NickTheFox

Any chance someone has some dxf files for a Hilux disc brake conversion for AE92 calipers and s13 rotors? It's a simple flat plate conversion bracket, would be sweet to save some time by just getting some laser cut instead of starting from scratch though.

Also has anyone had a hilux LSD modified by REMSD? They modified the clutch plates to have proper ramps. It's 950 plus gst and a exchange unit to get done so would like to get some feedback before pulling the trigger on one.

 Cheeeeers

My coupe is the same

Hey guys, I'm looking to get my AE86 shell garnet blasted. Has anyone recently used any of the companies in the Wellington region? So far I'm likely to go with either steam or Sand in Porirua or the guy in Montgomery Cresent Upper Hutt. I heard the crowd in Seaview are only really good for heavy duty stuff.

Would be keen to hear from anyone experience.

Chur

Sweet that's kinda what I was thinking you would say. Now to do some research on a good respirator that will protect me but not rape what's left of my savings hahaha

Thanks for the replies guys. I just have one more question for the interior I'm stripping out the sound deadnening, cleaning any shit of the paint, giving it a quick scratch down then spraying it in the 2k durepox epoxy, would I need to apply a top 2k coat to this or would the primer provide enough protection?

Just after abit of advice here. I am currently repainting my AE85, iIve started by stripping all the paint off and addressing the rust issues. I have 4 Litres of Durepox 2k primer that im going to be using. From the research that ive done it seems that people recommend using the 2k primer over weld through primer, is this the case?

There a few places like the internal windscreen channel that I have now exposed to fix some rust is it ok to just use the primer in there or will I also need to topcoat it to get better protection?

Also regarding spray guns does it really matter the quality of the one your using if youre just laying down primer? Im trying to decide if I grab a $50 supercheap special or buy a Devilbliss kit from the states.

Im hoping Spencer sees this as he seems to be like a wise old man regarding paint

He was online yesterday, so he is still active. I found his cellphone number on an old thread so I'll try get him on that. Will let you guys know the outcome

Ahhh perfect, cheers for that Al. Glad to know I wasn't imagining things

Hey guys,

Any chance that any of you know someone that would be able to help remove a windscreen and two rear quarter windows from my ae85. The car is located in lookup in Gracefield and currently cannot be moved without a trailer...

I thought I remembered seeing a post about someone in Wellington that could do this, but I've had no luck finding the post.

Churr

What the finish stay like on vapour blasted parts say after a few years?

I'm thinking about getting some parts done but would be pretty keen to put some sort of protective layer on them either clear powder coat or 2k clear. What have others used?

I'm pretty sure they drop everything in an acid bath first which should remove paint.

One thing I've wondered about zinc playing is if you can mask off a piece to avoid it getting coated in zinc. Is this what you meant by wax paper?

Also has anyone had any experience on getting really small parts done? I've got a few small m4 bolts and nuts that I would love to get plated.

How many beers have you had Bart?

So I rebuilded the oil pump on my 1200 as it was leaking and looked like someone had used clear silicon to seal it up. I pulled it to bits and ended up using a spare pump internals that I had as they were in better shape. I tried to bench test the pump and it didn't work too well so I thought I might not have been spinning it fast enough for it to work.

I have it on the car now and have tried turning it over with coil lead off but haven't really seen any proof of it pumping correctly. Do oil pumps only start to pump once the motor is running or have I done something wrong? I understand that the pump has to suck oil up through the pickup tube so maybe just cranking an engine over does give it enough speed to be able to do this?

Any thoughts on this would be super helpful! I don't want to start up a motor with a dud pump

Hi guys, I'm after some phosphoric acid to treat some rust on my floor pan before I paint it. Does anyone know who sells plain acid and not the typical rust kill mix?

Cheers

Just seen a car on trademe that had its brake lines hidden in the engine bay. What's the cert requirements for changing them?

Thanks for the offer, I'll definitely keep that in mind. I might just post a picture with the dimensions I'm after

I was wondering if someone local has a Z that has original seats in it? I'm looking for a pair of seats to take a few measurements of them. Just trying to confirm what seats I have before ordering in new seat covers. Let me know if you can help out!

Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone could help me identify these Z seats. I brought them of a guy who said he pulled them out of a 76 or 78 260z. I'm going to buy new covers for them from this site http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08f01 However the guy said that the seats changed after 76 and so I would need to know the year. I thought all the S30 chassis cars would have the same seats. If anyone could help me tell what the seats I have are or the difference between them that would be awesome!

Here's some pictures of them, I'm almost certain the front of them has been recovered but the back vinyl is definitely original.

Chur,

Nick

Thanks for the reply mate

I could probably pretty easily do the same as I'm planning on the back to the front. Just remove the existing angle brackets and join the two rails with a piece of angle and have it extend our past the rails so I can use the original mounting points.

What's the thoughts on welding and joining brackets to rails. I'm thinking of using an 8mm bolt for the end of each rail and a small butt weld.

I'm currently in the process of putting 240z seats in my 1200 coupe. I want to make sure that how I do this will meet cert requirements as I do plan on getting cert eventually. Ive had a good through this document http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf but thought I would be a good idea to get a second opinion.

The 1200 rails are spaced further apart than the rails on a 240z seats. Because of the smaller spacing of the 240z the rails won't sit on the back mounts. The way I plan to solve this issue is by bolting and welding the rails to a peice of suitable sized angle iron which then gets bolted to the factory rear seat mounts. See the pictures below, the stainless hinge is what will be the mild steel angle.

I'm planning on bolting the two rails onto this piece of angle then maybe putting a small but weld on each rail for a little extra measure then the angle will bolt to the chassis via the original mounts

As for the front I'm planning on bending the mounting tabs slightly so they are square. They obviously don't line up with the original holes and where I would need to drill a hole there isn't that much steel. Is there any issue with welding more steel into this front brace then drilling a new hole and tacking a nut to the back of it like it is originally?

Would appreciate any help with this!

Before I got the box all bolted up I gave the tunnel a quick clean up as there was 40 odd years of oil and dirt layered on it. Not that I'm composing as it certainly has held any rust off.

I had a few issues with the clutch not disengaging which turn out to be that I needed a longer release bearing. Thankfully I was able to get another one fairly easy which did the trick. Here's the difference between the two

Once the gearbox and motor was all bolted up and I was happy with how it was sitting I went to go put in my driveshaft. It turns out that it was over 20mm too long even though the 5 speed boxes are the same length as the 4 speeds. The previous gearbox mount had the gearbox hanging much lower, so low that the heater outlet on the back of the head was smashing into the firewall. As the engine and gearbox were on such an angle the driveshaft just fitted with the old setup. Luckily my old man is a fitter so I got him to shorten up the driveshaft by 25mm. One interesting thing was that this driveshaft had already been shortened. This picture below shows what my old man found when he parted of the old weld and yoke from the driveshaft. It turns out insulation tape can be used for spacing the difference between two different pipe sizes. This would probably explain the terrible vibrations I was getting a 50kph

Once I had both boxes out I had to have them a quick clean as they were both pretty filthy.

Next step was to make a new crossmember for the new 5 speed. After a few measurements I drew this up in auto as and got my mate to laser cut it out of 10mm steel.

I drilled the holes myself as I wasn't sure how clean it would laser cut out. Here's what it looks like mounted up without round spacers that I had machine up to space the bracket from the body.

Finding a new 5 speed rubber mount to use on this without paying a fortune was a pain in the ass. In the end I got one from a ceff, I can't recall which model but it did have two studs hanging from the side which I had to cut off

I think it's well past time I updated this thread. A lot has changed since so I'll try update this thread with the progress.

One of the first things I did when I got my hands on this was to pop of the rocker cover. It was a nice surprise to see Nissan Japan on the head. This shows that it is a gx head which have bigger intake ports than a15 heads and they're pretty rare.

From now on the upgrades began, the first being a 5 speed swap. Luckily I had brought a sunny with a 5 speed a few months before buying this so I switched the 4 speed that was in this with the sunny 5 speed.

As this was originally an auto it has a bigger tunnel than the manual 1200s. The main benefit of this apart from the extra room is that you don't have any issues with the 5 speed reverse switch hitting the tunnel. Here you can see just how different they are, manual on the left auto on the right.

Well that would have been a logical thing to google rather than the shit I did

Hey guys, I'm looking for some kind of weld on cap to use on a custom alloy radiator overflow and window washer reservoir I'm making. The sort of thing I'm after is like what you see on catch cans etc. I'll try find a decent photo