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cheers yeah it seems like theyre in demand, Ive ended up with a complete C160 conversion including axles and dash so im sure someone will want it.
Havent had any C56s jump up at me yet, then a mate hit a deer in his sp20 the other night and fucked it so that might be a good option to strip, dunno if the later mazda manuals are any tougher than the early ones
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Sweet ok thanks I'll keep an eye out for a c56. I don't need 6 speeds.
Power wise ideally I'd keep it around the 200 hp mark, I don't need lots and won't run a turbo or anything.
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Some progress on this lemon, I've been googling tranny's more than usual. I've read posts from Honda guys ( most special ), Toyota sprinter / guys ( less special but still ) and hardcore Mazda guys ( generally good ).
Gist of it is older Mazda trannys are shit and not worth using, regardless I've got hold of an F series one with shifter and pedal box etc.
I also have this
Toyota sprinter/ Levin etc 6 speed c160 box with shift linkages etc. Finding this was a bit punishing, the box doesn't feel great so I'll either find another one ( ideally with LSD ) or rebuild this and fit a slipper.
Flywheel and clutch are small and apparently Toyota axles with slide into bg Mazda hubs, which I also got, so can run later 323 struts and brakes etc.
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Ive started looking more closely at this thing, cut some rust out of trunk lid on outside, will do inside next then bottom corners of front doors.
Went in for its forst wof in a few years, just failed on an exhaust leak and a brake dragging , easy as. They didnt mind the torn cv boots or oil leaks out the front.
No more surprises yet, its very tidy in places
I had a good look underneath, no rot which Im pretty happy about.
Front end isnt what I expected, rack is bolted to firewall and tie rods come in from the back of spindles so thats easy. Front axles have plenty of clearance around them too. One thing with the newer ones is that the long shaft has an idler which might make them a pain in the hoop to use unless theres space on the motor for a mount, but itll be busy enough with water pipes and exhaust etc
I also went a saw a mate locally who froths triangle powered stuff and old mazdas in general, he has a couple of these things and he may have an engine and honda trans I can pry off him, as though the jesus just shat them into my lap, its got to be a sign to push forward.
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Yeah cheers any options are good at this stage, apart from dropping 20+k into a new engine, that don't seem smart
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yeah that could be the go if I could get one, my thinking was the donor trans doesn't matter too much, I just would try and start with something closer to the wanger hp wise ( i figure 200 at flywheel ) which seems closeish to what the 2.3 later familia / atenza motors are.
Im might start pesting round the rally prep shops and see if any of them have any old mazda stuff
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cheers yeah Im pumped on it, pointless but it'll keep me busy. Ive got a mate in town with another one the same, he wants the same swap done. I dont need it to be fast, I have other fast shit, its just needs to be loud and slow looking.
My main concerns will be flywheel diameter, starter placement and track width etc, hopefully the tie rod inputs etc arent too dissimilar on the later mazdas or whatever I use and I can keep the steering rack and everything stock. The last design approval I did sucked the life out of me for a while.
I sort of need to get the engine first to start mockups but haven't had any good options jump out, 13b sounds the best bet for parts availability. One gem I read was the the auto counterweights on the 13b has a different flange which will allow alot more flywheel options, that what the grey BFMR used.
Talking to a few mates in motorsport the Honda boxes sound like the handle the power better and probably easier to get brake upgrades etc for, I might need a parts car
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bear with me im becoming a boomer so may have screwed these posts up
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I got back into the 323 game, it's been 25 years. I had a 2 door turbo hatch which I loved and a wagon with a 13b which was great til I crashed the shit out of it.
So full circle, I couldnt justify spending 20k on a raped bugeye shell for a side project so came back to these.
Picked it up today, 139 ks, 3 owners since new and it's a peach.its been off the road for a couple of years, but runs sweet.
It needs a bit of rust pulled, nothing major that needs cut by the look of it but there's a nasty repair in passenger floor that I'll change.
