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mo999

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Posts posted by mo999

  1. You would want to run new hard lines at the very least so you have it controlling front and rear instead of left and right. I know hydrolastic was all the rage in the 60s but you could make it really work for you with some new tech better valving and a bit of cunning.

    Yes BUT, the whole point of left and right is the control of body roll, front / rear would not do this - check out this stock standard one here https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1771726553050081&set=gm.1021757784571952&type=3&theater and compare to the Torana in the background.

    • Like 1
  2. 300psi is good. You can run 1/2 inch push lock hose to all the corners.

    You will need a solenoid at each corner to shut in the pressure once pumped up so the car does not tip over on a corner.

    Also a return solenoid at the pump.

    You could get all fancy with a pressure controller and what not, but a gauge will be much easier and cheaper.

    Wire a 300psi pressure switch into the pump so it cuts out once up to pressure and shut all the valves.

     

    You wouldn't need to run to all four corners, these have two separate systems already - one for each side - so you need to only select which side you want to alter and have a pressure gauge per side to set height - as per the factory settings, I think it 310 psi for complete Nana Spec ride height and something like 250 for some low - pretty much what GuyWithAviators runs most of the time.

     

    It would by pretty easy to connect to the existing valves under the bonnet. Remember these were built to withstand driving without any pressure in at all in case of a leak but are not comfortable at all and you may have trouble getting over anything - I think they drop to about 40mm!

     

    It's certainly a great project and GWA is interested in doing the same thing.

    • Like 2
  3. A bit more progress, 

     

    25870271254_e7399d6989_b.jpgcars082

     

    26449226266_6f6a50c05e_b.jpgcars081

     

    25872314633_b47c7bc0a0_b.jpgcars083

     

    I was definitely driving it around like this - note the straight pipes, vise-grips holding the battery cable, fuel tank that was tied on and G-Clamps!

     

    On the construction side, I was given some white colour steel ex an industrial fridge so this is glued and riveted on so it doesn't rattle - no painting required.

    • Like 6
  4. Some more progress  - and a new car! no points for guessing this time - too easy!

     

    Starting to take shape - firewall in - the finest fire proof plywood along with the pedalbox / brake MC from the HT even managed to use the throttle linkage.

     

    25872314933_437bba41bc_b.jpgcars070

     

     

    Also note the Bedford radiator - "borrowed" from dads Spray truck

     

    25870271684_89f9ea556f_b.jpgcars052

     

    26409011731_1639e79cf3_b.jpgcars053 

     

    Points for the foamer that ID's the re-purposed air cleaner

    • Like 2
  5. My girl-friend at the time (now wife) took some pics of me actually working on it.

     

    Not sure if welding this close to the petrol can is OSH approved! Definitely OS approved though.

     

    Things have moved on a bit now - just welding in the steering shaft support bearing - you can also see the Trans oil cooler I built from an old fridge compressor.

    26382833992_db5027d30a_b.jpgcars054 

     

    I had trial fitted a seat to determine the pedal placement - note the G-Clamps holding the steering column on - I seem to remember driving it around like this - just because I could - brakes are entirety optional

     

    25870271464_12383bef6f_b.jpgcars055 

    • Like 6
  6. One more of the engine in

    26382834152_c599426464_b.jpgcars021

     

    At this stage I got the Fordson out, took the motor and box back out and welded up the rest of the underside. I have also started on the framing for the firewall and the rear of the body. 

    You can also see the centre mounted tramp rod I added to the diff to stop the leaf springs winding up under power - but still allowing for plenty of travel on the rough stuff. Also to be seen is the mount for the Steering Rack.

    25872314843_aba68709e0_b.jpgcars079

    25870271314_d0f25c1aeb_b.jpgcars080

     

    The framing of the body is just 1/2 inch galv water pipe, hand bent around a from. I love the smell of galv burning off when welding!

     

    BTW the car is not a Justy.

     

     

    • Like 5
  7. By this time I had mounted the steering rack - complete with welded tie rods (no certs needed here :-))

     

    Time to test fit the motor and box - just hook it up to the front-end loader and drop it in - I just needed to straighten out the inner chassis rails and in it went.

     

    25872315303_433dfcb848_b.jpg6 17-04-2016 3-53-00 PM

     

    Built a rear crossmember support and bolted in the OG Holden one - job done

     

    25872315153_241b5d4b55_b.jpgcars020

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    10 Points for an ID on my car in the background?

     

    • Like 3
  8. Following the successful design of one my cousin built. I started on a new creation.

     

    It involved the chassis from one of these 12247770206_7c883d3e9e_n.jpgThames van by David, on Flickr

     

    and a V8 of some sort

     

    So I got a chassis 26449227096_8d0516b5ed_n.jpg5 17-04-2016 5-59-18 PM 26382834772_73158c5b9f_n.jpg4 17-04-2016 3-52-51 PM

     

    As these vans are forward control, I cut about 2 feet off the front - and converted it to rack and pinion (thanks to an Avenger) you can see the rack  ready in these pictures. Also at about this time I got these wheels and tyres for $50 from the McLeans Island Swapmeet - these vans are standard Ford 5 stud, stud pattern.

     

    I also got a Bedford diff (more on that later) which very nearly fitted the springs.

     

    26449226866_9d3a67d624.jpg7 17-04-2016 3-52-55 PM

     

     

    • Like 7
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