it works at set manifold/tp %'s and a delay before starting up of 2 seconds or something.
I fecked about with it a little until I could see it start working and nothing changed, no noticeable drop in torque/speed and my throttle position was the same.

So same speed with less fuel = economy I guess.

With no knock detection I didn't touch the timing tables and they're all "safe".

I think on a dyno you can do these things and feck about with ratio until you see a drop off in torque, and then do it with timing as well

Is plastidip easier to spray and achieve good results with than normal paint?

I ask because I have seen many people use it in places that normal paint could have been a better option

Its better than spray cans but it's still in a spray can so it'll look a bit like it's from a spray can on large panels.

/spraycan

I am but I'm snowed the fuck under

Oh and if I get home I have a wire cup that is getting abused on the underside of the merc that I shouldn't disappoint.

But if a miracle happens I'll PM you
The Light Horse had Asahi on tap but they're closed, boo

1600!!!!!!!
Because radness.
I'd go something japanese over a pinto (shunn the non-believer!!!!!!! shunnn!!!)

I have a homelite one from bunnings.

Makes a litre at a time so no good for jetskis! haha.

Fill to mark with petrol, fill to desired ratio mark with oil.

fucking handy!

was probably $10 or something.

http://www.bunnings.co.nz/homelite-fuel-mixing-container-1l_p00568221

ok or $9.97 if you pay by card