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sr2

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Posts posted by sr2

  1. Being a Holden 6 cyl. junkie from way back I’m loving your build, nothing better than a pink HQ with a 6 in it! The HQ master cylinders were never the world’s most reliable and when combined with the big single diaphragm Mastervac booster they were best described as being only adequate. I could never figure why they didn’t fit a tandem booster as BPR were supplying them for other Aussie cars at the time.

    The bad news is that brake fluid in your booster is usually fatal, there’s a small indentation in the booster body where the m/cyl is mounted that is supposed to act as a drain in the event of a m/cyl failure. If the fluid has been leaking out from there you may get away with replacing the input seal; if fluid has made its way through to the booster it’s a matter of when rather than if the booster diaphragm fails. Easiest way to check for fluid in the booster is to remove the vacuum check valve and grommet and poke your finger in there - (I could make a rude innuendo but I won’t!).

    You can still get HQ booster kits (diaphragm, input & pushrod seal and reaction disk) in Aussie, I haven’t bought a kit for a while so can’t guess the price but the m/cyl’s are bloody expensive. My preferred fix is to fit a Commodore VT to Vx M/cyl and Booster. You need to make up a firewall spacer/adaptor but it’s a simple modification, the pedal feel is improved with the tandem diaphragm Mastervac and the parts are cheap as chips 2nd hand.

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  2. On 21/01/2024 at 12:08, Kayzee said:

    A25FF56D-2AB0-4C64-9F8C-DE90E16AF434.jpeg.2f4724ab48c4564fba0147f781efbca0.jpegDavid 

    Cairns, Australia 

    Toyota Sprinter 

    KE55 Corolla coupe

    Daihatsu Compagno Spider

    1948 Bedford PC utility 

    Lotus 7 replica

    googling Compagno

    9324A42D-6430-404B-8DD4-507BFA7FAD66.jpeg

    Bloody Hell, not another friggin Ozzy! (Luv the ute - I'm a Vauxhall nut from way back).

  3. 18 hours ago, tortron said:

    You can get all those trafficators going again. It's usually the shellac on the windings is failed and shorting. Fairly straightforward to rewind by hand, not too many wild turkeys cos there's 700 odd coils

    Could be a good winter project, any idea on what resistance the windings should be?

    I've been thinking of buying some flashing LED's for them  https://classiccarparts.co.nz/classic-car-led-12v-self-flashing-36mm-semaphore-trafficator-amber-led-slimline-256-12v36flash

  4. If you're using a toggle switch you'll need a single pole double throw. I'd use a double pole/double throw ( https://www.jaycar.com.au/dpdt-6a-240vac-heavy-duty-centre-off-standard-toggle-switch/p/ST0576 ) so you can double up the contacts and not need to run a relay, i.e. keep it simple.

    If you can confirm the terminals were correct in my previous post I'll draw you up a circuit diagram and a simple wiring schematic.

    • Like 1
  5. No offence but yes it is mumbo-jumbo. I'm by no means an expert but I have drawn up the circuit diagrams and rewired a reasonable number of cars over the years.

    To solve Flash's problem all we need to do is figure out the wiring configuration of the 4 wire L300 wiper motor. At that stage I can draw up a circuit diagram using the odd relay, diode, timer, etc. to interface with any cool, oldschool switch he can find.

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, Flash said:

    @sr2 thanks for the reply Simon. Looks like Mitsubishi do something different as earthing the body and then cycling +12 volts through the other wires yields no results on three of the wires and sparks on the 4th wire.

    OK. So my guess at this stage is that......

    C should be your permanent earth (i.e. negative).

    +ve power to B should give you low,

    positive power to D should give you High,

    and a permanent (i.e. from the ignition switch) +ve supply to A will power the self park.

     

    Give it a test and tell us the results.

    • Like 2
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