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Fat Dan

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Posts posted by Fat Dan

  1. i cant beleive this hasnt been b ought up....mk3 supras are at rock bottom right now, i got my 3.0turbo aerotop with blown auto slushbox for 1800, ive had two subsequent parts cars for free both of which would have knocked me back 500-1000 if it was a skid family nissan, since ive owned mine, (2.5 yrs) mk4 prices have damn near doubled and the mk3s are just starting to follow suit

    some people are starting to realise the mk3 was better than "the plastic fantastic" mk4 (this coming from people who owned both at the same time) truely a modern classic

    /biased

     

    • Like 3
  2. The early half of the production run on these is pretty fucking yuck. I also enjoy a facelift A70.

    Say no to blue or maroon interiors.

    Narrow body also gross, t top - gross, pre facelift tail lights - gross. Factory wheel fitment on widebody - gross. 7MGTE - gross.

    mine ticks all the yuck boxes, PFL for the win, FL taillights are ghey, 7mgte is a good looking engine though, its got that going for it... i guess

     

     

    More just wanted to know if I was only homo trying to pass one off as oldschool hahaha

    Dont worry bro, i must be  a homo too, but hey my ma70 is 30 years old nek year, you cant find 7m parts easily and they have horrible interior colour options, sounds oldschool to me,.but my build thread got moved and i got all butthurt and stopped updating  cos i thought no one was into it..

    lawl

    • Like 2
  3. new knock sensor, cleared all the fault codes, goes immensely better sounds better even, but still not quite right, but i am happy 

    biggest suprise was that bloody HAC sensor, turns out its not something to do with A/C whoops lol

  4. google reveals that pre much erry toyota runs the same sensor, mint
     

    12 Engine speed (RPM) sensor -circuit Wiring, RPM sensor,ECM

    43 Starter signal -circuit Wiring, ignition switch, ECM

    starter signal is likely my nuetral switch bypass

    trying not to worry bout 12, tacho seems to work accurately, speedo is waay under, something to do with that

    Hopefully

  5. got the codes 12, 43 and 52 ( and a couple of air flow meter ones from when i tried to start it without the AFM plugged in) think this is my ticket here..

    " Code 52 will ***** the timing and enrich fuel mixture. It's an electrical problem with the knock sensor circuit and is generally an easy fix. The 52 will make your car hog gas and sluggish/hate boost. Definitely noticeable."

    car is definitely running super rich costs me 50 bucks to drive from pukekohe to manakau... and one of my knock sensors is actually broken, i figured it wouldnt matter.. guess it does, anyone know if i can just loop the wires and fool the ecu into thinking theres a knock sensor there or will i actually have to replace the sensor? only asking bout the hori way as i imagine finding a new one will be difficult/ just fucking expensive #apprenticelyfe

  6. inb4 bhg machine

    Right after manual converting my mk3 ive had issues in high rpm getting towards full boost

    i can hit full boost in low rpm- its definitely not overboosting

    Vacuum sits bang on 20, if its anything like an rb its spot on.

    Ive gone around replacing any questionable hoses etc and whilest it did make quite a noticeable improvement i still cant really hit full boost without it cutting and spitting and farting

    the check engine light has been on ever since i did the conversion (which i removed the engine for) i assume its merely something to to do with the fact that the auto box had its own loom and ecu and its picking up that the tranny is no longer there (will run a diagnostics to confirm)

    My old rb had a similiar issue and it turned out to be the coils it did have a bit of a miss though, supra runs "perfectly" however untill, full boost

    any one have fresh ideas? i imagine it will be something stupid

  7. The only other motor going in my supra is a 2j yo but will bowl with the 7m till she dies, already Sussed some easy power upgrades, and am retorquing the head nek weekend, she should prove reasonably reliable chaps. Then its time to rock up to Oldschool meets and troll the bastard that thinks my poopra ain't oldschool

  8. replaced the fucked coils, played around with a dodgy lead "new" AFM, got the bitch running miiinter, trans shifts reaaal well for a fucked box, ALL positions are drive even N and P though lol no reverse at all, made for  a fun day.. cant figure out if its slow or just auto trans rubbish.. anyone have an M series manual conversion?

  9. dirt fucking cheap. wof and reggy still too, bought it fully knowing the implications  of the 7m, factored the price of a headgasket into the decision of buying it even. i jsut cant say so no to the burgundy heaven that is the cockpit

    Ill have a crack at replacing the  headgasket if need be, how bad can it really be? (famous last words!)

  10. Been off the forums for  while..(lost a bit of excess weight) parted out my old e70 wags and built a r32 skyline (wtf was I thinking). I got ran off the road by some dork trying to pass on a blind corner and wrote off m daily vt commy hack, got paid out and found a new toy.. so im back...
    with a mark 3 supra (WTF am I STILL thinking)

    Specs

    7MGTEU (inb4 Yuck)
    Digital Dash (fuck yeer)
    Porno spec red leather interior (oh so lush)
    TEMS suspension(lol)
    Targa top (cause chassis flex is legiiiit)
    Electric everything (cos I REAALY love wires)


    Prrroblems

    Has Auto trans.(lame)
    trans is also blown (getting better ;) )
    front seats are average as fuck
    Motor is running on 4/5 cylinders and don't want to rev over a grand at all (any 7m gurus out there?)
    rough rear quarter

    Plan is to get her running properly again manual convert and just look cool as fuck with the T-top off.

    Moar pics to follow when its not raining

     

    post-17394-0-36432500-1422769092_thumb.jpg

    post-17394-0-50315100-1422769514_thumb.jpg

    • Like 3
  11. Flow directions will matter.

    The hot water will need to be coming to the side of the thermostat with the wax thingy in it. I.e The bottom of this picture. As this is the bit that makes the thermostat open.

    If the hot water is hitting the top of the closed thermostat then the thermostat won't be opening.

     

    Thats how i see it anyway. Maby switch around the hose connections so hot water will be hitting the other side of thermostat.

     

    41IedG4OLGL.jpg

     

     

     

    Edit: Beaten by spenno

    Perfect. cheers guys, pretty sure this will be my problem, my fucking old man (who has built three hotrods himself) told me it shouldnt matter, bastard

  12. sup hombres

    Flow directions in remote thermostat housings, does it matter? im doofying up a (possibly/probably) ae92/ae82 remote thermo into my 4ag ke70 and the thermostat doesnt appear to be playing nicely, i have tested the thermostat in a pot of water before it went in and it opened and closed sweet as.. radiator is out of a nissan, kept an SR18 cool, and up untill i put in the thermostat kept my 4ag cool too, now, even at idle it will warm up over 100, water pipe going in to thermo is hot, water pipe going out is not..thoughts, opinions?

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