NVMPAJ

No not running yet , only on the enginestand for a minute. Im a wee way from getting it going Things to do . Bit more wiring Engine mounts Exhaust (but will definitly take it for a spin without) Kickdown cable Ten inch fans some gauges Certing The only code up when I did have it running was the 56 ............

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_112617/article.html Here's the go so cheap I'll get two , one for the 16 inch fan and another for the twin 10's

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/radiators-cooling-systems/auction-586115451.htm Here's the sort of thing I'll use. I'm also going to use the original Pajero temp gauge that will run off the toymota sender they also have another one for the ECU .

Bugger the link don't work!

Yeah I'm using a switch that'll be on the motor , it also will be for the automatics computer . I'm looking at using the above for the temp gauge . I'm driving three fans so I'm thinking I'll have one of the adaptors do one. Probably over kill but it might give me flexibility and also keep the engine running at the best temp. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=585314330. One of these looks good to that way I can dictate when the fan or fans start

These will do the job I reckon

Made up some radiator hoses , bit of a chop the originals and Lexus ones to suit , will need to join using the temp sender adaptors that are available . Pics coming soon

have located a rear sump for the project .......finally . Have made an adaptor plate to position the sump away from the diff . This works better that my homemade one as I can use the dipstick, and have the correct amount of oil. Looking at this weekend to put the motor in here some pics of what I did to fit the sump further back and also to the side to avoid my front diff

On welders I've had a go but am useless , is it just a matter of practice practice or would a course be worthwhile

You can change the outlet to the correct size probably 30 bucks at a whole saler don't trim the pins . The outlets in your garage are rated 10 amps . If you have a 20 amp breaker ,it's more than likely the wiring is 2.5mm which is good for 27amps . You could check if there is one PowerPoint on its own circuit and up rate the breaker to 25amps as well as changing the point . Probably 50 bucks all up for bits .a home owner is allowed to repair a Hot point

And here's the ECU and relays they sit behind the glove box ,will make up a bracket to mount them

Have swapped out the Pajero auto parts and put in The Lexus bits First pic shows the Pajero (right) parts compared with Lexus (left) if I left the Pajero parts in the flex plate wouldn't reach the torque converter and then I would be in trouble ! You can see the Lexus pump and input shaft are longer Each of the pics just show what you start with and add in each Lexus part till finally you have the torque converter sitting inthe correct position waiting to be connected to the motor, which will happen soon I hope .

Here's another vid of motor running , I've been playing about with the control of the fuel pump so it will shut down when the engine goes off

I found a site that quoted the Lexus resistor at 60 odd euros , so it'll be interesting if the one I have ordered does the job

Here's the resistor I'm gonna try .68 ohms 50 watt . If the the current of my pump is 5 amps there will be between 3 and 4 volts dropped across the resistor (15 watts)

Am thinking about using the fuel pump resistor that the '96 diagram shows , at first I was put off by the cost , but have found one from RS that's only $4.30 delivered . I figured from various threads that a .68 ohm will drop the voltage down by 3 or so volts . Toyota seem to advocate this to give a longer life to the pump during normal driving , for the sake of one extra relay its worth the the trouble to try . Nigel have you looked a this before , I'll let you know what I find . Merry Xmas

Very good so you didn't need the fancy key to get it to go

poor quality camera work , Jackson was busy at the time!

http://s1305.beta.photobucket.com/user/nvmpaj/media/TheV8.mp4.html here you go

Not a good vid but the sound is the thing for me

Got the motor running tonight woohoo will post the vid tomorrow

Got the motor running tonight will put up a vid tomorrow , the code 31 came back , little bit worried I may have had the battery on the wrong way ! Took awhile to start then I traced the problem to no igniters due to me not wiring the injectors and igniters to separate relays as your how to says to I need to learn to listen to the master .........thanks heaps again Nigel for a great thread

Got my sump mod back ,it'll do for working out fiment of the motor and I can actually run it to. Ultimately I'll get a Castlemaine Rodshop one or make one like theirs the CRS one does look alot better!! $750 ozzie tho

Right update , fuel pump is on the way (I hope) And I pick up my professionally welded sump today , not far away now from the big test fire!