Benno
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Posts posted by Benno
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I have heard good reviews for kilmat, purchased from amazon. I haven't used it myself yet, but plan to at this stage
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Just now, Bling said:
Might have to spend some time with the Brembo (or similar) rotor catalog. If lucky, you might find some that just need the diameter machining down or similar. What sort of size are they? Do they share brakes with any other models that you know of?
From my research, it seems capri rotors are similar. The height of the rotors is off by 2mm and the centre bore is a bit too small, but could probably be machined to fit. Unsure about the PCD, but the Zephyr discs are also 4 stud so could be redrilled if necessary.
I think I'll get the existing rotors skimmed and see how bad they are, should be good enough to get me through revin at least.
https://www.nzautomotive.co.nz/products/disc-rotors-ft-ford-capri-cortina-escort-mk1-245mm
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My Zephyr brake rotors have some fairly deep rust pitting. I have tried to find new rotors, without any luck.
I have spoken to someone who could machine some for me from billet steel. Would these be legal, for re-vin and WOFs?
Apart from accelerating wear to the discs, would there be any issues from remaining pitting if I got my existing rotors machined to at or near the minimum manufacturers tolerance?
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I've got an Accuspark in the escort. No problems with it, so much smoother and less maintenance than the points were
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Fixed the small rust patch in the floor and filled the holes that had been drilled to install the bucket seats. All the rest of the rust came off with a wire wheel.
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Sanded off most of the paint, especially on any areas which looked like there might be any surface rust. I've painted it using Brunox to catch any last bits of rust
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I also have one of those, I'm happy with it. Works well for both MIG and arc welding.
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Still chipping away at stripping and sanding the floor pans.
Decided to blow off some dust with some compressed air, I was surprised at how much crap came out when I poked it into the sill. I used my aliexpress special inspection camera, which worked surprisingly well. Rigged up a hose on the vacuum cleaner, worked a treat to clear it out. Fortunately no serious rust, once I've got them painted I'll fill it with cavity wax.
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Stripping the floor pans. Using a strip disc, wire wheel and 80 grid sandpaper. Running low on materials, so might need to go on hold soon until after quarantine is lifted.
I'm going to use brunox and a satin black top coat. Eventually I will lay down some Kilmat (or similar) before carpet, but planning on taking through Revin first.
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Mostly strip disc on the grinder. Used a wire brush attachment for the grinder and drill to get some of the bits round the seams. Manual sanding with 80 grit for the rest.
No worries mate, I'll probably have heaps of questions when it comes to reassembling it!
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On 05/04/2020 at 18:12, yetchh said:
How far did you strip it back? Got any pics?
Mostly to bare metal. Didn't get any pics of it just before paint unfortunately, here is about 90% stripped.
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Got most of my font suspension bits stripped, rust treated with phosphoric acid and into epoxy primer. I will get some 2K black when I can. I'm going to get the struts converted to gas.
Stripped the brake calipers down. The pistons had a bit of rust, but the housings have cleaned up well. Ordered a rebuild kit with new pistons.
Took out the poorly installed front bucket seats and test fitted the bench seat.
For some reason when they installed the bucket seats they had drilled new holes directly next to the mounting points for the original seat. Hopefully can patch without too much drama. Floor pan is generally pretty good, mostly surface rust. Only found one rust hole about the size of a finger nail so far.
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After the rust has been removed, is there any recommendations for a coating to protect it? I've seen ok reviews of those por-15 kits bit they are on the pricey side
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Slowly but surely making some progress on this. Got the engine bay stripped and into epoxy primer.
I've removed the dash and the first bit of sound deadening. Bit of rust under the sound deadening, but nothing major so far. Found a small hole around the size of a 10c coin but that should be easy to sort. Planning on cleaning floor back with a wire wheel and treating with Brunox, before overcoating. Probably will just brush it on, doesn't need to look pretty.
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I'm waiting for one of these to come on special https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/7083-toolshed-sander-polisher-random-orbital-150mm
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I have a similar problem with some scratching on the Zephyr windscreen from the wiper blades. I read some good online reviews and watched some youtube videos on using a Cerium Oxide based kit, with good results.
I have ordered this AliExpress kit but still waiting for it to arrive: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32998964636.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77c64c4ddpMBmk
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10 hours ago, Cobranz said:
Was it a good trip back over the hill @Benno? The old.man is happy they have gone to.someone who will.make good use of it.
Yeah, the otira gorge was a bit slow but made it all good. Stoked with all the bits, thanks!
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8 hours ago, yetchh said:
Is the factory colour peppermint green?
Nah, factory colour seems to be beige. Will be painting it Oxford Blue eventually
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A guy on facebook was giving away some motors and parts, after finishing his project. Drove over to Greymouth to collect them. Now got 4 parts motors, so should hopefully have enough good bits when it comes to building a motor for it.
Finished stripping the engine bay, removed suspension and cross member. I have made a start removing the underseal from the guards, only been finding some light surface rust so far. Will continue removing the undereseal and make a start bare metalling the engine bay next.
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I got mine from herbos for around $130. I'm really happy with it, is working great for me.
https://www.herbosequipment.co.nz/products/argon-twin-gauge-regulator
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Been making some slow progress on this. Go the guards and front valance off and engine bay nearly stripped now. Just got to take the steering box and column out now. No nasty surprises so far which is nice.
In more exciting news, I've got my hands on some triple carbs for it. Not sure what the condition of the SU's is like, but externally they look all good.
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Starting to chip away at the paint on this. Bare metalled both sides of the bonnet, treated with some phosphoric acid then painted with epoxy primer. Didn't take any photos once I'd finished bare metalling, below is after the paint stripper starting on the bits close to seams and cavities.
Got the first side done, will flip it over once the paint has dried and do the other side. Few wee runs, but generally happy enough with how it has come out.
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1 hour ago, Bling said:
Can you prep and seam seal the areas you'll be working on? Capillary action between layers means shit will get drawn in further than you'll ever be able to clean out. Might be able to get seam sealer that is solvent resistance and so would stand up to the rest of your work. You'd still need to be super careful around the seams though.
I'm starting off with prepping and painting the bonnet. It's easy to get to and will hopefully be easy enough to spot if there is any returning rust. I'm planning on carefully taping off the seam at the front giving myself around 20mm to the seam.
Is seam sealer paint stripper resistant? I have some turgostrip from RJP, it's pretty powerful stuff.
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How careful do I need to be with paint stripper and seams? I am planning on paint stripping (clean off with water), treating with phosphoric acid (wash off with water), rubbing back with scotch-brite/prepsol then painting with 2K epoxy primer. I was reading some threads online that recommended maintaining min 20mm from any seams to stop the stripper tracking.
Provided I wash the stripper off carefully with water, is this something I need to be concerned with? How about with the phosphoric acid, do I need to do similar with this?
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Sound deadening
in Tech Talk
Posted
Did you get 50mil or 80mil?