Benno
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Posts posted by Benno
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Got the dash all finished off, pretty happy with how it looks now. Got a colour matched rattle can and a can of matte clear. Looks fairly close to the original.
Found someone on facebook who had adapted a factory manifold to suit a weber 32/36 carb, similar to a geddes speed one.
I think I'll give it a crack, I've got a couple of spare manifolds so doesn't really matter if I screw one up. Plan is to cut off the raised mount, make a new carb flange out of 10-12mm Al plate, get that welded on then have a go at matching with a die grinder.
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Stil haven't got much major progress on this, ticking away on the little things.
I've been slowly working on cleaning and polishing the trims by hand with some autosol, most of them are coming up nicely.
The original dash had been hacked up to take a head unit. The car came with a replacement, but it had some rust. Cleaned that up, painted with some Brunox and got a colour match can and some matte clear. Also made a new tray, will cover with some vinyl.
Came with a set of extractors that had a couple of rust holes. Welded up the holes, cleaned off the surface rust and painted with some hi-temp paint. Doubt it will last long, but will hopefully keep the surface rust at bay until I get the car up and running.
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1 minute ago, kyteler said:
Just make a manifold with 6 branches to siamese at the port?
Could be an option. Otherwise I have a twin choke Weber off the escort I could probably make a manifold up for
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7 minutes ago, kyteler said:
6 FCR 41mm Keihins?
Three, it shares inlet ports between 1/2, 3/4, 5/6 but something like that could be the go if I decide to keep the zephyr six motor.
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1 hour ago, yetchh said:
Are you gonna twin crab it?
Keeping a casual eye out for a twin carb manifold, something might crop up. I'm yet to decide if I'm going to stick with the original motor or do a barra swap, so not too keen on sinking big money into bits for this motor yet. Will see how it runs once I get it on the road.
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Just been doing little things on this. So far I've rebuild the starter motor, windscreen wiper motor and a carb with the best bits from several.
Found a wee bit of rust on the guard, fixed that.
Fixed the transmission tunnel, someone had cut it out for a floor shifter with what seemed to be an axe
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I got one of these https://www.herbosequipment.co.nz/collections/welding-supplies/products/160a-inverter-mig-tig-arc-welder
Comes with a 10A plug so no dramas with needing a 15A outlet. Really happy with it so far, even a shitty welder like myself can lay some alright beads with it.
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5 minutes ago, tortron said:
Bolt through the B pillar.is pretty standard on old stuff
So no dramas with revin even if not factory? Fairly confident that a bolt like that isn't factory.
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The motor that came with it had been pulled apart, most key bits were there but was missing a piston. The brother of the guy who sold it had a mk2 motor that was running when removed from a car 15 years ago. I picked that up at the weekend. Turns over, seems to have compression. Even if it's a dud it should have all the bits I need.
A previous owner has poorly installed bucket seats and aftermarket seatbelts. The seatbelts have been bolted through the B pillar.
I am sure this will be a problem with the revin. How are the seatbelts supposed to work? Do they anchor from the B pillar from factory? My workshop manual has the following, but most of the pictures I have found online seem to have a mounting point on the B pillar.
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Found myself a new project.
Car was last on the road in 1993, then the registration went dead but the rego is still in the system. Previous owner bought the car around '98 with plans of putting a 302 into it. A few years later he took the car to a panelbeater to get some rust fixed and bodywork done. The bill came back a lot more then expected so the car got mothballed to a hay shed. A mk4 zodiac came up a few years later that had already had a certified V8 conversion so he snapped that up and the mk3 stayed in the shed.
The car only had minor rust (guards, doors, boot etc) to begin with, there was no damage to the chassis or sills. A bit of minor rust has come back since then, but a sweet barn find.
The car was in Methven and had a heap of spares with it. It was pretty heavy towing back.
It came with the engine pulled apart and a heap of heads, manifolds and bits. The guy that sold it to me knows someone with a mk2 motor that ran when pulled out, so I will snap that up.
Long term plans for it once revinned will be some slam, wide steels and eventually an engine swap to a V8 or a barra.
Am I best to get a repair certifier to come and look at it so I can get the rust signed off before I strip it back and paint? I'm thinking that might be easier while everything is pulled apart rather than taking through revin in primer, then pulling everything back apart to paint. Any ideas on how hard this would be and cost?
Discuss here:
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Discuss here.
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Been pretty useless updating this. Scrapped the front lip, decided it didn't really suit the car.
