MaxPower

i brought one of these off here, its currently getting paddock bashed due to rust and fucked shocks, but its manual so if it ever blows up theres some cheap parts for yours, panels are\were pretty good.

Hi can I change the 14” rims to 16” rims Without any worries on a 95 Toyota dyna? It’s got a hubo and cof etc. only gets 90kmph before the engine noise gets to me. Cheers and sorry for new car question.

Just now, RUNAMUCK said:

@MaxPower?

Can do if need be had a good time that year

Going to be leaving this one standard for anyone concerned. It’s to good condition to butcher cheers. 

On 30/05/2020 at 16:08, bigfoot said:

I have a low km auto box if you want one

Pm’d

Won’t be selling it or buying it to make money I just like buying shitty old mitsis 

Just now, ajg193 said:

How much would you sell it for if you got it off him for 4k?

 

$500?

Cheers guys, it’s just a person who has taken it to a dealership to get it valued not a dealership selling it, have quite a few old Mitsubishi’s in the shed so have a bit of an idea of where to look etc. hope the guy isn’t too stubborn on trying to fetch top $. It isn’t exactly a desirable vehicle 

hi guys i left a note on a old ladys windscreen a couple of years ago and her friend gave me a call today asking me if i would like to buy it this weekend, he said a stealership valued it at $4500-$6500. 

its travelled 105,000km. I think I would pay up to $4000 if its factory as wof reg.

gone are the days of buying these for a few hundred for a minter and paining it matt black.

what do you think? cheers

26 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Any thoughts on Plasma Cutters?

 

This is on sale for $600 right now

https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/3139-toolshed-plasma-cutter-40-amp

i just brought that same one haven't used it yet but it looks like junk straight out of the box, may return it for the boc one for similar price, the hand piece on the tool shed one looks really chinise and the consumables look rubbish. but the tool shed one does come with a 3? year warranty 

4 hours ago, Thphantum said:

How much?

$1500. or some roofing materials..

29 minutes ago, Boatie said:

Crikey...i have just found online an old advert I put in beaded wheels around 28 years ago

 

its for sale if interested. have found another vintage vehicle I would rather play around with, have original tags and plates for it, doors need re-wooding, has no motor and box. cheers for looking

found out why my 13bt diesel was cutting out when hitting boost above 15psi, was a little electric valve leaking that sits down by the starter motor, it controls a flap in the intake so that it was cutting airflow off to the engine completely when on song, took me ages to figure out and goes good now. the other issue I'm having is winding the fuel screw in doesn't seem to make any difference? it can be wound right in but doesn't seem to make a difference.

spade with the handle cut off, then into a ss bucket hauled up on a rope and pulley. same way to get out just pull myself up on the rope

1 hour ago, rusty360 said:

Are ya still digging in the hole? That must be tricky what's the diameter of the hole. Great work thou!

still digging, 1050 od , 900 id hole thanks

the later vans 88+ had no full chassis but the front end still unbolts if you get what i mean, if your only after the front end\crossmember 

the spindles are different on the early stuff compared to the later ones, not much different but different,  the vans have a full removable front suspension unit which is probably why they were popular, if using ute spindles on a van front end the brakes end up at the front of the wheel not the rear. rock auto has lots of parts under dodge d50. my advice would be to stay away front the early 80's front ends (small brakes)

cool yes for cert, no to dodgy welding, never looked to see if the other arms would fit just guessed they would be different, thanks for your guys advice.