hohocc

I'm likely to buy a car this afternoon which has got some personalised plates on it. Owner wants to keep them and I don't want them so everybody is happy. 

NZTA website says it has to have the plates changed before we buy it, or the plate ownership has to change. Since I'm driving to the other coast to look at it I want to buy it and head home monday morning. Is a change of plates something that can be done at the AA/VTNZ etc on the spot, or does it take days of paperwork processing? NZTA site says there is a fee for the change but is suitably vague on what that is, if it's a small figure I don't care who pays but am curious as to how much.

Thanks for any info. Info that should be a bit clearer on the NZTA website...

96 to 99 Toyota Ipsum fits the budget. Got rid of one recently, bought at 160km sold at 300km, only got rid of it as the space wasn't needed any more and hated driving an auto. 7 seats and didn't cost much more than tyres and fuel while we had it.

Not a thing of beauty but if you want a people mover it fits the bill. Think it used about 9l/100km if economy is of interest.

Might be worth posting your question on rcgroups.com or rcuniverse.com, there must be tens of thousands of those engines out there and someone will have struck this issue.

On 8/16/2017 at 15:45, Threeonthetree said:

Convert it to full hypermiler-spec and start your own blog/project thread:

http://www.randomthoughts.fyi/2012/03/mad-max-hypermiler-questions-and.html

Sadly (or thankfully) we don't have the ubiquitous long, straight roads that the US does or else I'd hope to see some of this blardy beauty backyard brilliance going on here.

 

There's a fine line between genius and crazy!

49 minutes ago, Threeonthetree said:

Stupid question but you're not running roo fracks or other drag-inducing accessories by any chance?

The only item is the standard rear spoiler, if I get worried enough about it I might take it off for a while and see if that makes a difference. Think I'll be able to live without the downforce!

25 minutes ago, Nick Ritchie said:

ie, is this you?

Not guilty!

1 hour ago, kyteler said:

I'm all for trying to improve and tune but are you sure you're not chasing the impossible? Consumption in the 7s seems fairly reasonable to me. Perhaps I'm too used to heavy drinkers.

You may well be right!

The only comparison I've got among other cars I've owned was an 89 Corolla (2E), on occasion that would dip into the 6s so my assumption was that this car being efi would be about equal with that. Other folks opinions add to the picture, the car is probably doing ok by the sounds of it with not much to be gained but I do appreciate the points that are being raised!

A workmate mentioned he had a 1.4 Cynos manual (smaller and lighter car no doubt) which he claimed used 5.8l/100km. He's a bit of an accountant when it comes to fuel so I expect he's being honest with that figure.  

11 minutes ago, Bling said:

What fuel you running? Rich is probably standard, could be worth having the timing checked.

91, 4afe doesn't need 95 or 98 does it? I'm told higher octane makes a small improvement to economy, have never tried to measure the difference. 

2 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said:

Is it getting upto the correct temp? Some barry hasnt removed/gutted the thermostat?

Yep temp gauge sits in the middle and it gets up there in a few minutes. 

Have ordered a new efi temp sensor in case that one is telling the ecu it's cold and making it richer. 

15 minutes ago, Bling said:

When were the plugs last replaced?

I've only had the car a few months, and not in my ownership. They look to have been there a while, but how long is a mystery! Plugs are on my list of bits to get.

Anyone with an opinion on which plug? Or is that one of those Ford vs Holden questions?!

8 hours ago, Muncie said:

Feed it some injector cleaner for a few tanks of  petrol then a new fuel filter. 

An important question.... is it dead standard? A slightly taller tyre for instance can make the car work a bit harder and use more petrol. 

Service everything good oil of the correct grade tyre pressures correct will all help to get it more efficient.

Any recommendation on an injector cleaner? Or are they all same same?

Yep she's not modded at all, plain vanilla Corolla. 

4 hours ago, Bling said:

It's probably not too bad, given 1/4 of the trip to and from work it's warming up.

Our modern daily 2.4L gets about that mileage. Technology!

Yes our family car is a 2.4l people mover and it's not much more thirsty...

2 hours ago, Seedy Al said:

Yeah sounds good to me. But yeah. Will depend on km of engine,  servicing etc. When was the air cleaner last replaced?  Spark plugs checked and gapped.  Ya ya ya..

