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Bluebird_U

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Posts posted by Bluebird_U

  1. If you want to handle more HP then you could stay with the R180 but look for a WRX STI diff and stub axles adapters. The usual problems when looking for the R160/ R180/ R200 diffs (CLSD/ VLSD) are the spline count (25/ 27) between nissan or subaru, if circlips are needed/ how they bolt together, and if you want to go CV or not. 

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  2. Ended up with a new battery as the old one was not the best and car is running again. Will also keep an eye on it to make sure it charging/ working right, and also check the alternator etc because Im sure theres other gremlins hiding in the electrical system and might be hidden by the new battery. Thanks for all your replies and I'll owe all beer or similar for the help.

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  3. Looks like you guys are right. Hooked up the old ride and jumped it straight away and went for about a 10km blast to get a bit of charge into the battery. Got home and parked up off the road and went to start again - dead (or at least not enough juice to turn it over) so it looks like I'll get out tomorrow night and get it running to test then whip the battery out. When it was running the lights would dim/ flicker when braking so hope its not the alternator as well - will check the earths/ belts.

    Cheers

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  4. Thanks for the replies. Spent a bit of time with it tonight and noted a few other things with the electrics that might point to the issue.

    • Now there are no lights on the dash, radio doesnt work, no indicators or lights,
    • Central locking not working, but can hear the motor? trying hard to make a noise,
    • Interior light does work but is flickering,
    • Hazard lights dont work but still makes a sound,
    • Cant turn engine over.

    Now for the positive... yeah there is some... got the multi meter out to test the voltage in the engine bay,

    • From the battery to the cable into the engine fuse box, the fuses, and out there is power
    • Starter motor cables are tight

    Annnd thats about it at the moment.

    Will track down a charger to make sure the battery has got as much juice as it can handle and sand all the terminals/ clamps to see if theres a difference, other than that I'll start pulling interior fuses to check condition. Could there be an issue with the ignition?

  5. Hi, I've currently got a pov-spec 1993 Honda Civic (D15b manual, non vtec, non computer) for DD duties. The issue is that after two days on non use on the weekend i went to start and there was only a click and no cranking.

    Bit of back history - about 6 months ago it had a similar problem where it wouldn't start by key and I had to park on hills so that it could be rolled/ clutch dumped and eventually got round to hitting the starter and it seemed to fix the issue. Last week after a day sitting out in the rain it would crank, crank, crank but would not fire (this may be a separate issue). Eventually got a tow and after a while it fired and seemed to be running fine.

    On Monday went to start it:

    • Lights on the dash,
    • Turn the key and the lights went out
    • Car stayed in the same place and no cranking

    So have had another look again tonight and tested the electrics starter with a hammer and noted that there was an occasional click (but no cranking). The dash lights were bright until turning the key and then were very dim (it was dark). Tested the voltage of the battery and it was about 12.8v. When its light I will check the cables just to make sure theres not a bolt loose.

    Does anyone out there with a honda out there come across this type of problem, or are there any common failures that would lead to this? Or are the starters the same (or each one model specific)?

    Thanks 

  6. The next couple of years should be a bit bigger - just with the extra time off (Friday/ Monday) giving a good long weekend. Always seems to be fine and this year they moved the food around a bit to make it easier to get to - although more icecream stalls needed. Think his times were 67.23, 71. 00, 78.91, 80.35 (1972 Datsun 1600). Nice photos.

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  7. The design and printing of the engine is great - and causing all sorts of problems in the brain with ideas vs reality and no skill what so ever, but with regard to the images showing the poring of the crank case, the vents around where the piston liners show 3 on one side but not on the other whereas the rest seems symmetrical? Are they just not shown or is the flow/ pore path through the wall and top close enough so they are not required. Would you have any recommendations for books for forms and casting for dummies? 

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  8. Ha ha, probably should have worded it more along the lines of "those who like spending time in the open air short term spare parts storage locations, generally known as wreckers yards or if you do it yourself then practice areas where breaking something wont wreak your daily. 

    Yeah pretty sure it is a D22 (PD22). Just want to confirm the engine KA20 not NA20 and see if anyone could pick up the distributor and the plugs/ wiring.

    If it is the right one I can put through some moneys to your bank and add some extra for some liquids to help with the weekend.

     

    Cheers for the local members bigfoot.

  9. Pretty sure that most of the datsun barrels are the same - its just the plastic connector and "T" key at the back has different positions but depending on the wiring plug/ order the whole lot might be able to be swapped out.

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  10. Saw this over on Retro rides - had to check that it wasn't 1st April!!

    Hate to think that our government will suddenly think that because the aussies can do it that they can go one better. I understand that asbestos is really bad shit, but the procedures etc..

    https://ferraris-online.com/pages/article.php?reqart=FOC_201707_SS2

    http://www.personalimport.com.au/asbestos-parts-imported-motor-vehicles-australia-prohibited/

  11. Saw an early rolla coupe and two early civic's going north out of Rotorua today in convoy - japanese guys driving and covered is racing stickers, plates and possibly targa numbers. No photos cause I had to drive :( 

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