bigmatt4

the last one i bought cost me bout $270 was 5 or 6 years ago they not cheep but blow like a hurricane will see if i can find out who sells them. i scored mine from a farm refrigeration guy

http://www.autoair.co.nz/shop/Shop+By+p ... F3533.html

best cooling fans i have found are TRIPAC band used them in speedway way more sturdy and heaps of airflow from what iv learnt the best most powerful fans are directional curved blade non reverslble ones

http://www.tripacintl.com/Forward_Skew_ ... L12R9.html

you get good ones and bad one good are good and bad are just rubbish they have issues with torque on demand 4x4 control unit and from what ive experenced dont get the v6 on the wiring is shoddy they short out under the intake manifold and the inner guard causing all sorts of issues

i have just scored a hilux diff head with what looks to be a spartan diff locker in it anyone had any experience on the driveabilty of these diffs on the road want the car to be fun to drive but not dangerous (missus will drive it too). build has slowed down now for a while due to funds got the brake system almost complete.

Driveshaft getting made at the moment also on the look for some 2litre capri struts decided the v6 struts will be too much hassle for future brake upgrade.

parts list is getting shorter though just need

2litre capri struts

new brake hoses

driveshaft hoop

rear caliper mounts

axles modified for escort stud pattern

hydraulic release bearing

paint and lots of reassembling to do so wont be xmas this year but surely next fingers crossed

YAY just a jammed starter motor! Thank you for all your help guys!

yay one point 4 me

i have found starter motors to jam on the ring gear if the bushes are stuffed try turning the motor over backwards by hand to release starter from ring gear or pop the starter out and check to see the pinion returns back

check out www.club4ag.com they have all the ecu pinouts for all the 4age engines makes things a bit easyer

spigot bush is different size too from what i can remember throttle linkage needs to be modified

got the new exhaust all tacked up nice and high should get no grounding over judderbars used a multi bend pipe with 180 a 90 and 2 45deg bends and 1.5 m 2" pipe came out mint very pleased will paint it up wih high jeat paint to help prevent rusting

dummy block and gearbox are back in had to re make the engine mounts wasnt quite happy with engine position all perfect now . sump has had its test fit and i ready to finish up the welding on it . brake lines and dummy driveshaft will be next weeks job. oh the joys of building cars

can you tell me wot jets you are running? from what i can see in the photo the rear carb is been choked with the air filters squashed against the battery. Has the distributor been re curved? wot distributor does it have bosch or motorcraft. with a bosch distributor i run it about 10 deg static motorcraft about 8 deg static. 0.025" points gap 0.025 plug gap and no vacume advance jets to start with

36mm chokes

7772.6 or 7772.5 Emulsion tubes

145 Main jet

190 Air corrector

idle jet size 50/55

idle air jet holder size 7850.2

i would start tuning with a 45 idle jet to prevent plug fouling ideal idle mixture should be between 1.5 and 2.5 turns out.

(MAKE SURE THE CARBS ARE BALANCED FLOATS ARE SET AND TIMING IS CORRECT BEFORE ANY JET CHANGES ) You will have trouble otherwise.

Are you running electric fuel pump or standard mechanical? if electric you must not exceed 3.5 psi or they will flood and leak fuel.

basics for jetting are idle jet works from roughly idle to 1700 rpm main from 1700 to 3500 rpm airs from 3500 rpm up give or take. besy way is to get idle right then road tune to 3500rpm using light throttle by checking sparkplug colour every 1000rpm ( hot shutdowns) it should be biscut brown then when thats right do some full throttle runs checking plug color dont idle between tests plugs can change color very quickly. it all takes time but it is possible good way to learn your carbs too. note generally if it surges and backfires out the carb its lean and if it boggs and bacfires out exhaust its rich

massive hilux axle wont break that sucker

few more things sorted ive completed my pedal box fits mint. just needs pulling to bits again for blasting and painting. got the dummyblock and box back in the shell doing the final adjustment of the winged sump before the final weld. also about to start my new exhaust system get it up nice and high no scrapages bought one of those multi bend pipes with a 180deg 90 deg and 2 45 deg bends recon i can do a better job than the local exhaust shop.

anyone know where to buy driveshaft tube? finding it hard to get.

try this link its got a few escort porting basics where to cut and where not to few ideas anyways

http://performanceforums.com/forums/sho ... flow-(Kent)-alloy-head/page2

ive done my own porting but still cant beat professional porting with a flow bench depends on how much power your after and how much you have to spend my head alone cost me $1100 to get done with flow bench 10 years ago. and he also supplied the correct cam for the job was done by kevin ban when he lived in tauranga before he owned kefords.

from wot ive been reading lately for cert laws you can fit an escort with a 1100 1300 1600 cc engine. as long as you use factory bolt in parts as the escort came with the same factory option with no differences to brakes or suspension. but if you modify engine mounts gearbox mounts cert will be required.

I would use the kent over the pinto any way they go good with the right work and are half the weight of a pinto.

rn25 diff fitted direct bolt in

easy

didnt believe it no mods at all need to get pcd changed to 4x108 but no biggie

also got van primed this weekend looks good finally seeing progress

im in matamata how can i help dont think you have offended me

im keen too got the mk1 back on the road blow some cobwebs out of it

i wouldnt blast the whole van just blast lower panels most common place for rust is A pillar, firewall, sills, front floor pans, front of guards, lower front guards, lower rear quarters i also found rust at rear of rear inner guards normally if i find an escort without rust in floor pans or firewall it is a goodie they are the first to go floor pans are easy to get from palmside in chch about $75 per side they fit nice

another busy week...end got the front panel all sorted (bit of technical moulding compound) made a new inner guard panel and repaired the rust in the bottom corner test fitted the bonnet and doors got all to line up pretty good

almost ready for a complete coat of primer to start the (technical moulding compound process ) bogging:)

sorry one more shot of engine in car

more room around that engine than the crossflow with sidedrafts

cheers bro is gonna be a long project starting to see the end

undersealing done

another busy day had the entire underfloor sandblasted and primed ready for new coat of underseal

looks good found very little rust few pinholes nothin major at all stoked as

finished all rust repairs yay 1 rust free escort van have now given the underside a new coat of underseal looks fab. also finished cleaning and painting front crossmember and suspension bits fitting all new nolathane bushes . also have a hilux diff on the way from an rn25 hilux which means no shortening needed yay again i can almost smell the rubber burning

another busy weekend more rust removed found more

no cortina pinto extractors will not fit escort they foul the steering shaft escort generally have 4-2-1 extractor cortina normally have 4-1