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bear with me im becoming a boomer so may have screwed these posts up

The filter needs to stay, current trans is the size of my fist, wrong way hood, shit headlights, so good !

I got back into the 323 game, it's been 25 years. I had a 2 door turbo hatch which I loved and a wagon with a 13b which was great til I crashed the shit out of it. So full circle, I couldnt justify spending 20k on a raped bugeye shell for a side project so came back to these. Picked it up today, 139 ks, 3 owners since new and it's a peach.its been off the road for a couple of years, but runs sweet. It needs a bit of rust pulled, nothing major that needs cut by the look of it but there's a nasty repair in passenger floor that I'll change. There one patch in spare tyre well I'll.chop out at some stage. So the plan for it : - rust - wof check - find bigger / more suitable fwd 5 speed - Wang a rotor in it I want to retain the fwd, and it needs to look stock, maybe widen standard wheels a touch. I'm expecting a fair bit of fab work. I'm thinking smart thing might be to buy an atenza or sp20 and rip trans, axles, hubs and struts out to swap over, then I get bigger everything including brakes. FOr the engine id like a 12a Bridgeport but don't fancy my chances of finding one that hasn't been built in a lounge out of fucked parts. For the drive I'll make an adaptor, I've got some learning to do on engine bolt patterns etc, but something similar to this bfmr one from moons ago. I'm open to suggestions with this, apart from making it rwd, this isn't the car for that carry on

In this case, there was no point in me posting here, I'll learn

Quick follow up here, I've had plenty of useless advice so far from around the place from noone with any real experience so will plug away getting the trans functions of the ecu to work , there's not that many ins and outs. I don't have exact wiring diagrams for the Hilux or the donor so am averaging many diagrams which is no fun. I went through the same exercise a few months back with an A750f and 1KD swap and it works ok still.

It’s an ecu controlled engine now, but I’m turfing the electronic diesel pump for a manual one to get adjustable boost and fuel pressure. there must be a way of using the stock eng / trans ecu just for the trans Just need to brain how

Thanks yeah thought about that but no adjustment would be an issue This one is built into the engine ecu but I didn’t realise the Pajero etc had them, will see what I can find. I’d been looking under 30-40le as well

Hi gents, I'm lobbing a 1kz and a340e into an old rn 90 Hilux and will run a manual diesel pump ( probably ) instead of the engine ecu. I can't figure out how to drive the trans, I've made manual shift boxes for these before but want this to work properly, either with the engine ecu or another trans ecu. Anyone got any ideas or has done it before ? If I can fool engine ecu then that the easiest way, just can't brain how. It has the tps cable on it already. The boxes are super common but Google wants me to buy an aftermarket TCM and I don't want that for a $1000 truck Thanks

Cheers I got one of those but the driver they sent with it still needs a registration. I ended up getting an OBDLink MX + bluetooth thing off trademe, works grouse, logs some data and I can check and clear codes via phone. Next job is get a Can sniffer and get dash working, anyone got any time with this sort of thing ?

cheers, no luck so far, anyone else got any ideas ? I registered on the Toyota Europe GS site, it said all done no problems then just dead. Im going to try a bluetooth phone OBDII reader thing but I doubt itll do what I want. Also transplanting a 1KD common rail diesel into something else is possible, I done it and am driving it

HI all, anyone got a Techstream access code or know a hack ? Ive tried a few google ones and im pretty sure I just gave away my bank ( and likely browsing ) history. Ive tried paying for a subsciption too and no luck Cheers

cheers, Its on its way but I think pn is 8966160N11. Ive got the techstream thing coming but Im dont think they can disable. The car its going into ( 2012 fj ) has a chip key so I may be able to reset the immobiliser for the key in there already but have no idea.

Hi all, I need the immobilser deleted from a 2009 ish Prado ECU. I can get it done in oz but anyone know of someone who can do it in NZ ? From what I understand ECU has to be opened, chip accessed and eeprom disabled. Some of the remote start kits do the same but I think still need the original key once the engine is running. Cheers

Can't remember sorry, I would remember a dude called Julian to.

