Jorden

100% chance that needs to be stripped and cleaned before welding and then surfaced, you could be a cheap bastard and epoxy it? Assuming that it hasn't cracked thru to the bore as the pic makes it look that way?

correct owned by a guy in chch looks the exact same 

BOC value for money 

2000 is fine for sure, if RJP is open they sell a 3000 thin finishing pad that goes on a DA and preps well for cutting

Cheers Chris appreciate it, will be ringing up as soon as we are free again 

removed the factory radio because I can't hear it over the exhaust anyway and installed the three gauges, water temp, oil press, oil temp. Still need to find a place to mount fuel pressure

recommendations for a dyno tuner/carb guy to get this thing to its full potential? i am in CHCH. 

I had a couple of mates come over to help put the steering box, brake booster and then motor and trans in. Everything went together fairly easily. Before i painted the car i split the factory looms that usually ran across the firewall, extended them and ran them along the crossmemeber and under the guards etc to hide them.

youll also notice the extra bumper.... strength in the first photo 

When i first bought the motor it was dry sumped, i fucked that off because i didnt really need it and went to wet sump. The block doesnt have provisions for a spin on filter, so im running a remote System 1 filter you can see on the passenger side.

i had the car running with that motor, and before the kaikoura hop i went to do an oil change and found a lot of bearing in the oil. It all got pulled out, rebuilt, and then i lost a lot of motivation to put it all back together.

January this year, my friend asked if we could get it ready for his wedding in april, i said yea why not.

Here are photos of the panel process, i couldnt find the exact factory blue, so decided on a colour with a bit more of a pop to it. I decided to do the engine bay and door jams all at the same time. Came out alright, it was my second time playing with BC/CC and was lucky enough to get to paint it at work. Most of the car was straight anyway, i had to get the rear window removed to attack some rust, the rest happened really quickly.

i had a heap on my escort, used some 2000 wet and dry then cutting compound, worked fine, no need for anything fancy

2 hours ago, cletus said:

Are you bothered about noise/ drone/ being legal etc?

Negative

Whatever is going to get the most out of the engine 

Yea I should be able to fit 3.5" under there, the headers sit fairly low so it'll sit above the level of those, and I can tuck it in the tunnel a bit.

So 3" at worst, 3.5 is better, and if I could fit 4" would that be the best? 

Different I'm pretty sure mate, mainly found in mustangs, broncos etc American stuff, but I could be wrong 

I'm about to build the exhaust for my new v8. It is a 393, at a guestimate 550 hp at the crank. 

I have to run a single system in the xf as the fuel tank gets in the way on the passengers side.

It'll just be running through one flowmaster super 44.

I have twin 3" collectors, what size system is going to be best? 

Enford be worth a try aswell, got a full set of bushes for my Anglia off them 

Think youve hit the nail on the head there. Too easy huh!

Yeap havent heard too many good things about RPM, new ones it is. Thanks guys

These shaft mounted rockers came with my 393. One of the shafts the rocker moves on has broken and i need to buy another.

No branding on them but most ive seen online dont either, have found quite a few that look similar (crower) etc, but for the life of me cannot find out what they are.

Do any of you guys recognise them? 

if you need any more pics to help ya let me know and ill be able to take some

thoughts on the new combination team

Would love to keep the stacks somehow, ill find a tunnel ram for it one day   

Got to buy headers and a carb for it, Thinking a mechanical secondary 850cfm, what do you guys reckon? Its a 393 that should have around 550hp

11 hours ago, SOHC said:

NO FOR GODS SAKE NO

 

I don't mean to offend but a 2001 Ford Mondau is the most shit car money can buy, it was cheep because its shit, they are crap motors,  it will be rooted, they chug oil.

Get a price on a thermostat, you will find its worth more than the whole car and that is no joke.   

where you getting your information from mate? Seems interesting that 90% of the modified anglia scene in the UK swap this exact engine in, now, if theyre so shit why would they do that? 

The car has less than 100thou kms on it and is absolutely fine.

This site never ceases to amaze me.

Swap will be going ahead 

guy has the trans in at a shop getting checked out so should know sometime this week, will post in here as soon as i know 

Hey team

Im looking at buying a complete driveline to swap into my XF. 

Consists of a 550hp windsor, c4 and an LSD 9 inch. Now the 9 inch has 3:1 ratio gears, how would this be on the street? Ill just be running eagers all round.

And can i change crown wheel/pinion on it to change the ratio or would it be easier/have to buy a new head to swap in?

This is the best tool chest/kit i can find for around the grand mark, had a read through this thread and seems to be a mixed opinion about king tony.

http://www.georgehenry.co.nz/shop/Everyday+Low+Price/King+Tony+9+Drawer+236pc+Tool+Kit.html

Its got a heaps of sockets which is ideal, and has what looks to be three small drawers free for adding extras.

Currently getting a few kincrome ones priced up through from bunnings as mum works there which means discount 

You guys reccomend any other kits? Just for round home/engine swaps/fixing fords