bigmatt4

use 1000 to polish when it was close be aware it dosnt take much to sand  like 5 seconds at a time is all i done follow that terry hunt guide it is almost spot on to wot i understood

just worked the whole area between 6 and 10 i use 240 grit wet an dry sand paper emery takes off too much at a time

check all your earths sure to be the problem

yea  i done it the way he said my problem was leaning up top too fluked it with the third run my ratios were 14.7 idle 14.2 cruse up to about 80km/h in top then started leaning out to about 16.3 WOT from 100km/h up.

managed to get 12.3 at WOT with his method has a cruse ratio 100kmh at 14.6 very light throttle spikes down to 11.9 if you snap the throttle very briefly i only played with station 6 to 10 to achieve this

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/tech/picsb/pics.htm

i have just finished tuning a mini with a hif 44 have a look at these sites they helped me heaps ive got a 1360 fitted with a hif44 and a self modified bbw needle i used a innovate oxy sensor and got the needle perfect in about 3 hours of sanding fittng and testing

http://www.sw-em.com/su%20needle%20dimensions.JPG

also bdl is the most common hif 44 needle 

pan pacific or repco

put a ht lead between the coil and the plug then put a timing light on the lead

does it run on 4 cylinders when it starts? have you checked the float levels and is your firing order correct. just trying to sort the basics first normally a backfire out the carb is a lean thing have you checked for vacume leaks split brake booster or pcv valve hose. How did your issue start did it just happen or gradually get worse over time.

wind mixture screw all the way in wind out 2 1/2 turnes  warm engine up get it to idle then wind the mixture screw in slowley  till it starts to stumble then wind out 3/4 of a turn 

hey with that starter position can you stand the solenoid strait up by the cyl head coz i think you will have hot starting issues being that close to the exhaust  fitted one the other day that did 

hey man just out of curiosty what jets and tubes are you running on those carbs so i have a starting point for mine

maybe a silly question but i have had that problem with webbers and found that the float was actually a sink it had a pinhole in it and was full of fuel causing it to not float correctly just a thought

another easy way is to put a diesel alternator on it with a vacume pump run an oil feed and dump pipe to pump and your good to go constant vacume

sounds like that could be an issue ive also seen corrosion on the batt post to the rectifier inside the alt which gives the same symptoms easy wat to check this is run the car for a while with lights on ect and see if the alt post gets hot otherwise courier the alt to me and i can fix it after all that is my trade

i would be checking for a voltage drop is that voltage at the alternator or the battery ?

also slipping fanbelt which im sure you would have checked an alternator should charge full out at 14.6v.

now the sense wire should be connected to the fuse box or directly to the battery not to the back of the alternator it works by detecting voltage drop in the cables so if you have 0.5v voltage drop in the alternator lead the alternator will put out more voltage to achieve 14.6v at that point so it may read 15.1 volt at the alternator.

looms are different enough not to bother modifying ie injector plugs distributor map sensor instead of AFM no tvis some have injector resistors better off with a smallport loom and ecu. yes the blocks have the same mounting points. 16v head will fit on 20v block late model 100kw smallports have the 7 rib block larger journals and pins also oil squirters in the block for the pistons pretty much a 4agze without the pistons of charger so i would go smallport.

another thought i had one of these at work with the same code it was a qr25dd direct injection pulled all the plugs out and found 2 cylinders to be running rich it had cylinder missfire and o2 sensor codes it turned out to be leaking injectors very commin fault had to replace the injectors and rail not cheep though $2500 you cant buy injectors on there own. also on other vehicles like isuzu mu and wizard v6 and a few others have one different coil on cylinder one they look identical bar 1 number in part no and iff it is in the wrong place it will throw codes

i used a cortina gearbox crossmember and welded plates to the inside of the floor worked sweet and passed certs as i have a pinto box behind my crossflow also my van didint have a larger tunnel so i think tunnel massage will be your best plan i used a 1600 pinto box with the alloy top little bit smaller at the top of the box less bashing and better ratios closer between 1st and 2nd but you will require a 1600 flywheel and clutch to use one

escort box will work but they are very weak and the clutch plate is different smaller spline and diameter. Using the 2litre cortina box you will need to massage the gearbox tunnel slightly to make it fit and build a new gearbox crossmember as the gearbox is about 2 1/2 inches or so longer 70mm from memory.

Fuel ines will need to change sides as well as coil wiring. Standard cortina radiator will fit use factory escort engine mounts and be sure it has the right sump to clear the crossmember there are about 3 different ones.

I would go for a single piece driveshaft as you will need to fit a driveshaft hoop for cert and if it is 2 piece you will need 2 hoops. you will also need a longer throttle cable .

As for suspension does it have disc brakes at front or drum if drum i would fit mk2 front struts and steering rack you will need to change the brake hoses to suit as they have different threads and fit with king springs and gas shocks and personally if you are going to do that fit a full nolathane kit makes them drive like new..

http://www.qualitytools.co.nz/wayco-floor-jack-p-1885.html

i got one of these had for more than 10 years dosnt creep nice and sturdy good quality

yep ill do it is this the one that needs to go south coz im the one with the jetski and pinto block

commin north

not likely unless it has shorted to earth as current flows through the gauge not to the gauge.

Check that it hasnt blown open circut and your generator / alternator is charging the battery as the charging current runs from the generator through the ammeter to the battery

if money was no object this is the guy i would use he builds insane horsepower http://www.nelsonracingengines.com 1600hp twin turbo $52000 US

i had some made by the bolt holder in matamata for an adaptor plate to a 4age to vw bus box a few years back they are 12x 1.25 cost me about $12 each from memory think they were a larger countersunk screw machined down and re threaded

try a p12 primera sparkplug with a qr25dd in it $87 each cost fuckn expensive tune up especially with a common fault of leaking injectors at a cost of $2500 for a fuel rail