Benno

Did a little more research, some sort of adaptation of something like this could be do-able http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snaa088/snaa088.pdf

I'm keen on rigging up some sort of rev limiter for the escort and reckon it would be pretty cool to get some launch control/2-step. What would be ideal would be a normal rev limiter set to say 7000 rpm with a micro switch under the clutch pedal which reduces the rev limit to say 4000 rpm when the clutch is depressed for some hilarious launches/annoying the neighbours. The escort has standard dizzy and coil setup, nothing fancy. I am keen to rig up some sort of device that triggers a relay which pulls the coil negative to ground when the revs exceed the set limit to cut spark.

Has anyone done anything like this before? I am reasonable at electronics but not feeling super motivated to design and test a frequency counter type circuit from scratch. My first google search didn't come up with much, thought I'd ask here before I pushed on too much further.

I see you can get something like this from AliExpress but not convinced that would be any more reliable then something I rigged up myself. I have also contemplated getting a cheap adjustable shift light, gutting it and hooking it up to the relay contact but maybe not super cheap by the time I bought two.

I like the idea of different locations, not too bothered though

No idea if they are any good or not https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-Air-Horn-150DB-Complete-Set-Super-Loud-Single-Trumpet-Compressor-for-Trucks-Cars-Automobiles-Lorry/32606958724.html?

Kinda relevant, I got one of these for my GT 750 and it is sweet, loud as fuck and decent tone.

Patent Product  loud car klaxon horn 12V car styling parts loudnes 110db waterproof dustproof Teflon coating technology car horn
http://s.aliexpress.com/3IrEv2aa
(from AliExpress Android)

Yeah, something isn't right there. My escort used to do about 4100 rpm at 100km/h with a 4.1 diff in it. I've now switched to a 3.54 diff and it does about 3500 rpm at the same speed. Can't remember what my tyre profile is, but your still seems way off.

Make sure you have Adblock. http://vidzi.tv/8ft3p7ekz8kc.html

About to watch it myself now.

Ideal, cheers.

Average camera phone photos sorry, can try get some clearer photos of any relevant pages in better light though.

http://imgur.com/a/ePHxK

I want to check my tappet clearances, but am not sure exactly what I should be setting them too.

I have a Ford 1600 crossflow  motor with an unknown cam in there. The car has a fairly lumpy idle, but I don't have a clue what the cam is. Not overly keen on taking too much apart to figure out what the cam is if I can avoid it.

The haynes manual says to set the clearances to intake: 0.25 mm, exhaust: 0.55 mm. Kent Cams specifies 0.36 mm Inlet/ 0.46mm Exhaust for a BCF2 cam.

Suggestions what I should be setting them to?? What is worse, too tight or too loose?

I'm really happy with my cheap chinese Honda Civic radiator I got from STA ($140). 

My mate that welded the tabs on the side and moved the inlet for me said that the alloy seemed OK, didn't have any problems welding etc. Been in the car and going well for almost 2 years now, never had any issues with it.

It's currently got a 2 piece driveshaft with UJs. I will look into getting a single piece shaft for it, seems like the best alternative.

Loose flywheel, the bolts had all loosened off until they were pretty much finger tight. The bolt holes have a tiny bit of damage to them, but should hopefully be sweet when bolted back up properly. Didn't look like there was any loctite used last time. Will get it skimmed, new clutch, new bolts and get it all back together with some loctite on this time.

Doing the diff swap while I've got the driveshaft off.

I'm currently in the process of swapping my diff head (4.1 ratio) with a new one (3.5 ratio) in my escort. When I had a read of the Haynes manual, they talk about the Escort 1600 having a CV joint in the 2 piece driveshaft and the 1300 having the UJs.

Is there any point in trying to track down an escort 1600 driveshaft? My current one is in decent condition, no issues or vibrations but the centre bearing probably needs some attention. 

I'm also keen to find out. I phoned Canterbury Brake & Clutch and was quoted $280-$500 depending on what work is required, I have been recommended Undercar but haven't given them a ring yet.

Looks good. Another option might be to look at getting the wheels vapour blasted. Again, they don't come out a polished finish but they come out looking like they have been painted with a satin paint. They are also resistant to oil/brake dust etc as the finish is basically new aluminium.

Photos below taken from facebook, https://www.facebook.com/vapourblastingsouthcanterbury/

Reg on hold right? If so, couldn't you just get a wof from that guy? No need to take it somewhere else

Hi Simon, booster is fitted to a ford escort mark 2.

I'm pretty sure my brake booster has developed a vacuum leak. When I get on the brakes, the engine seems to lean out, stumble and will sometimes even stall. The wideband gauge also reads lean. I will confirm the brake booster is to blame for sure by going for a quick drive with the booster disconnected/blocked off, but would be surprised if it wasn't the problem. As it doesn't vacuum leak when the brakes are not applied, I am pretty sure it is not just the check valve.

Is this something I can fix myself? Most websites seem to say I should just send it off to an expert. If so, how much would a new diaphragm etc cost me? Is it fairly self explanatory and easy to figure out? If not, any recommendations on somewhere (ideally Christchurch) that I should send it, and how much would I expect to pay?

When I take the master cyl off I will have a look at that too, may turn out it's leaking fluid or something.

Yeah YouTube is your best bet, you need to remove the glove box and take out a bolt too

Shouldn't take 6 months to get some new springs into it to get a more respectable ride height!

Yeah, if anyone had any advice/tips on making a fibreglass tail please let me know. I am currently planning on basically following this process, maybe on a steel/alloy base

https://youtu.be/AT6P7qaUPLw

https://youtu.be/klcwT2IMznU

Haven't really done much on this recently. Stripped the carbs down and managed to get it running nicely on 4. De-tabbed the rear of the frame and started a little CAD (cardboard aided design) to figure out my plans for it. Am currently thinking I will make a fibreglass cafe racer hump on it, still not sure if it will look odd being so long. Might need to look into trimming the frame back a bit.

http://www.throttleroll.com/dirt-masters-2016/