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RS2J

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  1. On the home straight of sanding now. One side done up to 600 grit, the other up to 120. 

     

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    Next up will be heat treatment. Still yet to build the legs for the mini forge, but the burner is now complete - also visible in the above pic. The non burny end of the burner has the following assembly - pretty much just a valve and a couple of brass bits fitted/brazed together to attach a standard BBQ hose and fit it to the 15mm steel pipe. Have a couple of oriface options with a 0.8mm and 1.0mm option. Can just buy more caps and have different sized holes drilled if necessary :)

    At the end of the day its just an oversized Bunsen Burner - hopefully enough to heat the forge up to the 800 degrees I need toe knife to reach before dunking it in oil :D

     

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  2. So then is it heat treatment time? So was that just

    File the bevel on then remove the file marks with the paper? What oil you useing for heat treatment?

     

    Yeah, I should have followed up the bastard cut and second cut filing with a smooth cut file. Some of these file marks are a bit of a pain to remove even with 120 grit. once I've finished it to a reasonable standard, i'll heat treat after I've built the burner for my mini forge. Plan is either Canola or Peanut oil - whichever is cheapest that I can buya couple of litres in bulk. Then back to sanding up to 800 grit for a nice satin finish. Then its handle time, followed by sharpening and murders - I mean slicing onions. I may acid etch the blade with ferric chloride or hot vinegar before I put the handle on though. At least help a bit with corrosion resistance being carbon steel. 

  3. We use quite a bit of gauge plate at work so was thinking that could be a go. But was thinking some tooling stainless could be better?

     

    Stainless can be a bit of a bitch to have heat treated. If you can find someone who can heat treat 440C thats what they recommend to start with. Remember that the steel you use must be able to hardened in order for it to take a decent edge. O1 tool steel, 1070 or 1084 are usually the ones they recommend for beginners - simple carbon steels. The 1095 i'm using is a bit less forgiving they reckon.

     

    Highly recommend looking up Walter Sorrells and Gough Customs on youtube and watching some vids.

  4. I also had the same issue back in the day with my old '75 MkII. As above, we had to modify a manual crossmember to reach across the tunnel. Passed WOF's for a few years until it got picked up and they demanded a cert. The car was only worth about $500 WOF'd and Reg's back in the day so sold it to a guy on a farm and it lived out its days as a paddock hack for his kids to learn on.

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