There one patch in spare tyre well I'll.chop out at some stage.
So the plan for it :
- rust
- wof check
- find bigger / more suitable fwd 5 speed
- Wang a rotor in it
I want to retain the fwd, and it needs to look stock, maybe widen standard wheels a touch.
I'm expecting a fair bit of fab work.
I'm thinking smart thing might be to buy an atenza or sp20 and rip trans, axles, hubs and struts out to swap over, then I get bigger everything including brakes.
FOr the engine id like a 12a Bridgeport but don't fancy my chances of finding one that hasn't been built in a lounge out of fucked parts.
For the drive I'll make an adaptor, I've got some learning to do on engine bolt patterns etc, but something similar to this bfmr one from moons ago.
I'm open to suggestions with this, apart from making it rwd, this isn't the car for that carry on
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Yeah I saw that civic, tight fit but I bet it was fun to drive. that radiator hose would be way cooler not there
45 minutes ago, oldrx said:Pics? Might be better to sell/hoard it and buy a rougher one to cut up?
Like saving your missus for the next guy ? That ain't me, I don't see the 323 4 door in poo brown ever becoming a high dollar car. If I get the swap done it'll need to look like it belongs in there.
I'll get some pics tomorrow and have an atenza to go take some measurements from which may stop this all before it starts if it's all wrong but there seems to be plenty of Mazda donor options around.
This was the bfmr I found pics of, 13bt, quite the thing really, I bet the exhaust / driveshaft clearance was tight. The bfmr rally ones we had would eat the gearbox shaft end bearing seats and fill them with alloy shavings, I think we welded plates in the stop it.
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I've been given a nana spec 82 323, it looks good but could do with a pulse.
Rough plan would be to use atenza trans, shortened axles and hubs / brakes. I'll make a trans adapter and fart around with clutch and flywheel spacing.
I won't run big HP, just want a cruiser. There was a cool bf sedan around years ago with same setup, but a 13b turbo, I'm not sure if it became the green rwd one.
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Has anyone messed with front drive rx swaps ? I found a couple of threads of older cars using f series Mazda boxes, I've used these in rally cars and they were shit.
I'm plotting a swap and the later atenza 6 speeds look better suited
Thanks
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I've used motec, Aim and racepak ones as stand alone loggers on raceboats with basic control functions, they are all easy enough to configure and set alarm limits on, but they all have big goofy dashes.
The last big install I did with the Aim one in a boat has an aquisition unit and the dash is just a display so that might be a good option where you just have warning / position light etc for asthetics. Aim system was awesome for input flexibility, I was using it to monitor a Russian gas turbine engine and we could still fuck around configuring all the inputs and limits to make it useful. It'd run timing no worries.
There's a fella down ( bob richardson ex link ) here that makes a basic loggers and ecus with basic display functions , he's made them for all sorts of engines.
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18 hours ago, yoeddynz said:
And a thread about the bedford too please @square
What bedford ? Its a chev G20, Ill do a thread when I 4x4 it, maybe this winter
15 hours ago, HumberSS said:Can you start a thread on the kids jet boat? Keen to see that
Yep will do, its a 5000W motor and 140mm unit, just getting another drive sprocket made then will get on it. A mate has a plastic welded hull with a 25kw motor and it popped me up out of the hole in a flash, real impressive for tight stuff
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This is the boat, aliexpress motor, controller and pedal. It needs re gearing but should go good, It was near on the plane at 3k prop speed so at 8k itll be golden \. Im just getting a battery pack built for it now, best bit is it fits on van
And the gokart, 1800W aliexpress motor and controller, it was one of those ride on eskys, I lengthened it and put a wheelbarrow tub on it, mtb disk brake and it rips. Itll do 40kmh with me on it and Im a 100kg gargoyle. I built it 4 years ago and its done around 1000 donuts since.
