_Matt

Put some 175/60/13 tires on. They make such a huge difference. Just needs lowering another couple of inches.

Got tuning done, needs to go back soon to get the top end done, since we didn't want to rev it too high too soon. Any suggestions on what oil to run? I'm guessing some mineral oil with plenty of zinc?

Nah just to Ewan Mcmillan in feilding. He'll probably just re-jet the carb and get it running better, as it's running quite rich atm. Then will try and get it on a dyno.

Yeah cam has been run in. Dropped it off today for it to get tuned tomorrow.

Here's a video with the straight pipe, needs a tune still. Will try and do a better one once the mufflers on.

Made the exhaust, was too loud as it only have one Coby resonator and just a straight pipe out the back. So decided to make a muffler for it, since I couldn't find anything the style I liked. So here's my guide to making a muffler haha Press some end caps. Drill a lot of holes in some tube and then louvre them. Weld on baffle for the expansion chamber. Wrap tube in stainless steel wool and then stuff with fibreglass. Weld on end caps Polish. Then fit. Is all welded now and have painted the tube black, just waiting for some flanges to go just in front of the diff, otherwise I'll have some difficulty trying to get it over the diff to fit.

Yeah P10, they fit well and are easy to fit as well. I just made some brackets for the bottom that were 'Z' kinda shaped to drop it down, so the bonnet clears the radiator cap. Used rivnuts to mount them. Then just made some other brackets for the top using existing holes. Bottom radiator hose fits. I used a Nissan Maxima hose for the top and cut it down to fit.

Everything is nearly done now. Just need to make the exhaust, sort out the breather/pcv valve and tidy up the wiring, as it's a mess. Made some overly complicated throttle linkage. This is since the Weber's throttle rotates the opposite way to the factory carby, also clearance issues and because the cable travels way more than what the carby rotates (would result in very touchy accelerator pedal with hardly any travel) if that makes sense. Anyway this works mint and uses the full pedal travel. Filled it up with oil and coolant tonight and started it. Started up first try after fuel had gotten through. Ran really nice! Was quite loud with only the headers on haha. Will try get a video tomorrow.

Pulled out the old dirty 2K Friday afternoon. Gave the engine bay a clean, degrease and painted a few things that weren't very nice looking. Dropped the 4K in today. Also test fitted radiator. Still a decent amount of things need doing; make exhaust, radiator mounts, fit accelerator/choke cables, sort the water/heater lines, make a new coil mount, rewire the dizzy/tidy up the wiring, shorten braided fuel line, probably heaps more I'm missing.

Rush Automotive headers arrived today, so nice! The swap might potentially happen next weekend or the week after.

Nearly done, might put some more horizontal east-west bars coming off the wide V parts (if that makes sense) as it looks a little empty there. Then I guess it can all be welded and the engine can go back in to figure out mounting and driveshaft hoops etc. Picked up a commodore diff as well, since it has disc brakes. So can also start setting up the 4 links as well.

Yeah, i thought about it a lot, but decided against it, since I thought red on red was a bit much and red seems to be the most common colour choice for starsharks. I wanted to be different. Cheers man

Here's a list of the things that have been done: Got the flywheel back and it is about 6.5kg I think Also painted the grill and headlight surrounds again, this time satin black, which looks much better! Clocked to 88888 today

So the 4K is all reassembled thanks to Hartley's! Not 100% sure on the specs yet, but I believe it is bored out to 1400cc, new pistons, bigger cam, ported, skimmed head, valve springs, lightened flywheel, electronic distributor. Weber carby has been rebuilt, have also acquired a Primera radiator, MSD coil, new muffler and Ramflo filter. Basically just waiting for the Rush automotive headers to be made then it can go in! So excited for some power!! Need to tidy up that yuck fuel pump and dizzy vacuum advance(?) somehow.

Yay progress! Still at least 12 bars to cut up and weld in.

It's only been 3 months of no progress, whoops. Oh well, back into it now. Decided against trying to make it out of round tubing so just used some 30x30x2mm RHS as it's much easier. More updates over the next couple of days hopefully.

New clutch is in and is now much better to drive. Also bought a new clutch cable because the old one wasn't the best and had stripped the adjustable circlip part of it. Installed some new carpet from autodec, could do with some more work to get it fitting nicer. Made up an adapter plate and modded the intake manifold to suit the weber carby. Had an attempt to make the inside all smooth which worked well, just need to get further in.

Not very much has happened since the last update. The rear springs got a bit of a "trim" so it sits a bit nicer now. Still want it lower so I'll try sort some shorter shocks at some point. The clutch has decided to give out all of a sudden, so I went and bought a new one (thanks Mark!). Will try and get it in this weekend. The 4K that is at the engine builders is now getting bored out as big as it can go, since he found new pistons for very cheap. Hopefully they start on it soon! I have made a start on making my own extractors, I drew up a flange and got it laser cut at work. Now to figure out how to do the rest of them.

The chassis is now fully welded. It is so much stronger now, hardly twists at all. This is the design I've come up with so far. I was thinking of using 1.25 inch round tubing and getting it all cut out on the tube laser we have at work. It will be double layer like the last image, so there's room for the exhaust etc to go through. In-between will be hoops for the drive shaft as well. Does it sound like a good idea?

Got most of the top welded up and a little bit of the bottom done. It didn't really take as long as I thought it would. Can probably flip it over now to weld the rest of it. Need to also start designing the crossmembers sometime soon.

Cut up some plates to fit up to the front crossmember, drilled some holes for the bolts that the front end mounts with. Close-tacked all along the top and down the joins, just need to tack along the bottom. Then I can start the long process of tig welding it all together.

Not very much has happened recently, but now hopefully back into it. Most of that time was spent trying to figure out how to clamp the chassis down so it is all straight before welding on the boxing plates. Decided to make some trestle like things that are bolted to the floor, then put some spacers in between them and the chassis to get it all level. Chassis is then welded to the trestles to hold it in place. Managed to get most of it within 0.1 of a degree. So I'm hoping it comes out quite good. (Probably better than it was from factory anyway) Will bring the boxing right up to the front crossmember, just need to do some cutting to get the plates fitting. Thinking we might need to close-tack it all together, then fully weld the top and at least tack the new crossmembers in, so it can then be flipped to weld underneath of the boxing. That should then hold it all together without twisting too much, I hope.

Painted the wheels this weekend. Used paint stripper to remove the original paint, didn't work for the clearcoat on the lips though. The rear lips came up pretty good with a sand and polish. Would come up better if I could remove the bolts but they're stuck. Bought a Weber 28/36 too.

Did some photoshopping of the wheel colours, drip rails and window frames to see which ones I liked the best. Still no idea which I prefer. Open to suggestions. Also how would I go about lowering it another 30-40mm? It already has cobra springs which I think are just lows. Cut or compress them a bit with shorter shocks? Or get some superlows? Adjustable coilovers are out of my budget atm. Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48889-matts-81-kp60-starlet-discussion/

Woo! Wheels finally arrived from Japan. They turned out to be 13x6.5 instead of 13x6 which is good. Gave them a bit of a polish and some new nuts and bolts. They didn't polish up as good as the other pair because they have a clearcoat on them. Will have another go removing it at some point. Was going to paint them all gold, but I think I like the red a bit more, because it's darker and has more contrast with the polished bits. Just need to lower it a bit now.