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Mattt

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Posts posted by Mattt

  1. Dude the reality is alot of places like that won't charge any less than an hours labour regardless if it takes them 5 mins or 50. At tht eend of the day they're a buisness and they have to make money. My suggestion, if you need quite a bit of fab work done here and there, find a small workshop that has say 2 guys and become friends with them. Make sure their prices are reasonable and you will find as they get to know you they will help you out a bit more / charge you half an hours labour minimum etc.

    just my 2c.

  2. I had an extremely experienced tutor which taught us that. Dc electrode negative, quick squirt on the gas and shes good to go. Also just thinking about the balance of cleaning to weld or whatever it is i think the welders i used had a balance position on them so it may pay to disregard my comment on 50/50 balance.

  3. also as far as the touching it goes then yes it wil do that. Try not to touch it obviously but if you do then do the dc electrode negativ thing so that it cleans the tungsten and forms the ball again. If welding 2mm ali you will want it on roughly 70-90amps and starton around 50/50 cleaning I think. Its been a few months!

  4. I assume your meaning aluminium? No, you don't sharpen it. As said before to form a ball put it on dc and and run it for around 1 second then it will form a ball and you can switch back to ac. That's the best point to start from. Also you will find with ali you need to move quite a bit faster, as the ali heats up you will want to back of the pedal to compensate. Also I reccomend welding the last bit first so that as you are welding the last bit it doesn't open up from the heat. Its a bit of a bitch but practice and setup is everything.

    Also I'm not an expert but I am trained and practised.

  5. Basically cut your springs untill your happy with the height and then just send the springs away and make sure to get them to make them with the correct ends so they seat properly. The thing is that they make standard springs for it so they have the correct seats in a diagram somewhere so they can make those so all the need to do now is make those with the height and spring rate of your cut ones and you should be sorted.

  6. Simple, the company that make cobra springs make custom springs. Call repco and deal with someone with a little knowledge and tell them what you want and wham, springs made to your exact specs. They're about $350 a pair from memory but that's not much worse than lowering springs.

  7. haha thing with the rubber spring seats is there's not much point. its got cutties all round and I don't wanna cert it so just wanted to get some custom springs made. Also the rear springs on these don't seat properly when cut. Not keen on green stickers and the cops seem to be hot on them at the moment.

  8. Yeah its on limit except gearbox cross member is lower but that's cause its been custom made by sume legend that welded a piece of angle on it for strength and faced the angle down so its about 50mm lower than anything else. I thought it had to be 100mm loaded? Also front tires rub going over a bump on full lock.

    Sweet as ill work it out. Was just hoping some one had already done the maths for me / being lazy.

  9. Hey guys, does anypne know the ratio for height effected by spring on the ms65s. I want to get some custom springs made up and I want to make it sit 20mm higher than it is at the moment so I need to be able to advise them how much higher I need the spring to be. Or is it close enough that it won't matter?

  10. FFS, sorry guys wasted your time. Just called him and he took it to a mechanic today who adjusted the float level and fitted vacuum to the vacuum advance unit. The vacuum line had been put in the wrong place. I thought my fault but was pretty carefull about putting them back where they came from and he said it's always had a stuttering issue so suspect that lines been wrong for quite awhile. Aparently it's running sweet now.

  11. Ok shit sorry should have paid more attention. The engine was poorly maintained ie the ignition was fucked, carb needed a rekit etc. The actual compression seems fine starts first pop without the choke etc. The float level (looking through the glass) does look low, maybe 3-4mm up from bottom of sight glass, any idea where should be? All he's told me is its stalls in first which I know isn't enough. I will get more info. Be back in a few mins.

  12. I have a mate with a run down 3y powered yn57. The engine seems to be in fairly good condition internally however the ignition system has had to be completely over hauled and the carb has been freshened up. ANYWAY my friend is determined that the float level is too low. I know little about tuning carbs and thought i would ask on here. It is a nikki nk2 carb. its creating a stalling issue in first gear. I'm suspecting it may be a failing fuel pump or clogged filter aswell as a poorely tuned carb.

    Could someone please give me some advise on what to do.

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