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square

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Posts posted by square

  1. Too cool man, rad shape and good to hear its in good hands.

     

     If it were me I wouldn't fuck around bagging it without a hefty notch, bridge and 4 link. It'll likely be as much work as getting a bit of extra low, and you've already done the open drive conversion ( Im assuming this was torque tube like the chevs)

    itll be a matter of raising tunnel a bit, making small tunnels for upper 4 links bars and chopping the boot up for the bridge. If you don't it'll always piss you off that it doesn't sit right down. And you don't want to spend that money twice. And Im sure they've bagged jag front ends aswell.

     

    Ive used Gambino 4 links twice now, just put one in my 38 and its good gear, cheap and goes straight in. But Murray and Chris know the drill on these and may have better options.

    • Like 1
  2. I did the same thing with copper tubing in the 53, plugs in, no leaks. I do that again but its pretty soft to have under the car.

     

    20160722_090132_zpsfkc05dx4.jpg

     

    I got some runs of straight aircraft hydraulic tubing so that'll work (maybe), just have to get commercial fittings.

    • Like 4
  3. Who knows hardlines on here ? See bullet point facts below :

     

    - I have built a couple of cars with bags, plastic lines are reliable but look shit

    - straight runs of stainless are spendy, last time I priced it anyway

    - I know nothing of the materials using for solid auto brake and fuel lines

    - I have made hardlines for things that flap around in sky and am not retarded

    - Cert man says use brake line but it comes in coils and looks a bit shit

    - the car guys and commercial hydraulics guys Ive spoken to are useless

    - Im assuming ill use JIC fittings ( 37 degree I think )

     

    Is there a golden material that will work ? or do I just use brake line

  4. The system works fine. The hobby car manual ( not that anyone seems to refer to it ) can never cover every current fad that pops up, so the certifiers have to make the judgement, failing that the TAC roundtable get involved. Chances are those who hate it have tried to push through some ill-thought out expensive rubbish.

     

    When I sent the 53 through the TAC and ceritifer were slow getting to me on the design approval for my front end, I got pissed, started hassling them, by the time they got back to me they had contacted the manufacturers of my upper and lower arms and organised another set to be sent over at no cost, I got quiet quickly.

     

    My only frustration was the monthly TAC meetings, which is minor.

  5. I just changed a set of bags which were set up pretty similar, after 2 years they were showing signs of chaffing and they would have popped.

    I guess even when aired out they still have a bit of relative movement, or maybe it's from bottoming out when driving. It would be nice if the bags were designed so they couldn't wrap up past the mount face.

    They don't seem to care too much about a bit of displacement at ride height so maybe the answer is to set them up parallel at bottom, or put a disc spacer under mount to give it some clearance.

  6. Ive used Kiwi Shipping a couple of times and they are easy to deal with but at the high end price wise.

     

    I bought the 53 in through Chucks in Auckland, easy to deal with when it was all said and done I paid a third of what I would have paid for shipping. He sent photos, i sent questions and money and when it was all said and done a transporter showed up at work ( in Queenstown ) with a stock 53 with a WOF and rego and a trunk full of parts which I ordered over there and had shipped to the yard in LA. If I were to do it again Id go through Chucks no question.

     

    I got lucky with he condition though. As above the standard of engineering there is generally shit, my advice would be dont buy anything modified and get someone who knows what they are on about to look at whatever it is in person.

  7.  

    OK, so I'm tempted by the accuair valve block system, so it would make sense to use their controller too. Anyone used one?

    Yep, got one in the current one and had one for 4 years in the last one. I think everyone I know running air systems has them. Small, quiet, slow, simple. Pulled the last one apart as it was getting slow, took an hour to clean and sort after 3 years of use.

    I just run mine with switches but I know guys that use the e-level thing and rate it.

    imagejpg1_zpsd498d0b6.jpg

  8. I drove up for the Deep South for this with preconceptions of acres of mustangs and identical 55-57 chevs, which there were buttfuck, there was also a huge array of cool shit and I only got asked what colour I was going to paint my car 50 times. Good vibe the whole time and just heaps of good people into cars. I'll be going back.

    Seeing the shots above I realise how much we missed.

    image_zps8bd6227f.jpg

    image_zps489b52fe.jpg

    • Like 4
  9. Cheers, turns out the local Smith and Smith agent can sort it ( last place I thought to call ) he cut me some laminated ones they from a tinted glass they had in stock and it's an exact match for what I had.

    I'm getting some toughened ones made by them aswell, 500 for the set with tint which seems sweet. Plenty cheaper than shipping them over.

  10. I got me an old chevrolet that has the factory laminated glass with a light blue tint. There's cracks and delams in a couple of windows and I need to get some more cut but want I retain the tint.

    Ordering them in from Us is my backup but I don't want to wait 8 weeks or pay 400 clams in shipping if I can avoid it.

    Anyone got any bright ideas for getting it locally ? I know the modern metric stuff doesn't quite match thickness wise ( mine is 1/4" vs 5mm I think )

    Cheers

    image_zps5237e954.jpg

  11. Rad, she's going to be evil.

    With the back roof I had saved and deleted a heap of pictures but you could run a bigger window, like almost full size and I think lots of guys flip them. It would get rid of a bit of that notch. Front looks cool though, the proportions look right.

    image_zpsfab95399.jpg

    I wish I'd cut my k member out and made a new one like you have, the rear removable section is the lowest point. I got told by a few people to make sure you retain all the factory torsional rigidity if you're remaking it, they are a floppy frame. I think the aftermarket ones you see that are tubular don't do the things any favours. , the art Morrison frames are RHS with sleeved holes for pipes which could be cool.

  12. Cheers guys, I'll bring it up soon Chris, take the groms for a drag.

    Yeah the black c10 was mine, sold it to a guy in Auckland.

    The gambino setup was easy, changed the front around a bit. We are pretty lucky with our cert laws, the design approval for the front end was a ballache but if you do the dance as prescribed it can be done.

    Let me know if you want any measurements or anything, the guard profile etc is probably different but the frames must be pretty similar. My stock front end wasn't fitted straight from factory.

    I won't do a build thread, mainly because I just ripped off a heap of other peoples ideas. This exact car has been built a hundred times in the states. This one is different because it's fucking mine haha.

    I dig the chop too, I'd love to have the spine to do it to mine one day.

    • Like 1
  13. Cool man, I just finished a 53, went with gambino front and rear, mustang rack etc, drives good stops on a dime. It'll sit the rear rockers on the deck on biscuits with full size back seat, just. I'm running a 55 rear but explorer looks much better for hp ( I'm running stock lump ).

    What's the front track width ? My front is 36" spring centre to spring centre, it's about right, I wouldn't want it wider, I also layed it back a touch to get antidive up for bags, might be good for springs too . The other thing is to make sure you push the font axle centreline back a couple of inches, stock they sit forward.

    image_zps6447e5c7.jpg

    • Like 6
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