kseries.rookie

Ah, shit sorry I should o mentioned - it's the tail lights. Which are plastic so I think steel wool would scratch it up

I'll give thinners a jam and see how I get on. It appears to be 2k, but could be wrong.

Razor blade would work. but could catch on the plastic and cause more damage - but thanks tho

Good evening all,

The previous owner of what is now my car has done a sweet driveway-spec paint job.

It's fairly hideously excecuted/prepped but it will do for now. In the mean time I want to tidy up a few things here and there, so I want to clean the over spray on the lights.

I tried Brakleen, elbow grease and a rag - this did eventually work after a good 20-30 seconds of rubbing in the same spot. What I asking is if there is anything else that would get rid of it all a little easier?

I tried meth spirits, this also didn't really work.

I could give thinners a go?

But yeah - has anyone else had any success with another product?

Cheers, looking forward to the response

The old man came on down to be my "consultant" so he did lead me to the right direction a couple of times but all the hard yack was done by myself .

It's going to be a really interesting time putting the 5 speed in, with literally a millimetre either side to work with!

Also took the starter motor apart, gave it a really good clean - brought the copper back from black to copper and going to replace the brushes.

Thanks again for the advice.

Very nice KP dude.

I've always been a fan of the sr20de KP's but always been too afraid to attempt the conversion myself

Great work man, looking forward to seeing what you bring to the table in the future!

^ I probably missed a few steps

Success!

I basically did it how you guys said to:

- Take off battery lead

- Take out starter motor

- Undo clutch cable from fork

- Undo all the electronics

- Cracked all the nuts around the gearbox

- Cracked the nuts on the mount

- Took drive shaft out

- Took all gearbox bolts

- Took the weight off the mount

- Undo mount bolts

and slide/jiggle gearbox back.

It was pretty tight getting out, I was hitting the break lines on the left side, and the starter motor housing was hitting on the right side so it was a case of finding a happy medium with it and pulling out.

From start to finish it took an hour, with no damaged bolts or anything.

Thanks heaps for all the advice! I couldn't of done it without you guys .

Next mission is to take out the K50 from my other wagon and put it into this one!

Thanks again lads

Wow I was suprised he didn't get flamed with "WHY BUY FAKE KNOCK OFF HEAVY PEICES OF SHIZZ" haha.

There are always cheapish ones that pop up on trademe, just keep an eye out bud

yeah as just above.

remove battery lead as it is live.

its best to remove oil completely first as it will always make a mess, so drain it all first and then go and remove shifter while thats draining.

also remember to remove the clutch cable off the fork. ( off memory they are cable type not hydraulic ??? )

i find it easier to loosen mount bolts and remove half and then take all but 2 bolts that join the bellhousing to the motor. this means the box is still supported by the gearbox mount and some bolts are holding it onto the locating dowels on the block.

use a jack to support the box and engine while u remove the rear mount bolts and it will allow the box to come down on an angle.

depending on how strong you are, ( i still find it easier to remove a box by hand, not with a jack. even on larger w series boxes that are much heavier. ) slowly remove the last bolts holding it to the block, it SHOULDNT fall off as it will be sitting on the dowels that locate the bellhousing to the block.

once they are out, u will have to give the box a jiggle, sometimes quite firmly. but be careful as asometime when they come off it can happen quickly so dont drop it.

if its firm u can use the jack to lift it up a bit and jiggle so it helps come off the dowels straight. ( if using the jack it can really be a 2 person job though ).

just remember as soon as it come off the dowels the input shaft will have come out of the spigot bearing and it will fall onto the clutch and pressure plate so you need to be bit careful, and pull the box towrds the diff so it comes out of the clutch area fully before u try to lift it down.

most of the stuff i have said, you will find out doing the job, but this way hopefully now you are a bit more aware beforehand. its not a difficult job at all. just take ya time and use a bit of thought and you will be fine.

let us know how u got on!

Ah sweet, I wouldn't of thought to take off the battery lead either

Yeah i'll let you guys know how I get on.

I will be eventually taking the 5 speed out of my coupe wagon, and putting that into the 4 door as well so it's all in good practise

Awesome - Thanks for all the advice guys

Fits in perfect with the name that my workshops been dubbed with: ChurrBro Engineering

On a side note there man, what was the reason for doing that? I've got a 5 speed gear box and a loom too now for it - Does it not have the wires going down to the gear box? Or were you after a full seick custom reverse light set up

I'm no mechanic, and it's been a while since I did one, so there will likely be steps missing. Also, this is not likely the best method but was how I did it the first time.

