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Posts posted by Benno
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2 hours ago, yetchh said:
Hey @Benno what did you pay for those SU's? These triple zeniths have come up on the tard that I'm fairly keen on picking up. They're fairly pricey but then again they never come up.
Talked to zep (galeforce zephyrs) a while back and he reckoned the triple zeniths had more initial punch than su's but its a struggle to get an air filter to fit under the bonnet..
I paid $350 for them, manifold is homemade but should do the trick. I saw those, wee bit pricey but they're the first setup like that I have seen up for sale so probably worth it.
A mate of mines dad said he went from twin zodiac zeniths to triple SUs back in the day and preferred the SUs.
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Got a container of bolts, nuts and brackets vapour blasted and zinc plated. Really happy with the result, certainly beats manually cleaning them with a wire brush and painting.
Got the brake MC rebuilt by Undercar.
Been busy with the strip disc removing all the paint from the boot and body. Found a few less than ideal repairs, covered with lots of bog. Considered just bogging it back up, but decided it would always annoy me if I did so going to get it fixed by a panelbeater. Will get the crushed sills fixed properly at the same time.
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Got the fuel tank painted in 2K black.
Took the front and rear windscreens out and doors off. Fortunately no rust around the window frames which I was a bit worried about.
Now working on the boot area. While I'm removing paint, sound deadening and rust I've got some of the diff mounts in the electrolysis bath to clean up.
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Got the fuel tank back. First pic is before it went to the radiator shop. Had the remainder of an existing liner in there, so he had to split it and sandblast to get the new liner to stick. He also knocked out the worst of the old dents, so I am happy with the outcome. Stuck some brunox on there and have got into epoxy.
Found some denting on the sills which is a bit annoying. Guessing it has fallen off a jack at some stage, unfortunately it's got similar damage on both sides. Not sure what I will do here yet, I think it is within the VIRM spec so I might see if I can just get signoff for it, then bog it up later on.
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1 hour ago, Mk3 said:
What did you find out about belts on b pillar?
I'm about to take my mk3 for Revin and am worried about my belt mounts requiring cert.
Nothing concrete. I put a post on facebook and several others also had the bolt though the piller. I think it must have been an NZDM thing, hence it didn't make it into the workshop manuals.
Let me know how you get on please.
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Got it back, pretty happy with it. Needed quite a bit more work than a quick dip and liner, but he only charged me $400 for the lot.
He ended up having to cut open the tank, sand blast it and weld back up. He also fixed some dents and re-welded a baffle while he was at it. Would trade again.
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I paid $180 for a ball joint rebuild for a Zephyr control arm from HBI. Great service, fast turnaround.
But for something which is easy to get new, just buy some new ones.
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1 hour ago, Bling said:
Got it back yet? Tempted to get mine done, but wondering what it cost / timeframe?
Haven't got it back yet, the liner didn't stick. They reckoned there was an old liner in there, which wasn't obvious and wasn't removed by the acid. I said I wasn't in a massive rush to get it back, so they've still got it to sort it out. Not sure what their solution is going to be next.
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1 hour ago, moparmuppet said:
Looking good. What is the brand of epoxy primer you are brushing on? Looks plenty fine for underneath and no messy overspray is a win. Thanks.Vaughan
Thanks. I am using PPG Epotec 408 primer
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Finished removing the underseal. What a shit job, lying under the car scraping with a chisel. Only a bit of surface rust, cleaned up no worries with a strip disc and wire brush.
Gave it a coat of Brunox, scuffed up with scotchbrite and brush painted with epoxy primer. Not mint, but good enough for the underside. Just need to move the stands and do the same for the jacking points now.
Getting the fuel tank dipped and lined, rear brake cylinders sleeved at the moment. Next, I will tidy up and paint the diff and fuel tank.
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I've got mine getting dipped, cleaned and lined at Hornby Radiator shop at the moment. Should get it back next week, will report how it went when I get it back.
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Argoshield, the gas n go bottles are labelled as MIG GAS at bunnings
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Slowly but surely getting on top of the rust. Got the boot floor patches all welded in and painted with epoxy.
Been working on getting the outer edge sorted.
Wasn't keen to section the whole length to get the curve right. Got myself a shrinker/stretcher which made things much easier. My first attempt was to make a jig which had the right curve, bend a right angle then hammer to form a profile. Results weren't great, so back to square one.
Cut, bent and welded some box tubing to get a curve the same as the boot. Welded and clamped on the bent and stretched angle, hammered flat.
I butt and plug welded it on.
Now just working through smoothing out the welds with a flap disc and power file.
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If you want a quick and easy, but effective rust kill/coating Brunox is king.
Can get a brush-on or spray on coating type. Grind off the CRC shit, Brunox over the rust, hit with 2K epoxy primer and live happily ever afterwards.
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All sorted, found someone with one. Thanks anyway
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6 minutes ago, sidewaysickness said:
I've got one in Ashburton, shitty Chinese one though so its a bit hit and miss if it will read what you want it to
Thanks mate, wee bit far to justify though I reckon.
Cheers
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The check engine light has come on on the daily (2007 ford mondeo), has anyone got an OBD scan tool I could borrow?
The one at supercheap didn't work for some reason.
Cheers, Ben
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Got the boot floor repair patch sorted, made a wooden template and hammered the side to suit.
Cleaned off as much rust as I could in the boot strengthening crossmember, treated with Brunox. I will paint the areas I can with some epoxy primer, will get some cavity wax down to the areas I can't before I weld the floor path in.
Started making a patch for the boot edge. Started off with my high quality sheet metal brake
Clamped and welded to some SHS, hammered to get the right profile
Fairly happy with the end result, will still need some minor shaping before I weld it in
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Where in NZ sells butt welding panel clamps? I ordered some of these a couple of months back, still haven't shown. Ideally would prefer to pay less than $50 for four from machinery house or restospares.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mt49Yeh
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Got the spare tyre well sorted.
Working on making up a patch for the boot floor. Made a template out of some rebar and plywood, used my hydraulic press to form the steel.
Came up fairly well. Next step was to bend up the edge, I used two bits of EA welded together to make the basic shape, then hammered using a bit of flat bar.
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I have had no problems with the toolshed ones. Still fairly cheap, but they cut well and last ok. Similar with their flap discs
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7 hours ago, bonkas said:
Thread dredge... Not sure if your still around @Benno - How far along did you get with this? was it ever completed?
No, got a prototype working but ended up using the Arduino for something else and never got around to getting it finished off
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Got the fuel tank, rear suspension and diff out.
Did a bit of digging around the fuel tank filler and found a bit of a nasty surprise. A rust hole under the filler had been filled up with silicon. There was a bit of sheet metal tacked into place and rust holes along the seam had been bogged up. Haven't quite figured out how I'm going to fix the holes along the outer side yet. It will be mostly hidden by the bumper, but will be incredibly difficult to grind any repairs smooth.
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Ben's 1964 mk3 Zephyr
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
I decided that if I bogged up the rear quarter and sills, it would always annoy me. Planning on keeping this car, so wanted to get it right. After I'd finished stripping the car I took it to a panelbeater, who is doing an awesome job so far. Getting a repair cert done at the same time to try to make re-vin as easy as possible. So far so good, but covid has put a bit of a handbrake on getting it finished off and back.