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sr2

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Posts posted by sr2

  1. On 21/01/2024 at 12:08, Kayzee said:

    A25FF56D-2AB0-4C64-9F8C-DE90E16AF434.jpeg.2f4724ab48c4564fba0147f781efbca0.jpegDavid 

    Cairns, Australia 

    Toyota Sprinter 

    KE55 Corolla coupe

    Daihatsu Compagno Spider

    1948 Bedford PC utility 

    Lotus 7 replica

    googling Compagno

    9324A42D-6430-404B-8DD4-507BFA7FAD66.jpeg

    Bloody Hell, not another friggin Ozzy! (Luv the ute - I'm a Vauxhall nut from way back).

  2. 18 hours ago, tortron said:

    You can get all those trafficators going again. It's usually the shellac on the windings is failed and shorting. Fairly straightforward to rewind by hand, not too many wild turkeys cos there's 700 odd coils

    Could be a good winter project, any idea on what resistance the windings should be?

    I've been thinking of buying some flashing LED's for them  https://classiccarparts.co.nz/classic-car-led-12v-self-flashing-36mm-semaphore-trafficator-amber-led-slimline-256-12v36flash

  3. If you're using a toggle switch you'll need a single pole double throw. I'd use a double pole/double throw ( https://www.jaycar.com.au/dpdt-6a-240vac-heavy-duty-centre-off-standard-toggle-switch/p/ST0576 ) so you can double up the contacts and not need to run a relay, i.e. keep it simple.

    If you can confirm the terminals were correct in my previous post I'll draw you up a circuit diagram and a simple wiring schematic.

    • Like 1
  4. No offence but yes it is mumbo-jumbo. I'm by no means an expert but I have drawn up the circuit diagrams and rewired a reasonable number of cars over the years.

    To solve Flash's problem all we need to do is figure out the wiring configuration of the 4 wire L300 wiper motor. At that stage I can draw up a circuit diagram using the odd relay, diode, timer, etc. to interface with any cool, oldschool switch he can find.

    • Like 2
  5. 1 hour ago, Flash said:

    @sr2 thanks for the reply Simon. Looks like Mitsubishi do something different as earthing the body and then cycling +12 volts through the other wires yields no results on three of the wires and sparks on the 4th wire.

    OK. So my guess at this stage is that......

    C should be your permanent earth (i.e. negative).

    +ve power to B should give you low,

    positive power to D should give you High,

    and a permanent (i.e. from the ignition switch) +ve supply to A will power the self park.

     

    Give it a test and tell us the results.

    • Like 2
  6. 3 hours ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

    A shunt resistor will let you run the 20A ammeter, just be aware of parasitic load if it's connected all the time?
    Will depend on value of shunt resistor, only 12V pushing it so anything over 1kohms total resistance (including parallel meter resistance) means you're looking at milliamps...

    https://www.rohm.com/electronics-basics/resistors/shunt-resistors

     

    Please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you used voltage drop across a shunt resistor to calculate the amps? (i.e. I'd need to use a volt meter).

  7. 5 hours ago, Flash said:

    You did a top job on the gauges Simon and the ignition switch is an absolute work of art. You just can't beat that vintage look.

    Quick question for you regarding the Nissan wiper motor that you used. Do you know what model Nissan it came out of?  I played around with a few options for the Thames, but I'm not that happy with my current setup so I'm thinking of doing a rework and your setup looks ideal.

    Hi mate, the wiper motor was off a Nissan Tilda C11 (2004 to 2011 I think?).

    • Like 1
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