I removed the drive shaft from the diff end, and pulled it out of the gearbox. I then discovered that the oil pisses out of the gearbox at this point. So have the oil pan handy and let the oil drain from the tail end of the gearbox.

I'm pretty sure I then undid all the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine. Carefully check right around the area where it bolts to the engine. If there is any dirt / grease on it, there may be a bolt hidden there. Make sure the speedo cable is already removed along with any wiring that may be present.

The box / engine shouldn't move.

Then I think I would have put a jack under the back section of the engine near the gearbox. Jack it up ever so slightly to take some weight off the gearbox mount.

Then unbolt the gearbox mount from the bottom of the car.

Then gearbox may or not not fall out at this point, so just do things slowly and carefully. If nothing falls out, then that's good. Slowly lower the jack. It should (bad memory here) when lowered, tilt backwards which will lower the gearbox to a point where you can slide it off the engine. You will just have to lower the jack enough so the top of the gearbox housing will clear the firewall when it's taken off the engine. The shaft on the gearbox might be something like 100-150mm long, so allow for that much space before trying to slide if off. With the engine supported, it should slide off easy enough. The gearboxes aren't THAT heavy from memory. So it shouldn't be too hard to do by yourself. Safety first though, getting a hand for the last step could be handy. You'll just have to catch it.

I may have missed something crucial, but someone will point that out.

Tools needed at a guess:

Axle stands to hold the front end up - safety first, wheels sitting under sills for extra safety points. Probably not required in less earthquake prone areas.

Oil pan

A few spanners somewhere in the 14-17mm range for getting it unbolted from engine

1/2" socket set with similar sized sockets, to drop the gearbox mount from the car

Can't really think of much else.

Awesome dude, thanks for that . I appreciate the time you took to write it

i normally remove the centre console or surrounding and remove the shifter. 1 less thing to get broken or bent. or get stuck in the hole making ya swear.

Centre consol is already out so thats easier . Do you think it would be easier all together to just take the shifter off in the beginning?

i wrote a giant post while on the toilet earlier and lost reception and lost the post

Only things to add;

circlip pliers for removal of gear shifter

ratchet spanner for a few of the bolts of the gearbox that bolt it to the motor will be your best friend!

remove starter, but that should be obvious

you can leave the gearbox end of the driveshaft in to not have to drain the oil out, but it's a lot of cunting around moving the gearbox afterwards with a driveshaft hanging off the end.

Bahahahahah they call that "Poogle'ing" aparantly

Thanks dude. Ah I didn't think I would need to take off the starter so thanks for that (Ultra noob thing to say, but like I said - First time doing it!)

My starter is a little sticky, so might be a good chance to redo the bushes etc while I am there for the 5 speed.

Does anyone have a tutorial on reconditioning/tidying/rebuilding/freshnin' up a starter motor??

Put something under the gbox to catch it incase it does drop.

Rags - if its your parents driveway/garage especially

First time might take a few hours especially if going slowly. Double this if you have beer. Double it again if you have a mrs.

Are you able to get yourself a Haynes manual? Normally the removal/refitting procedures in there are a handy reference

Ahh it'l be in my garage at home, but the old man lives 10 minutes up the road. A mate of mine was donig a tip run and there was about 3 beds worth of sheets.. So I grabbed em' - I knew they would come in handy!

I don't have a Haynes manual for this year of Corolla - Only for the 1988 FWD Corolla.. I might keep an eye out for one on trademe. Thanks mate.

make sure you have taken off all wiring and speedo cables etc. then make sure again.

probably not too many on a ke70 but still just checking for anything else that might be hung up, handbrake cables or other lines etc.

Well, funny you should say that.. with regards to the wireing. It doesn't have the reverse wires set up to the gear box - there is a little switch under the dash that has a peice of string (yes, I kid you not.. a peice of string) that when the gear stick goes into the reverse position, it puts on the reverse lights! I didn't fab this work myself, but great bit of kiwi enginuity right there. I may have a picture somewhere, i'll upload later for giggles. Actually... I think it was someone on OS that did it! It's gone through a couple of you'z fullas aparantly.

Thanks a plenty for the advice guys! If there is anything else - let me know!

