S124AB

@PopwillThis link to Ausrotary has a number of RX-3 examples.

If yours is an NZ new 10A RX3, it should be the first yellow pic, which has the door lock style boot lock cover.

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=83283

Super Deluxe badges on boot left side and C pillar.

RX-3 badge in front of rear panel reflectors and triangle RE grill badge.

Future value is assisted by demand (and desire).

Look at the cars younger guys are keen on.  

I do see that in rotaries, Jap high performance, some Euros, but I don't see that many foaming over US tanks, or Aus built cars, with the exception of a few recent (20 years or less) models most commonly associated with Aus Touring cars.

12 hours ago, oldrx7 said:

Do you know if that's the nz owner selling it over there or if someone bought it off the nz owner to re-sell in aus?

Importing cars to Aus is a minefield, one needs an import permit for the vehicle before it's even shipped.  So he'll need to have an owner lined up and paid for to get that done.  I'd say gen RX-3's are selling more in Aus than NZ, bigger market and more people with money for toys.

Hard to get anything decent there that's genuine for under $100k, and that car doesn't look like a minter...

Did mine some years ago and it was around $1500 from memory, which included epoxy prime painted immediately afterwards.

Done by Automotive Blasting in Pukekohe who know their stuff.

https://www.facebook.com/Automotiveblasting/

However, if it's a Jap car or not real thick steel, don't blast roof, doors, bonnet or boot more than 75 mm from the edge, as the heat and pressure from blasting will warp panels and stretch the steel.

Double skin, door, bonnet, boot edges, pillars, interior, underneath etc no problem, but flat or large panel areas best done with orbital sander.

If you were a dealer (RMVT) as I am, you would be up for the full cost of repairs on this.  Even as sale of a trade in, I would have to declare all faults to a new customer, and get hung out to dry when anything else goes wrong.  Hence the reason we bowl most old shit to PAP as soon as possible.

While private sellers can weasel their way out of the obligations a dealer would have to pay for, I think you have a moral responsibility to come to some arrangement with this guy.

The fact you noticed a higher than normal temp reading a few weeks ago should have sent alarm bells ringing, as most vehicles for the last 40+ years have pretty fixed temp needle positions and if they change for some reason, it's indicating either a dying thermostat or something else more serious.

You said you flushed out some rust which indicates that it hasn't had the correct antifreeze in there for....years.  The rust has probably blocked a few coolant galleries or the radiator and possibly may have already had a crook head gasket when you sold it.  

If it happened a few months later, then you wouldn't have to worry, but with it occurring on the way home from collection then an act of good faith on your part is probably warranted.

45 minutes ago, dabuzz said:

Was 1 kit enough to fo your whole car, floors, inside doors etc? I(I just want to basically reapply where it was factory  on rx2 + is it super sticky, not gonna lift?

It sticks like shit to a blanket, but secret is to warm each piece with a heat gun, use thick cotton gloves,( the white ones with black dimples in gardening section at Mitre 10) and a 40-50 mm wide paint roller to roll down, push out bubbles etc.

Also pays to clean surface with wax and grease remover, to remove any stuff that may affect the stick.

I've done interior roof, firewall, floor, parcel shelf and panel behind rear seat.  Have a couple of sheets left and will probably put some in the front doors as anti-vibration.

Also use some underlay under the carpet, Para Rubber have some neoprene foam underlay with foil backing.  I put it in a van and made a big difference.

For all that I think I've used three boxes with nine sheets in each.  You use more if you are covering everything, and there's quite a bit of overlapping around the bends, so quite a few areas end up with two layers.

Almost impossible to use a whole sheet at once, so you have to cut it into shapes with a Stanley knife and work in small sections.  Once it touches the surface, you're sort of fucked if you need to reposition.

I got mine  from Mongoose in View Rd, Glenfield.

https://www.mongoose.co.nz/entertainment/q-mat-sound-deadening/

Duane Bicknell at Bicknell Autosport Engineering in Highbrook has just done some work on my front struts.

They are the now the suspension repairer/builder for Stocks. 09-270 7218

The customs GST charges should be calculated on the landed cost (including freight) converted to NZD.

Depending on how it arrives, there maybe more charges.

If it's arriving by airfreight as a door to door courier consignment, then shouldn't be additional charges.

However, if coming via a shipping container as an LCL consignment (less than container load), there maybe unpacking, port, clearance  fees and a host of other charges added on. 

