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Mattt

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Posts posted by Mattt

  1. For some reason this thing came with the wrong alternator pulley. It had a 13A belt pulley and the rest of the engine needs an 11A belt so I ordered a new dual row pulley from franklin engineering. Top notch stuff they make and seriously reasonable prices for quality Nz made products. Ordered an oil sender block at the same time to run my oil pressure and temp gauge senders. Will fit that in the next couple of days.FE8B51DA-B3A4-4FAE-A62A-258CA32D25CE.thumb.jpeg.605a9b6bc774e9a3ef2525dcfd45a0e9.jpeg

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  2. 80mm seems about right. I’m not keen on bags unfortunately. I need to actually measure exactly and get some accurate figures on paper but these are pretty close. I had considered looking at a GTIR rear set up which will convert to IRS at the same time but I won’t have time for that for quite a while and it doesn’t really solve the problem of the sill height.

    I had thought about cutting up the front cross member. I’ll have to talk to a certifier about what they would want me to put back into it to keep them happy.

  3. So some of you may have seen my new project thread on my 1970 RT80 corona. I finally got around to doing some measurements today and it has occurred to me that I’m going to have issues with gravity. Details in short:

    Requires 50mm drop front and 60mm drop rear to bring guard in line with tyres. Wheels are 14”X6 and 7 wrapped in 195/45 tyres

    Front engine cross member sits about 110-115mm off the ground

    Sills sit about 130mm off the ground

    Front springs are aftermarket lowering springs. Not sure if they’re correct or off something else but they’re certififed

    Rear is hilux diff with what seem to be fairly flat leafs and 2” lowering blocks

     

    I expect to require Cert for anything I do. 
     

    What have people done to sort out this sort of gravitational issue? I don’t really want to run 17s. I was planning to replace these wheels with some Oldschool jdm wheels but wanted to stick with 14s. If I have to I could go to 15s which would mean I could get around 15mm drop front springs. Could probably get 20mm if I made up new hangers for the rear leafs. Then if I go to 15s I may be able to go with a slightly bigger tyre and get add 10mm which would bring my gap down to 25/35 which I still feel is too much. This is my first time dealing with dropping a small old school Car on 14s so sorry if this all seems a bit noob. I am a fabricator by trade so I can happily cut and mess with things but just want some advise from the voices of experience. 0DCF990B-D9A8-46A1-A27C-EB3AE587A6F8.jpeg.3fb32171f4b50b60d3f3f47a64e069fc.jpeg

  4. Right so a question for you 12A experts. I’ve heard you can “flip” the sump and run a front hump sump as a rear hump sump and just redrill the holes. I lined it up to test this theory and quickly found the oil restrictor at the front hits the sump. Is it just a matter of notching the sump for the restrictor? At this point I may just fabricate a whole new sump. I just need to sit the engine in the hole to check clearances before committing to a design.

    help!



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