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Cheers shgwag! Glad you're enjoying seeing and reading it. Yeah I went hard out on this build. Definitely couldn't do it as a student

Yeah I got that book at home. It states that if you remove the airbag components you need to go to the front towers in "y" formation. I rang Terry from msnz in Wellington he said the rule has not changed and it's fine to fix to the front towers the only rule is requiring it for cars that will be removing airbag and remaining street legal.

Only reason I rang is I'm helping a friend put a cage in his s15 and he's going through to the front towers

Oh that's good to know. Do you know we're I can find the information on the rule change? Just that a good friend of mine might want to know that

I'm actually not sure it was built a while ago now probably a year. I don't see why they wouldn't allow it. It makes the car handle better and I'm sure it wouldn't make it any less safe. I know if you're running a street car that had or has factory airbag you have to go through to the front towers to retain it for street use as its what had to be done in my mates fd3s

Another big spend up. This time for the turbo, bov and Wastegate.

First off was the turbo. It's a Garrett 3582r with a 1.06 rear. Some people said it might be a bit small but I'm not chasing massive power I'd rather a reponsive reliable power range

Then I went for tial for the bov and Wastegate. 50mm bov and I went for a 60mm for the Wastegate. The reason I went for 60 was that tial only make a 44 then they go up to 60. Rotarys flow a lot of exhaust so thought it'd be safer to go bigger

Enough of me typing here's some pics

Went out and spent some cash. Got my camber and toe arms from rhdjapan.com they are supernow. Also got a set of bc golds

So I made a lockable stand for the motor. Since it will be sitting for a wee while before she goes in

Also my old block came with a lightweight flywheel so I took it to a local business in town to give it a skim and balance it...

Then brought myself a clutch. Something not overly un drivable because it still needs to be street driven so I went for a single plate setup

As you can see from the above picture I got my father to machine up a rx7 specific clutch alignment rod

Cheers sparkle and ragtop. Yeah kiwi808 the wiring was a nightmare honestly after I removed all that I'm suprised it all actually still works! Been running the car a couple months now with no electical issues

Spent a bit of time under the bonnet removing the last few bits. Welding and bogging up some un used holes like the old heater holes then we hit the hole car with a heavy solids primer.

Oh and before we primed the car I scotched the rollcage then used a wattles etch spray can primer then we coated that with the h.s primer

Time came to really get stuck into the panel work we finished up the rear guards then ended up giving the front guards a skim along with the doors. I also brought a set of series 5 tail light, s5 front bumper and front indicators

Can't wait to see it going man its looking great!

Cheers Richard glad I joined up to these forums! Next time you're down definitely man hoping to get it retuned end of the month

So my orginal plan with the engine setup was going to be a factory new fd3s block from mazda. Then run some sweet bolt on for a nice reliable setup. But after pricing one up and talking with Warren from PPRE I ended up getting a new race block from them for a good deal! Things getting pretty serious

It's a bridge port block. 3 mm seals and doweling

Got the loom all sorted. This job was massive I had a lot of help from a good mate of mine as wiring is not my strong point. The first picture is what I'm left with now and the second is the wiring that's been removed. Note this is not the engine side just the car loom for electrics etc.

Done the gearbox mounts first. Was a easy straight forward unbolt/bolt in application.

The engine mounts on the other hand required a press so I took them into work and pressed out the old mounts. Then got the gas torch onto them to clean off the old leftover rubber then bolted the new mounts in

It took a couple weeks but my log book arrived and the rollcage passed homologation first pop

Also this turned up

R-magic semi rigid engine and gearbox mounts

Now the rollcage is complete and waiting on homologation I started sorting out some bits from Japan and pulled out my front knuckles to get c's garage to modify them for more lock

These are the modified knuckles and the before and after photos of the amount of lock

The next big mission was the rear setup on the rollcage. I decided for a x pattern between the rear laterals and the harness bar below them then one diagonal in the main hoop. On the harness bar I welded some stoppers to prevent the belts from moving along the bar.

Then I decided to go through the front of the car with two bars to the front towers. It was a much bigger job than I thought it would be but I'm glad I done it. Mainly cutting a lot of holes so I could fully weld everything correctly was the biggest problem. Here's a few snaps off the bar setup

After all that was complete we put the cage back up tacked and welded the hoop and plates in place and used a porterpower to push the laterals back into the body of the car. Then welded everything up including the side intrusions and dash bar. Then we made and welded in the rear laterals

Also stitched the cage to the body of the car in several places

I took the car to my old man's work because it had better gear for the next step.

First thing we had to do was weld as much as possible of the underside of the roof setup.

After this was done we removed the dash bar. Cut tacks and removed the footing plate for the main hoop. Then we used a strop to pull the front laterals inwards to get them onto the floor and dropped the hoop through the floor (I had holesawed holes prior to tacking hoop in) then welded up the top complete off the roof setup so everything was 360° welded

I made a dash bar up but only sat it in place and made up the corner brace bars off the front screen bar