Also Craig at Hillside fab whipped me up a sweet stainless tank, 70L or so, Hobby car manual has really clear criteria for these so it was easy to make to spec. Ill get the trunk upholstered by Chop at some stage.

Somewhere in there I took it to Winton Upholstery and Chop packed it out with Cow skins, I wanted it basically stock looking with lots of soothing browns, he did that, super clean and easy to deal with. The 6 weeks of to and fro with the TAC and its legal, I missed the hop and nostalgias which I was fuming about but it would probably not have been that smart to drag it straight up there, now I just to get the carbs talking better and maybe sell it or not, havent decided yet.

I wired it up with a Painless harness which was painless, then took it outside , and thought I was really cool Took it to the Lurkers creepout won best Hotrod , my first Trophy for a car, and really the only one I care about, solid peer review, then to the great cromwell standaroundathon. the chopped 51 belongs to Stewie the painter, its a mans car. Also pictured is some kid and some dudes gut.

Then off to Michael Stewart Restorations in Cromwell, these guy know their shit, Stewie and Chiz have both worked in body shops offshore and are the only guys I spoke to round here that could actually see what I was trying to achieve with it. Chiz raised the front fenders 5 inches ( OMG ! ) and only the purists seem to notice , and they hate it anyway. I wanted the factory line from the fender through the door kept, and didtn want the gap between the fender and headlight closed too much. Got it home, started scratching it engines in the background here are T58 gas turbines we race in jet boats, see 777 river racing on facepalm. I build the motors ( Im a helicopter mechanic by trade )

Body on, body off, body on, body off

Blasted frame, Installed bits and bobs, cut stuff off, stuck stuff on, Im too lazy to get things machined so I make everything out of RHS and plate. Brake booster under drivers floor, tanks and pumps on rails etc

Yeah airbags and IFS, the main reason I got snotty was I had just spent an hour fighting the computer uploading pics and crap only for them to ditch it all. I respect the need for their standard but they dont police it, the site is full of sick builds with bags etc, Ive ripped plenty of ideas off it over the years. With the IFS I ordered it through Krusin Kustoms ( do the right thing, shop in NZ right ? ) and it showed up wrong, they made a minimal effort to put it right and I had to make the missing parts. So next time Ill go back to ordering direct. No Doubt Heidts screwed it up originally. The way their kits tie into the frame rails is average, on the Art Morrision ones etc the vertical spring loads are transferred straight into the crossmember, on these and a lot of others it levers against the bottom of the spring mount where it attaches to the frame ( just above rack in pic), these old frames are a 2 piece and not that thick so I plated the frame and raised the crossmember so it attaches to the back of the spring cup aswell which seem to have worked, but then Ive changed a pre-approved product so have fisted myself. Also shock mounts supplied had shocks mounted in single shear with bolts, I cant change coz pre-approved, so I submit it and it fails, then have to change, again fisting self. Anyway feds are happy

Yeah I pissed the HAMB fags off and they deleted it, ill try and rewrite what Ive done on here tomorrow

Front is a Heidts IFS which I got to avoid the design approval, they are average. I ordered it as a kit from Kruzin Kustoms and they supplied it with coil springs, no bag mounts and airbag LCAs, never again. And kenneth stfu

Cheers man, yeah I should try spats Cheers Chris, had a good night drinking with Sharatt saturday, he heading back to rumble Yeah, I wanted it done but am not up to it, we looked at them alot. Mitch at Stewies did most of it, all steel. Thanks Fellas, Im stoked to have it on the road finally

found lump, 54 olds 324, 371 heads, OE7 manifold, 6 x 94's, Bendtsen adaptor, WC T5 gearbag. It runs into a 95 ish Explorer posi axle, 3.73 gears, 8.8 " crown wheel ( I think ), discs etc. Axle width is key, I didnt want to be shortening etc, I think these are 59" hub to hub or something, whatever it was it was right for the offset I have. Also found out I had staggered width wheels which I didnt realise, spent a couple of hours cursing as to why frame/ guard spacing was off, reason being I had 7 inch rims on one side and 6 on the other ( spoon ).