22 hours ago, Sambo said:

Does anyone know what grade of leather is usually used on a Nardi or similar? Mine has gone bad and I thought I might have a crack at redoing it, since it's awful anyway. 

 

Or, where do you buy leather in Auckland?

Contact EB Tolley in Kingsland, also have a website carseatcovers.co.nz, in addition to ebtolley.co.nz

Easiest to call in there and talk with Carol, they have loads of bits and pieces.

Assuming both are NZ new, both come with 5 year warranties, 150 k on the Nissan, and 130k on Mitsi, plus Mitsi has a 10 year/160km powertrain warranty.

Both are generic modern SUV style vehicles, with all the usual safety features, fruit etc.

The Qashqai ST (base spec) is probably more comfortable than the high spec Ti Qashqai, due to wheel/tyre sizes.  Depends if your mate does mostly motorway driving, or mix of average seal conditions.

Have been driving an ASX Black Edition, the last week or so, that's the previous 2019 model, but nice enough drive.

Both have CVT trans.

Qashqai built in the UK, and ASX in Japan.

If your mate is set up as a company, he will get a larger fleet discount, than if buying privately.  There's a host of finance options available, so comes down to his preference and how he wants to tailor things.

Nissan have introduced a 'future value' or financing, so guaranteed minimum repurchase price when he comes to trade in.

Ultimately comes down to which one he prefers. 

Trying to keep it as original as possible.

High chance it was the under floor vent line, as when I removed the tank, this had pulled through into the boot, but that may have happened getting the tank out, so will check everything before reinstalling just to make 100% sure.

That's cool, I'll get the radiator shop to have a go for me, no compressed air at home and not sure wheelie bin is big enough.

Tank has at least four connecting pipes, filler, outlet to fuel pump, plus two extra small vapour return lines or something similar.

With the longest resto in history nearing completion, I've discovered a slight problem.

Now I have put petrol in the tank, there is a wiff of fumes in the boot.  

I have cleaned and painted the tank exterior, and don't suspect the cause is the tank itself, but I did replace the tank sender unit with one that would work with a new gauge.  From memory the screw holes didn't line up exactly, and needed drilling in, with a large gasket as sealer.

All rubber hoses, vent lines etc have been replaced with new, and clamps tightened to hell.

Is there a company that can check a vehicle petrol tank for leaks in the AKL area?

The car also has a vaporisation unit, and I will remove this for inspection as well, but that requires removal of rear seats, parcel tray etc, which was a nightmare to install, and car on stands at the moment, due to LVV requiring mods to front struts that are away being welded.

So I'll get everything checked before I reinstall, to make sure we have no issues..

Robertson Instruments are in Onehunga, AKL, as I called in there a couple of weeks ago.  

007's in town.  Not everyday you spot a DB6

Spotted this P O S at Turners DVA today.

Auction finishes 23rd.

It's an auto unfortunately.....

Quite rough, but a worthwhile project if you've got the skills.

https://www.turners.co.nz/Damaged-Vehicles/Damaged-Cars-for-Sale/mazda/rx7-savanna/19924696

I have a Blackvue.

All info here.

https://www.blackvue.co.nz

Weber Wednesday.  The longest resto in history should be making some noise very soon....

Not a car but....

Fresh off the boat

Retro Autoparts in Malaysia seem to drag up some amazing finds.  Get in touch with them to see if they can hunt one down.

https://www.facebook.com/retro.autoparts/

Were some of these cars not badged as Chrysler or Pontiac in the US?

Could be some old stock under a different brand lurking.....

Also Phils Rotarys in Brisbane, QLD have another venture - ' New Old Car Company' for non Mazda parts.

Worth getting in touch with them as they get a lot of panel parts fabricated in Asia.

https://www.facebook.com/NEWOLDCARCOMPANY/

Bit of drone footage of a rally sprint a couple of weeks ago.

One 7 sliding nicely plus 3 coupe with cool colour scheme at the end.

UES have an extensive range of rubber components.

Here's their Rubber catalogue.

Store in Onehunga, although you generally have to buy a minimum length of a few metres or more.

https://uesint.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/rubber.pdf

4 hours ago, 13th said:

Hi everyone, 

I just had my freshly imported Rx7 stolen from CFR lines yard in Onehunga Auckland. If you see or hear anything about a S2 Rx7 please let me know. All factory 55km with perfect red interior. Will still have factory UK plates YKR376X.

I'm lost for words.

There should be security footage around there and neighbouring premises.