Banga

1 hour ago, DB8-TypeR said:

Just throwing it out there....

https://www.facebook.com/share/7F1VmVxbG2kNW8fp/?mibextid=kL3p88

Well that’s cheap enough to have a spare engine just in case

On 01/04/2024 at 13:00, rossnzwpi said:

How's that magnesium cam cover holding up to scuffing and repainting? I have an older engine with magnesium castings and was told they would continue corroding even after painting unless re-passivated.

So far so good, the cam covers on ST170s are notorious for the paint falling off. Suspect I’ll need to redo it in the future.

4 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said:

I didn't see your car in Napier on the weekend, but I did see a very nice Red Mk1 Cortina down in the Esk valley on Sunday morning. A rare sight indeed now.

Quite possible he was with  the Cortina club, a red Mk1  left a bit earlier than the rest of us.

This was on the way to Napier on Saturday morning, the other green mk2 has a 2.3 duratec in it and the white mk1 has a super charged 302-.

13 hours ago, Alfashark said:

Loving the presentation on this mate! I was sitting at The Cabbage Tree having a coffee in Tirau when you parked up on Saturday - I was going to wander over and ask if you were an Oldschooler, but the Barry brigade had wandered over to you and started yarning so I left you to it.

Thanks! Yeah seems to attract a few yarns - it’s a 50/50 split as to whether modern engine etc is cool or sacrilege.

Fancy new clutch bolted up, hopefully get it all back together this weekend.

Will drop the engine and subframe, slap the gearbox on and then lift it back up together.

It’s a bolt in place job specifically for this set up- no room to shim and it’s been fine for about 3000kms, I think you might be onto something with the master cylinder though - I swapped over a brake master in my pedal box and might not have have set the clutch master back to exactly where it was in the clevis when I put it all back together. 
 

It was only slipping in 3rd under high load/torque when hot so fluid expanding could be right on the money.

3 hours ago, Unclejake said:

Agreed you should change clutch to a higher HP rated unit, but I'd also be checking both the clutch master-cylinder rod and slave cylinder rod to ensure they both had a little clearance as it's possible your clutch fluid is heating up, expanding slightly, and putting a little pressure onto the release bearing

Will double check when I throw it back together, running a hydraulic release bearing so no slave cylinder rod to check. Thanks!

6 months on and has gone through another WOF, didn’t really get out as much as I thought over summer but did a little bit.

Has had a couple of teething issues, front brakes squeal when there are hot, tried copper paste and some squeal stop stuff but it eventually comes back. Bigger issue was that the clutch had started to slip when the car was warm, no issues when it was cold. Tried bleeding the clutch but no difference. The clutch is only “rated” to 180bhp and I’m right on that but haven’t driven it particularly hard.

So decided to pull the gearbox this week, note to future self the trans tunnel is not big enough to pull the gearbox- much easier to pull engine and gearbox or potentially drop the front subframe.
 

After much wrestling the gear box was out along with some paint and the clutch looks… fine. No signs of excess material and flywheel doesn’t look like it has been hot so I’m a bit confused really.

I think I’ll still grab a higher rated one just in case and get the flywheel skimmed and through it back together, one bright side is I’ve found the source of a really high pitched vibration/rattle- the dusty shield was loose inside the adaptor

Tell me I’m missing something here 

2 hours ago, Adoom said:

That will be the place. I'm sure I've heard someone mention that workshop behind the yamaha dealer.

If you come up empty handed , Chris Alexander at Suspension Tech in Pukekohe turned my Capri struts into coil overs and sorted the NDT and required paperwork. Good to deal with.

So fucking awesome! Amazing work dude.

C - lovely wheel.

8 hours ago, KKtrips said:

Want to do a perk job wiring mine?

 

I think I’ve been lined up for the old man’s bonus next, 1 wiring job a year for me!

I used a Painless one in my Cortina, wires a labelled all the way along which made it much simpler for a noob like me.

Full rewire and everything worked as intended and nothing caught fire- would trade again.

13 hours ago, cletus said:

Congrats! 

Good work, nice to see it legal and on the road

Thanks! Appreciate your help along the way in the cert thread!

On 09/10/2022 at 18:50, Sunbeam said:

Is that a momo prototipo you’re running? Do you know the diameter?

It’s a Momo California, 360mm diameter. Really nice wheel.

25 minutes ago, datlow said:

Could use a single van spec one depending on how your dash is made?

It’s an old cortina so trying to avoid butchering things as much as possible!

Does anyone have experience with the interpretation/definition of “readily accessible”?

I don’t have any room in my engine bay on the drivers side for my reservoirs  and to run the feed lines correctly so have placed them inside the dash.

The vent doesn’t have a hose going to it now so I can check the level through the vent. But I do need to remove the vent and fill the reservoirs with a syringe.

The other option is on the passengers side of the engine bay and to get them high enough they are going to need to be fairly close to the headers which seems a worse solution than having to fill by syringe?