4AGEMAD

Suspension arrived today Straight after work got stuck in fitting a set of bug eye steering arms along with the front coilovers. Comparison pic, bug eye arm left, Slant front arm right. As you can see the kingpin inclination angle is set differently. Barry at MRP did an amazing job with these, custom camber adjustable top hats, adaptor sleeves fillet welded to original hubs then sent away for magnetic crack testing. Car looks in a bit of a mess at the moment since work has been on a major halt due to the lack of front suspension. More interesting stuff tomorrow.

Been a little while since anything solid has happened, cleaned down all my engine parts and started assembling. Painted block and fitted new brass frost plugs for more bling. Cleaned with white spirits, hence the rust looking colour. Mucked around for a few hours customizing the factory brackets to fit my new Momo Corse, will dye it black at some stage. Head needs 8 new valve shims to suit the cams & block needs stripping again to re-bore for what i found to be oversized pistons.... stupid mistake, real f!@#ed off about it but ahwell, theres about a month and a half lead time on the rwd cooling kit and g-box adapter plate anyways. Heres hoping that my suspension arrives next week!!

Also check out rollaclub. Hoeeaps of info there

Good point, ill have it 6/6 and see how it goes. Ive also herd that fitting a rear sway bar to kp's induces oversteer.

With the setup im using in the rear, its the same setup as factory but adjustable height shock and coil perch. So the spring sits flat on one end and normal at the other. ONCE the crack tester gets their a into g ill chat to a few spring specialists and see what they can do. As for the front ill go with what you say and start off at 6kg's.

Tried getting lower spring rates but mrp can only do lower fronts not rears.. Would it be advisable to have near 6kg springs all round similar to what you have done kpr or try for even lower?

Yes I have

Will be used for mainly drift. Coilovers are for an ae86 hence the higher spring rates. 8kg fronts/6kg rears btw. Will be doing more r&d once shes going. Im sure there will be a few things that I wont like but wont know till then

Not wanting 'full grip' as it were mate Running either 6 or 8 kg springs in the rear so not too durastic. But yeah it'll be at a sensible low, nothing crazy (famous last words). I'll be adding a set of traction brackets to help though I am wary that itll stuff things up even worse since im repositioning 2 arms rather than the four?

Kp rear has inward pointing upper arms. With the suspension I am using, there will be heavily reduced suspension travel compared to factory so this should minimize wear/possible bind etc. But damn T3 has a hefty price tag on those arms! will have to wait a little while so the wallet doesnt shrivel up.

Cheers all for your inputs, you guys are the best! I've decided i'll purchase the T3 links, i'll be running quite stiff 86 rear adjustables. Will line everything up and go through the motions of travel to check for binding etc, i'm still wary of wear/breaking etc. Might possibly add poly bushes but will see how it all feels. Thanks again

Anyone got pics of the kp in the magazine? Hows this build going Callum

Im not worried about road noise, just want something that will give me a direct feel but not wanting components to fail. Kp's run a triangulated 4 link.

Thanks again for the input, solid information there. Was on the verge of getting the poly/rose joint kit when I got this email from t3: I'm sorry, this is not something we plan to offer. We have been making 4 links for 15 years now, and have sold thousands of sets. So far no cracked floors or torn mounts. I've run the setup on my personal KP61 for 10 years now. We do use teflon lined massive 3 piece rod ends, so they are not noisy. Go figure, I am running adjustable suspension in the rear also so it will be a lot stiffer but with that said there will still be movement. I feel that I may just get the T3 kit then add a polyurethane bushes to it anyway just to be on the safe side?

Appreciate your opinion thanks Roman. I have herd of people having three links both rose jointed then the 4th link having one rose joint, on poly bush with holes drilled in it. I have asked t3 to see if they can have a bush/rose joint arm option which would be ideal.

As per title im trying to weigh up the best option for me kp,either: buy a set of ae86 links, one end rose jointed and the other end poly bushed. Then take them to an engineer to be cut and welded to length. Buy t3's rose jointed links and just run that plus stitch weld the link brackets as ive herd they can crack the floors from being too stiff? Or purchase t3's links then make up some sort of setup as kpr has done, also take in that im no fantastic welder. Love to know your views/opinions/experiences. Cheers

Cleaned up and sprayed the diff housing in matte black so doesn't look to tacky & whipped in another sump baffle

Things have been a bit quiet at 'garage wai ting', things shall be picking up majorly next week so til then I decided to keep my electronic speed sensor rather than the cable one, but this ment I needed to change my speedo. I ended up using dials from an AE111 BZG as it had a similar design & mated the faces with the kp light reflector boards. Messed around for quite awhile cutting/trimming the housing till the dials fit as best as they could. wound the odo back, scarily easy to do! Not sure if to keep at original vehicle km's or to start over? Theres not much left of the original parts but will effect the vehicle history. I'm on annual leave so more interesting stuff to come next week.

Thanks guys, just what the wallet needed to hear. Possibly just an over exaggerated problem with yanks trying to launch their atey suckses on semi slicks.

As some of you may know I have a T series axle in my kp that came with a bro'd up diff with a couple of small splined axles, one of which I have replaced for obvious reasons. I plan to do the odd drift day nothing too serious...I hope. Engine will be an approx 115kw 20v, standard style single puk clutch disc with uprated cover, body weight is around 750ish kg's? And only running skinny 14's On a further note I most definitely will be running a 1.5way lsd rather than a locked diff but since I already have the axles I was thinking of getting a, "previous term" lsd. Just wanting opinions on what kinds of abuse small splines can handle taking into account the lighter body etc. Cheers

Fse engines as said above are simply retarded (excuse the pun). They bog down, un-responsive, have no power, keep shitting up their egr valves causing them to go into limp mode and then gets sent to us to fix their sorry asses because they bought a p.o.s. Or, you can feel less guilty by having a great carbon foot print, have slightly better fuel economy, finally be able to pull up those beige denum shorts up to your chest whilst playing a game of lawn bowls. Choice is yours really, but I definitely know where I stand

Finally got rid of those dam eBay specials in place for some (I believe) TE71 electric fender mirrors. They were originally chrome but wanted them black, at the same time the thought of sanding back the original chrome was killing me. So best of both, Plasti-dip! Not sure how long it'll last but works for now. Both motors work which is a bonus so when the time comes i'll rig up a switch inside. J160 arrived a few weeks ago, but had no shifter bracket. bit the bullet and bought a new one. Still ended up being cheaper than a complete box off tardme. Thrust washers arrived today so can assemble the bottom end, still waiting on head work to be done.

what wheels you running?

Or else heres his number+64278233462

If you hunt not too far back in the wtb/fs section, we had a little discussion about 4age conversion mounts.