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The fire issue is a big one. A manufacturer sending a vehicle through ANCAP tests or whatever else vs some spud rigging up a pack and BMS and having a certifier put their name to it is not the same. I know the confidence levels with lvvta arent high, Clint will know more.
I'm one of these spuds and I can't get my head around it, I've already had one pack combust on a bike, still don't know what caused it, but it nearly cost me my shed.
I've currently got a 48v go kart and a 72v kids jetboat ( surron motor ), Hilux is next.
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In this case, there was no point in me posting here, I'll learn
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Quick follow up here, I've had plenty of useless advice so far from around the place from noone with any real experience so will plug away getting the trans functions of the ecu to work , there's not that many ins and outs.
I don't have exact wiring diagrams for the Hilux or the donor so am averaging many diagrams which is no fun.
I went through the same exercise a few months back with an A750f and 1KD swap and it works ok still.
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It’s an ecu controlled engine now, but I’m turfing the electronic diesel pump for a manual one to get adjustable boost and fuel pressure.
there must be a way of using the stock eng / trans ecu just for the trans Just need to brain how
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Just now, Yowzer said:
I have a spare a43de TCM I could send you, you should be able to get the box running off that as long as you can give it a speed and TPS signal, however the shift points will be too high for the 1kz and I don't know how you'd go about altering that.
Thanks yeah thought about that but no adjustment would be an issue
Just now, 00quattro00 said:The older 1kz should have a separate tcm, or get one from another diesel like an Isuzu or Mitsubishi that use these trans
This one is built into the engine ecu but I didn’t realise the Pajero etc had them, will see what I can find. I’d been looking under 30-40le as well
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Hi gents,
I'm lobbing a 1kz and a340e into an old rn 90 Hilux and will run a manual diesel pump ( probably ) instead of the engine ecu.
I can't figure out how to drive the trans, I've made manual shift boxes for these before but want this to work properly, either with the engine ecu or another trans ecu.
Anyone got any ideas or has done it before ? If I can fool engine ecu then that the easiest way, just can't brain how. It has the tps cable on it already.
The boxes are super common but Google wants me to buy an aftermarket TCM and I don't want that for a $1000 truck
Thanks
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Cheers I got one of those but the driver they sent with it still needs a registration.
I ended up getting an OBDLink MX + bluetooth thing off trademe, works grouse, logs some data and I can check and clear codes via phone.
Next job is get a Can sniffer and get dash working, anyone got any time with this sort of thing ?
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cheers, no luck so far, anyone else got any ideas ?
I registered on the Toyota Europe GS site, it said all done no problems then just dead. Im going to try a bluetooth phone OBDII reader thing but I doubt itll do what I want.
Also transplanting a 1KD common rail diesel into something else is possible, I done it and am driving it
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Squares leccy groms boat
in Other Projects
Posted
I bought the Grom a little jetboat a few years ago, it's 1300 long or so and had a gas powered trash pump for a donk, it was built in greymouth I think. it was loud and slow but she had some fun in it
So ran it like that for a few years then it blew up and sat under a tree. A few months back I dragged it out..made a new intake, bolted a 140mm ski unit in the back and sorted steering then put a 48v electric chainsaw motor in there for a drive unit. It went ok but wouldnt quite get on step and got wet and fried itself.
So then I got a 5000w 72V emoto kit ( ex surron ) off AliExpress with a foot pedal. All waterproof they reckoned.
So here it is, I'm running chain drive for now til I get the gearing right ( it's turning at 6k or so max now ) then will put a belt on it I think. A mate at work built the pack and bms and it's good for 40 minutes or so. She loves it and missus fits in it too. Highly recommended
I can vouch for the waterproofness, I got in it and tried doing doughies on Friday and sunk it, girl laughed at me, dried it all out and it's fine.
Here's a quick vid of it :
https://youtube.com/shorts/wcsHLeL9Xzo?feature=share