ivan2000

Does anyone know the process for installing rear seatbelts into a mk1 escort? I know you don't legally need them, but would like them for kids etc. Can a regular LV cert guy certify them?

The freight isnt cheap but you get the goods in 4 or 5 days. I mainly used them for window rubbers etc. I thought their prices were good, but I was comparing them to palmside. Might look around next time.

Ive bought heaps from burtons, pretty good company to deal with. Didn't buy arms from them cos the freight cost brings them up to about the same as nicks arms on trademe.

Thanks. I took car to certifier with a printout of the rally design website. After a bit of umming and arring he signed it off. Just waiting for the plate to arive. Will finally be on the road!!

Thats the ones. I found his phone number but goes straight to vioicemail. Think he must be overseas. The photo on his add is the same as http://www.motorsport-tools.com. I asked these guys about branding, the told me that they get there parts from rally design. Just sending an email to find out whether Rally design make them or buy them in

shit loads

Should have bought direct

Sory.. just thought I'd try my luck.

Thanks looks like the ones

Look like these ones but yellow bushes. http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=7184 Could probably pass as these, just annoying not knowing for sure. Horse25 might be right.

True

They are the rubber bushed version of these. Bright yellow bushes You might be right.

Not welded. Think there is a rule saying that these type of parts must be tracable back to a manufacturer incase they fail. The arms look pretty safe to me.

Took my escort to the certifier and was told to find out where my ajustable arms were made and what brand they are. Thought this would be easy until I tried to contact the guy I bought them off.. he seems to have disappeared. Was hoping someone who has bought these same arms will recognise the add and can give me a brand name to google. http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=559561556 Otherwise is there a way around this problem? Thanks

Sounds like the easiest option. Thanks

I'm guessing this has to be done by a speedo shop?

Just wanting some advice on my inaccurate speedo. Im running a 2ltr cortina engine with tpye 9 five speed, and a 4.11 diff in a mk1 escort. Took it to the cert guy who told me the speedo was reading about 15% too high. I've pulled out the speedo drive and counted 22 teeth. I have searched the net and found you can buy 23, 24 and 25 tooth drives. Need to know whether I can swap this part without changing any other parts, and which one to buy. I have also considered bigger tyres. Any other ideas? I have read the other topics but was hoping for more specific advice. Thanks!

Just had my shocks shortened to suit some dobi lowering springs and am not that happy with how they sit in the spring cups. The ends of the springs don't sit that well in the moulded keeps. It almost seems like the springs are not quite wide enough. They would probably work fine but I don't want any hasles when I get the car certed. Am I just being fussy? Also the top nut needs to be slightly loose for the shock to move in the top mount (for steering). Is this right?

I'm running 2Ltr pinto with coby extractors in my mk1 escort, using standard booster setup. It all fits in although my clutch cables a bit close to exhaust. Also depends what engine mounts you use as these determine the position of the engine (and the extractors) in the engine bay. The cert guy told me that standard brakes wouldn't cut it, so I used mk2 struts and steering rack, and vented capri discs and spacers. Havn't had it tested yet for cert so cant garauntee, but its an improvement from standard.

Will just leave it at 1mm and move on. Thanks for the advice

Was just thinking... the 'boot flexing problem' will be reduced slightly when the wheels are on, and the cars sitting on the ground. The tie rod ends will be sitting straighter when the suspention is compressed.

When the wheels are turned the bj rubber boot sticks out further because the joint is fully flexed over. I think the joints are the same left and right but I will check. I'm just concerned that the heat from the disc will damage the boot. Thanks for the tips. Maybe I'm worrying for nothing. I also had to remove backing plates as they were rubbing. Might be able to modify them if they are important.

Ive just put capri vented discs on my mk2 struts with a caliper spacer kit. It all bolted up ok but the tie rod ends were touching the disc when I turned to full lock. I put new rod ends on from BNT and now I have about 1mm clearance. Is this going to be a problem for the cert? I'm doing the brake upgrade to get a cert for a 2ltr conversion.