Morning guys,

I am planning on taking out the 4 speed gearbox from my Toyota Corolla (Ke70) this weekend. I haven’t taken out a gearbox before, so it’s all a learning experience.

What I am basically wondering is if you guys have any tips/hints/advice/tricks of the trade from your experience. At a quick glance is looks like it’ll be fairly simple – unbolt take the tail shaft, undo bolts attaching the g/box to the engine, and also the gear box mount. What is the best way to attack it with regards to the order of dismantling? Leave the g/box mount there until the end or take that off first?

What are some of the things I will need?

Ratchet/sockets/spanners/CRC for the 30 year old bolts/oil pan for catching gearbox oil?

I have a bloke who is interested in taking it off my hands after I take it out so I want to keep it in tact/not break anything so I plan to take my time. If worse comes to worse I can call up the old boy who is an automotive engineer.

Soo ah yeah, apologise for the noob queston – I did do a search but I may have had a man look.

As always, I appreciate the advice.

Cheers!

I drive an automatic one everyday from Kapiti to Wellington. It happily sits on 100 km's and for a little wee buzzer it gets up to 140 no sweat.

That's a bit harsh there beaver.

just standing up for the guy who's being picked on by a bunch of "OSGC's". Hope/expect people to do the same for me.

Well said.

Yeah I wasn't a fan at first, but it's grown on me. I wouldn't mind putting a nice little duckbill spoiler on there tho.

Yeah the EG is one of the nicest Honda's i've ever seen. I don't know the exact specs but it's verrry well modified. He uses it as a daily driver too! Crazy cat. I'm based in the lower north island, we have our meets on the last Wednesday of every month. If you're ever around these ways you should come along. This the facebook group - https://www.facebook.com/ABunchOfGuysWithCars

Nice HR32 Dave. It's nice to see another level headed Skyline owner and especially one that hasn't been butchered by some "fully sick Rota Gridz G!".

I've also got a HR32 as a daily.

It's 20de 230,000 kms going strong, brought it at 180,000. Hicas model, automatic gearbox but has an RB20det gearbox in place of the de.

The few things that have been done is it's lowered on Jamex Lows, 17" TSW VX1 (Oh yeee bringing back the 90's!), aftermarket stereo and removed spoiler.

Such a stirdy car to drive, comfortable and economical (depending how it's driven of course)

Heres a picture of it parked up next my mate Jonos Skunk2 certified Civic (gooooorgus car!) at one of my meets that we organise

Are you going to stick with the N/A or move up to a turbo one day?

It was never one hold, had just expired for 12 months

Yeah, thought so.. Like I said, I take full responsibility. I was simply asking the questions

*cries*..

It's a damn shame, I should of just placed it on hold. Is it a possibility that I could say "The vehicle has only been in my position for 7 months, so I should be responsible for those 7 months, not the 12 where the previous owner had it?"

Ah fuck, I should of just chucked it on hold when I got it.

Righto guys, firstly I would like to take it on the chin. Yes this is purely 100% my fault.

I could write about the excuses like, i've been busy, my address has changed so I didnt get the letters and other real reasons but noone wants to hear about.

I bought the car with the rego out for 5 months - I changed into my name, and meant to put it on hold but.. excuses excused blah blah.

It's now 7 months down the track.. and I've recieved a letter explaining that my car registration has lapsed and is now de-registered.

I understand that if the rego is out for 12 months they de register the car (I was under the impression it was 24 but hey).

I also would of thought that because it's only been in my name for 7 months, that would effectivley "reset" the time? I'm running of the logic of that because the rego had expired (those 5 months) when it was in his name, once I put it into my name he would of been stung with those 5 months of back pay.

I don't want hate because like I said before, it's 100% my fault and I take it on the chin..

BUT - Is there anything I can do about this? Has anyone had a similar experience?

I don't want to go down the path of re-vinning, and it's not worth running the risk of "plates and tagging" the car (and i'm not that sort of person)

Please advise!

Hey dude, would you be keen to do a little bit of a photoshoot? I mean, it's win win for you but also means I can get some practise in for my photography . Let me know dude, 0276192627

Oh man, I just want more!! Where abouts in the country are you?

So hot! I wana see more photos!!

Hey buddy. What are those strip discs that you used to take back the paint? Looking good man, its going to be awesome once its done mate

Hahaha that ke70 matty black wagon on titans was my friends. I took that photo, at my old house! Funny.