holdenman

Diff change, maybe sedan has higher gearing than wagon?

bigger tires or wheels than stock will make you go faster

1 hour ago, andyztouring said:

Aussie made Nissan Skyline R31 approx 1989.

Cheers for that

They have both left and right facing and are 4 stud 15" - tried searching and can't find a match but thought maybe Sentra or Pulsar, maybes 80's?

Thanks

Thanks for the quick responses.

I went to 2 places and no dice so used some gentle persuasion on it and at least it's still usable and has some fuel in it now. 

It so needs a good run, I bought it as a project and I think I have it ready for it's COF, it had a charging issues with it when i first got it but fixed itself.

I cut some rust out and tidied it up and painted it, fixed a few other minor things. I will go over it again when I finish painting the house in the next couple of weeks I hope

1 hour ago, JoKer said:

that number is your 'key code' (look for a key that matches : not many places stamp them on copies : but I do)

and if that is a Yamaha it's the wrong key (same if it's a Holden)

WD40 is better, there'not a lot to go wrong in there (wafers not pins)

Thanks, It's my 5 tonne Mazda Motorhome (ex bus) and I am running on empty

I gave up using Key codes years ago as no one seemed to keep them, I knew a locksmith when I was a kid who could cut keys by looking at the type of lock and after 3 or 4 alterations, wish I could find one like him now but that art seems to be long gone.

21 minutes ago, igor said:

Does the key go in all the way easily? if so that would suggest that there isn't anything jammed in there. Perhaps try giving it a good soak in CRC 5.56 or similar then try the key again.

key wont go in all the way even CRC and WD40, it goes close tho and makes me think it may be the right key

I am not sure if something is jammed in the hole or it,s the wrong key, this is the first time I have needed to open it since I bought it a couple or so years ago.

I dont mind stuffing the cap but I don't want to make it worse if I had to call a locksmith so your knowledge on how to break into it would be great.

Being full metal I saw some on youtube about how easy the plastic ones are to break into but nothing on full metal ones.

Looking forward to some great pics and videos and they are celebrating 50 years of OSCA

I will be going to all 3 days

http://www.canterburycarclub.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2020-SKOPE-Saloon-Class-List.pdf 

http://www.canterburycarclub.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Schedule-Skope-2020.pdf

9 hours ago, Spencer said:

Need a quantum muffler to have max flow and no noise, 3" size only.

Send a straight pipe vertical, extend it about 3 metres above like a big rig and mabe throw 2-4 coby style rsonators LOL

On 20/01/2020 at 22:39, kpr said:

need all the mufflers to make n/a quiet with big exhaust.   couple of reso's  and  big  non straight through at rear, swap it out for a straight through when going turbo.  i say this, as likely have  a hard time finding non restrictive muffler that shuts it up in 3" for a decent price.        short primary's obviously  aren't great on n/a, but will be fine otherwise 

I don't agree entirely with this as a rule although unsure of the motor in question as many oldschool motors such the Holden sixes are a quiet engine unlike most multi-valve engines. I mention the Holden 6 as it was designed in the 50's, production began in the early 60's and unless it has been worked considerably it doesn't rev very high. Each resonator drops 4dB and more to the point softens the bang.

Is there a meet this month?

Turbos seem to remove a lot of the harsh bark from the exhaust note but some engines make more noise than others. I think bigger N/A exhausts tend to be loud and echo without much exhaust note but glass packed resonators can help take 'bang' out but of course you need room for the 3" and the muffler/resonator so  you may be limited for clearance as if you have 3" under the sill how low is the car going to be or do you scallop the sill?

I really like the glass fibre noise limiters as you can have good unrestricted  flow and they help make a nicer note with rumble.

21 hours ago, kpr said:

what size primary's are on it now?  
so it has a twin 2" system on it?  and going to go to  a single 2.5"? 

you maybe heading on the wrong direction  going bigger primary's,  especially  if downsizing exhaust (twin 2"  is bigger area than single 2.5")

No one had used twin system on these for many years so thought I would try it but to get it to sound like the old ones it needs to be a bit smaller, maybe 1 5/8"

I made a twin 2" system to try then dropped to single 2" to get my WOF which runs ok considering the primaries are so small but I know I can get better with bigger primaries.

Current Primaries are about 32mm but I need 38 to get close to the port size, and make the first 2 collectors  2" then into a 2.5" with no muffler but 1 fibreglass resonator or maybe 2 just to take the sharpness away.

I think I could find my way to this in the VKrak

I will be going down this route again soon on my 3.3 Commy.

I had a pair of 2" but was a bit too much bark so will do a single 2.5 soon. The current setup up sounds ok but the primaries are too small as I made a set of 202 headers fit my 12-port 3.3. The 202 headers sound much nicer IMO than the EFI as they take the front 3 into and 1 and rear 3 into 1 with a longish runner before collecting which gives it a nice rumble.

I would like to make a custom set with bigger pipe all the way through. I find when the exhaust is slightly smaller it tends to give it the desired rumble in the car but can sound a bit squeezed out the rear. I hope this makes sense?

Does this sound any good or do I just go big and loud??