Italia

Are the injectors firing? If they are then it means the ecu is getting the trigger signals from the distributer.
I saw one wiring diagram where IGF has a pull up to 5V, are you able to measure what the voltage is at IGF, with nothing else connected to that input on the ecu?

PIM is the map sensor, and VCC is 5v.

Toyota IGT is typically a 5V signal, 0v 5V transition begins charging the coil then spark occurs when it transitions from 5v to 0v.

I am not 100% sure the IGT on the 1gge ecu is 5v, but if it is 5V, it would almost be impossible that if that IGT output had failed it would default to 12v.

Is there another 5V output pin on the ecu you can test to confirm its 5V out?

Have you attached all the grounds to the ecu? There may be a pull down resistor that's floating at 12v if the ground isn't connected, but seems unlikely.

Have you double checked you have the right pin for IGT and confirmed the pinout you are using is the correct one for your ecu? Are you able to post up the pinout/wiring diagrams you do have?
 

Thanks for the quick reply guys,

Suspected that would be the case, just trying to avoid getting stuck in the loop of waiting till the next modification before getting cert and having a car that takes forever to be road legal.

Just a confusing rule I guess? As changing from stock wheels to aftermarket wheels doesn't require a cert, but changing them once certified requires a re-cert.

On 13/12/2018 at 12:27, cletus said:

If it has dumb wheels when it gets certified, cert plate will state 'dumb wheels fr+r'

 

 

Have to cover all mods present on the vehicle at time of inspection 

Hi Cletus, I am looking to get a car certified soon for an engine/gbox swap and adjustable height suspension. If I get the car certified with the stock wheels on it, then put wider wheels on the car later on, will there be a problem getting a WOF?

Cool Project!

Saw this video a while back, might be interesting if you haven't already seen it.

Sorry,the pedal has the full travel as far as you push it down 6 or 7 inchs until it hits the floor/ but the clutch only engages within one inch of that total travel if that make sense? For example most clutchs once the clutch starts to bite until the point where it's fully engaged is a couple of inchs.this one how ever you bring it up slowly with some revs and instead of it slowly engaging its 3 inchs of nothing then BAMN it's on fully.I hope that makes sense,I am pretty crap at describing things!

As Mof said, if the enagement is in the middle of the travel, then lengthening the master won't help.

The clutch in mine feels like any eco box, so a normal clutch feel is definitely possible

No write up,

I took the master out and got a longish bolt with the same thread/pitch and cut the head off the bolt

cut the master rod down so the join would be away from where I would be adjusting,

and welded on the bolt to give about 30mm extra, but you could probably use a threaded sleeve with a nut on either side.

A bit hory, but didn't cost me anything to do.

The clutch blew up in my SC aw11 not long after I got it.

I replaced it with an exedy tuff clutch/plate kit, I also replaced the clutch master and slave at the same time.

After that the clutch would engage/disengage very close to the floor, which didn't give much feel/modulation.

I don't know if that's the exact same problem you are having. 

I adjusted the clutch at the pedal to its maximum extension and that helped somewhat,

I am not sure if it was the repco replacement clutch master or if the standard one is the same length,

but I had to cut and extend the adjustment rod to get the disengagement point in a comfortable place.

After doing that the travel and variability was pretty decent.

I remember at the time reading on forums that you can get an extended pin from 'twos r us' to go in the slave cylinder that supposedly helped with the narrow engagement/disengagement range

I'm interested, and so is my dad.

Rwd and 4wd car.