Since my last update, I've done a few things. I've fitted a set of DHLA 40 sidedrafts and a new rocker cover. The sound of the side drafts is amazing and throttle response is much better.
Got a new rocker cover. Purchased from jrcast.com, took a couple of months to arrive but worth the wait. Stoked with the quality and finish.
I 3D printed a FORD badge to attach to my oval style front grille. Really happy with the result, can only tell it's not real when looking clsoely at it.
Got a new project coming soon, will put a thread up when I get the car.
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Yeah, I'm planning on making an appearance
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What software did you use? I used to use eagle before it was sold to autodesk. Haven't tried it lately, dunno what the free license is like now
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Diode probably not really necessary, there to protect against any back EMF from the automotive circuits. Battery should basically act as a massive sink and absorb any spikes from large motors such as the starter but I already have a few 1N4007 diodes lying around which should do the trick.
I'm generally not stressing about protection etc, if the rev limiter fucks out then I won't be any worse off then I am currently. I'm not planning on revving to hit limiter every time I drive it or anything.
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I was thinking I'd just use a LM7805 with a diode and a couple of capacitors, but something like that would probably be a better solution.
Although so far my spend has been about $10 bucks for the arduino nano, some resistors, zener diode, relay module and an IP56 enclosure to suit. A $5 regulator to protect my $2.50 arduino nano and $1 relay seems a but overkill haha.
Once I get it working properly I'll chuck up a schematic, a parts list and my code.
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Managed to get my first prototype working.
I've got an Arduino set up which is reading the RPM and switching the relay when the RPM exceeds the limit. I haven't looked at the 2-strp functionality just yet.
Kinda hard to hear over the fan, but it limits at about 5000 in the video. I will get an Arduino nano and sort out a voltage regulator circuit and should be good to go hopefully.
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42 minutes ago, NickJ said:
How well do relays last when switching points, would a solidstate option be slightly better here?
The method I was looking into was cutting every 3/5/7 spark to ensure the cut cylinder is shared around, with the arduino you could bracket the amount of cut in line with the rate of rise.
I've been using a LM2907 for getting digital rpm information to my datalogger, works really well
I was also a bit concerned about the life of the relay, but then realised I (probably) won't actually be revving it to hit the limiter that often. If I was, the relay probably wouldn't be the first point of failure haha. Under normal use the relay will just be in the normally closed position not actually switching anything.
Certainly something to think about in the future though.
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Did some work on this, pretty happy with progress so far.
I've smashed together a basic circuit with some diodes and resistors and am able to fairly accurately and reliably read the engine RPM (+/- 100 rpm) using an Arduino. The circuit is connected to the points output/coil negative terminal. I've got an arduino nano ordered off Aliexpress which should do the trick nicely.
I've ordered a couple of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5V-Low-Level-Trigger-One-1-Channel-Relay-Module-DC-AC-220V-Interface-Relay-Board-Shield/32801667044.html and am planning on putting the relay between the points output and the coil.
The relay common will connect to the coil -ve. The normally closed contact will connect to the points, the other contact to GND. So with the arduino I'll be able to pull the coil -ve to GND, essentially cutting spark. When the arduino is not energised everything is wired as normal, so if there are any issues I can just pull the power to it. I will cut spark for a time somehow proportional to the RPM. Will have to do some testing to find out exactly how long this needs to be, unless anyone has any suggestions? Any idea what normal rev limiters use?
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4 hours ago, ajg193 said:
Switch on clutch pedal would probably be a bad idea. What happens when you are trying to shift gears at high RPM? You'd end up key banging and lurching all over the place.
I'm not convinced that is a terrible idea, if I'm driving round nanaing it I won't be reving it much higher then 4K anyway.
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3 minutes ago, cletus said:
If you still have an escort diff, you will probably also need a good supply of spider gears/axles if you use it as intended
Yeah? I was more worried about the gearbox tbh, I've seen escort diffs behind V8s with no worries but have seen a gearbox shatter with the massive power of a 1300 haha
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5 minutes ago, sidewaysickness said:
I have a Bee-R Rev limiter that I can sell you? Does everything you are asking and has adjustable gain so you can adjust how hard or soft it limits. Surely it could be modded to work?
I can confirm it creates savage backfires/flames/lolz
How much you want for it?
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Cheap though? I'm not keen on paying almost $100 for a reasonable unit, I am aiming more for the $10 mark.
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So if a car did not have rear seat belts from factory but is de-registered, it would require rear seat belts to be installed for re-vin?