bigmatt4

change injector 2 and 3 plug over as the silvertop  is bank fired no 1 & 4 fire together and 2&3 fire together  so if it shifts to cylinder 3 the problem is a broken wire between cyl 2 and 3 if not check compression

i have only 25thou clearance between the flywheel and the bellhousing is that enough you recon flywheel shouldnt grow should it

So een a while got my release bearing sorted had to grind out my bellhousing to fit my flywheel inside have put new seals and a shifter bushes in the gearbox happy with my drive belt arangment also. Constructed a new sump version 3.1 and am having it welded up at the moment will get some photos up of that when i get it back. Have also scored and oil cooler and remote filter kit so my sump and cooler should hold around 5 to 5.5 litres of oil (better than the standard 3.75 litres they hold standard. also have finished my 4k to 4age distributor mod hopoefully have the engine dooorting in a few weeks (owned for nearly 10 years never had it running) fingers crossed its a goodie.

185 60 13 6.5 inch fron 7 inch rear

Check the main fuse link wire at the battery(or solenoid) to feed the whole car also check the alternator plug. my mk1 has the batttery feed on one terminal and the rest of the car on the other (if it has a lucas alternator) so if you unplug the alternator the whole car is dead also check that the plug on the bottom of the main fusebox hasnt fallen off (above the glovebox passsenger side)

i have done a bit of resarch into this and have found people have been sucessful on this with only a single carb and no engine mods as the timing control is vacume sensed so if you are running sidedrafts or cams the vacume will be too unstable for an acurate reading causng the timing to jump all around the show better off with aftermarket ecu i would say

heater pipes i would say it looks to have fwd top water neck and rwd waterpump with a modified thermostat bypass hose on it

http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/hilux/repair2/html/frame_rm0000010ms007x.html

hey bro word of caution those back side panels will need reinforcing with speakers in them both my anglias had them speakers in them and they fell to bits from the weight glue a sheet of that bendy ply to the back of them around the speaker area so they last coz they are a bit hard to replace these days.

can probly help yo out with the .1 idle jet holders only found 3x .45 pump jets  all the other jets are too small sorry but i do have a full set of jet drills from 1 mm to 2.5 mm  you can borrow and some donor jets to solder and re drill

ive got heaps of weber and dellorto jets what are you after

check also cam angle sensor just done one last week for a customer just run a meter over it and check it is not open circut

make sure the butterfly screws havnt come loose as they can shift around in the shafts causing them to jam if so loosen them off but dont remove the screws and snap open and close the throttle a few times with the idle screws backed off the butterflys should re seat then re tighten the screws

Use a nissan pulsar n13 distrubutor 1 hour on the lathe fits mint under manifold had mine in for ten years never had the cap off timing hasnt shifted a degree whole job about $250 2nd hand dissy new cap and rotor.I have fitted 5 or more to 1600s over the years never had an issue.

http://www.nissanclub.cz/graphics/owners/full/4544_567_sunkmotor.jpg

one of these dizzys

14.7 volts is completely normal 99% of new cars regulate at that some at 14.9 try leaving your engine running for 5 minutes or so to let the battery stablize and the voltage should drop to about 14.5 turn on the headlights wipers and stuff and it should maintain that voltage.

Calcium batteries require a minimum of 14.6 volts to charge and if they are flattend dead dead flat they need to go on a calcium pulse charger to recharge to 100% oterwise they only recharge to about 60% of there full potential.

The throttle body that I am using is from an Altezza beams engine, which normally runs the electronic throttle body.

 

I've disabled that so it's just completely actuated by the cable. But on account of the wizard magic that's normally in the throttle body housing, the TPS needs to be on the other side so it rotates in the opposite direction to usual.

 

The FWD beams motor throttle body (to suit my ECU) is a little bit smaller and wont bolt to my plenum, and I cant swap the TPS over as it rotates in the opposite direction. (As per every other Toyota TPS that I've found...)

 

TRY A 1UZFE TRACTION CONTROL TPS AS THEY RUN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO 4AGE AND 3SGE TPS HAVE USED ONE ON A 2JZ WITH A 90MM THROTTLE BODY WORKS MINT

I used plastic fuel line from an old mk4 cortina for reservoir to master lines with banjo fittings cylinder end hose clamped at reservoir end found euro cars like alfas and stuff have single reservoir with three outlet hoses for front rear clutch easy mounting too good thing bout the plastic fuel line is that you can mould it with a heat gun and cool with water to hold there shape

just wondering how to attach my seat mounts to the tunnel and sill having heard you cant weld them in how can i attach them as you cant get inside the sill to fit doubler plates 

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tunnel fabrication from and auto sparky 

as she sits as of few weeks ago

Ok long time no update. been getting back into escort lately plans have changed ever so slightly i have sold my t50 gearbox setup and have up graded to w55 with nightparts bellhousing and hydraulic release bearing  decides the t50 wouldnt be able to handle the punishment this car will likely see.

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also have found a 225mm 4agze flywheel with 2750 lb pressure plate and puck clutch so should be no weak points in the driveline.

last few weekends i have been doing my gearbox tunnel bit harder than they look aye this is what i have acomplished so far 

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 still only pop rivets and tin at the mo but will get it to fit real nice before i weld it in  all i have done is cut out the original tunnel lifted it 1 1/2 inches shifted it back 4 inches and given it a bit of a stretch folded up the floor pans so i can plug weld the whole thing back in and built a new front half of the tunnel. should be able to get the box out without removing the engine too will be a help and i dont think it looks too chopped like some i have seen

350 holley with an adaptor plate simple as 

classic cover insurance i have used them for the past 12 years for my escort full cover at agreed value $180 a year but it must be garaged and less than 5000ks a year never been had on the 5000ks thing coz very rarely it does over that in one year but give them a call

http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/circular-connectors/industrial-automation-circular-connectors/?applied-dimensions=4294868378&esid=cl_4294967294,cl_4294959752,cl_4294958762,cl_4294957970,cl_4294960342,cl_4294958851&m=1

try these guys i use them all the time race cars and stuff pricey but worth it

use the lucas type one with side entry cap you dont need vaccum advance on a modified engine but it will need to be curved you will want the distributor to get max advance of 36deg by 3000-3500 rpm. i have mine set up to have 12 deg total distributor advance  (24deg eng) by 3000 rpm and run 12 deg static timing to acheive 36 deg works well with no detination