 

Goes hard for what it is.

New air cleaner a month ago, good point though.

Checked the plugs today, all gapped about .039 in old money, but all quite black which suggested it may be a bit rich. 170km on car, not entirely convinced that the engine has been there since day 1 though. 

The Idle Air Control Valve is a bit sticky, have cleaned it a couple of times but still not quite right. Doubt I'm losing much mileage there though.

54 minutes ago, azzurro said:

yep, anywhere from 6.0 to 8.0, mine ae101 wag) was averaging around 7ish, but yours would be at the higher end of the range but still pretty good,

Engine may be getting tired, need a tune up, tyres inflated, handbrake adjusted, wheel alighnment etc etc?

 

BTW if you want to do an engine refresh im trying to sell a genuine toyota timing belt kit, water pump, upper engine gaskets and an exedy clutch kit that i never used.

Thanks for the offer, wish I'd known about it a couple of months ago when I bought a clutch! Thanks anyway.

Yes I was wondering if there's just a few small things like handbrake etc holding it back a bit. Looks like since it's in the right ballpark that sort of stuff is about all that is likely to be out of order. Cheers.

Anybody out there with a 1.6 Corolla (4afe) with any info on fuel economy? I've got a 97 manual hatchback that seems a bit thirstier than it should be, not sure whether I'm expecting miracles from it or if that's just the way a 4afe Corolla is. 

Driven quietly to work and back, very few stops on the way and no hills (it's about 25km), I'm getting 7.9litres/100km. 

Thanks for any info!

49 minutes ago, Seedy Al said:

BNT here do flywheel grounds for free when you buy a kit from them.

this maybe a trade only thing tho.........

 

however, the real question, is why wouldnt you?

Well, the car is my second car, which will become my daughters car when she gets her restricted. So if I put a clutch in it and it's not flash I have plenty of time, and another car to use while I pull it apart, possibly buy another new clutch (2 clutches from rockauto is still cheaper than 1 at trade from bnt, and for me at least the grind wasn't free), get a grind done, and put it together again. The car is probably only going to do another 20000km in our ownership so if by not grinding I risk it lasting less than the 100000km it may last by doing the whole job it's still more than likely to last longer than I need. It is also going to be driven by a young woman driver, so maybe it will last another 100000km, or it may have a high likelihood of giving someone a shunt at the lights in a couple of months which would write it off since it's of low value. The guts of it is that by doing it cheap it will probably do the job, the downside of doing it cheap is not that big, and if doing it "right" is unlikely to gain anything I won't take that route. If doing it right is more than likely to gain something then I'd do it right.

42 minutes ago, smokin'joe said:

would you install a new set of rings without honing the bores ?

Well, if I asked that question in a thread most of the responses would be "shit no", from people who had always honed, and there would be very few responses from people who had successfully done rings without honing from which I could make a decision! However there seem to be a lot of people out there who have done clutches, and it's about 50/50 as to if they grind or not. So no I wouldn't do rings without a hone, because I've got no experience of it and don't know of anybody that has, but I do have some (past) experience of doing a clutch without grinding, and there seem to be many others that do.

Really it's all about the job I expect the car to do once it's done, and the length of ownership that I foresee.

Thanks! 

Yeah that sounds about like I thought, I'll see what I find when it's apart and probably just bolt it all together with fingers crossed.

Thinking waaaay back I can recall trouble with a new clutch release bearing that disintegrated into a pile of carbon straight after fitting (manufacturing defect), it's the only occasion I experienced any fault in a new clutch. 

Thanks for the responses.

Gidday, my old corolla needs a new clutch and I'm told by BNT that no clutch manufacturer will guarantee their clutch unless the flywheel is ground. First I've heard of this as it's a long time since I changed a clutch.

Is the flywheel grind a significant issue, or is it one of those stupid things that are put in place to give the maker an out if their product is no good? A bit like if you cross the road down the road from a pedestrian crossing and get hit by a tourist ACC will tell you you've been reckless and maybe you should shoulder the blame, when really the tourist was an idiot on the wrong side of the road and you didn't see them coming because they were going the wrong way?

I've got no objection to getting the grind done if it's likely to be a problem by not doing it, but if it's a case of there was this one clutch in 1975 that failed due to no grind with no other failures recorded since then I'll not bother.

Cheers.