spiderwebfx

I went to the bridgestone place and they are currently doing 25% off and its $236 per tyre for Adrenaline RE003's. Reviews look excellent and at 25% off its about $175 a corner so I am thinking that will be the go. Little bit over budget but its pretty cheap for performance tyres.

Wow, I thought the Michelins were an expensive tyre in that size.  (Normally retail is $210 ish for memory.)  Still with 25% off though, that's a good deal.  

I'll be interested to hear how the perform (Gives me competitor knowledge in a roundabout sort of way.)

OP, I know it's only been a few days but just wondering if you ended up making a decision on what to get?

Fair enough,

 

Im going to be living back in Auckland in like 3 weeks

Cool, of the two you mentioned, the Falken should be the better tyre for typical road use, but the Nankang is a better size.  (based on my customer feedback, not my own personal experience)

Based on the fact that someone on Trademe has the Falkens at $139 each with free fitting, I'd be more inclined to go with them over the $159 Nankang's though.

I'll just tag on in this as it's tyre related ...

 

Looking at some 16" tyres, and trying to decide what would be a better width / profile.

 

195/45/16 vs 205/40/16.  

 

Looking at Nankang NS20's in the 195/45/16 and Falken ZE192's in the 205/40/16

 

Would like an overall 'good' road tyre, anyone had experience with either of those?  Or some other recommendations?  Around the $130-160 price per tyre would be great.

Where are you based? Location says Canada, so just want to check before I make a suggestion.

Whatever you end up going with, just remember that tyres are the ONLY thing that is keeping you on the road.  
Brands like Michelin, Bridgestone, Goodyear and those other top end ones put a lot of R & D into produces tyres that a safe, drive well, are fuel efficient and quiet.

Brands like Linglong, Hifly, Triangle, etc (And this is literal) buy a tyre from a renown manufacturer, make a mold of it, change the sideplates and print there own with whatever rubber they think will work.  


Unfortunately same thing happens with truck tyres, some tyres will wheel spin on the Auckland motorway in the dry under normal use and no decent brands will.

It's a little bit higher than $150, but if you can bring your car to Rotorua, I'll do you some 195/60R15 Michelin XM2's at $165 each including fitting and balancing.  

I had a Toyota Camry do 105,000 km's on the front with this pattern recently.  (Rears are still on it, light driving though...)

When I worked at Firestone seven years ago, we had a set of them hanging by each impact in the store.

Never once used them, at least not without checking them after.

The idea of them hopefully being to torque spec is heavily outweighed by the risk if they aren't.

I never realized it was such a drama to do a vehicle that requires shims up there.  It's just standard practice in our shop in Rotorua.  4x4 Couriers are the worst, but in no way impossible.  We just like the do it once, do it right approach...

Thanks guys. 

Is it ok to have the radiator sitting on a slight angle towards the front of the car?  Planning on doing a midmount with the intercooler, but unless I find a radiator hose that goes backwards, it won't work.  So I'm contemplating putting the intercooler on an angle so the top is under the radiator support panel, and then have the top of the radiator right behind it.  Means the radiator will be on a 10 degree angle or so.

Open to opinions for other ideas as well.

This is only relevant to your own vehicle.

Yes each track loads Tyres differently, chassis tuning should be used to compensate for this and avoid excessive tyre wear.

How does one do this? (Genuine question) I would've thought that to be quite complicated and out of the capability of most vehicles on OS.  (Or is it pretty straight forward)

My two tyres were both on my old S14.  Running around 24-28 PSI hot.  Car weighed about 1250-1300kg's.

Thanks, it's always better to hear what people who've actually used a product think of it. I might have to head in store and see if I can have a better look at one of these, they might just fit the bill.

 

 

Not sure the budget will quite stretch to a Wayco, although I'm sure they're worth every cent.

Yeah, for us they are, but we use them in a tyre shop where we spend more to have it last more than 6 months.  (We've got three and our newest one is 16months old)

I have used the Powerbuilt one before, but didn't like it.  The pin that holds the universal together at the bottom of the handle fell out and disappeared.  Now it's got a screw in there that makes it a bitch to turn.

I suppose the big thing, is whatever budget, get the best you can afford.  Jacks are one of those "you get what you pay for things".  And if you aren't sure, use axle stands.

Kumho V700 (225/45R17) - 7/10 
Had these from new.  I thought they were amazing at first as these were the first semi slicks I'd been on.  Went to the R888's afterwards and would never go back.

Toyo R888 (225/50R16) - 10/10
Absolutely loved them, and I bought them second hand.  Good response, and performed well under braking and heavy cornering.  They also lasted longer than the V700's and I bought them second hand, and resold them as second hand again.

After my own experiences between the two, and other peoples reviews of the R888's vs Dunlops, Bridgestones and Falkens, I'll be sticking to them when my cars track ready.
 

One thing to also take into account if you are doing a lot of circuit time on a single track.
Taupo wears the drivers side outside shoulders of the tyres wear out like a bitch, whereas Pukekohe and Hampton are the opposite, I can't comment on Manfield or Ruapuna as I haven't been on them.  Assymetric designed tyres can only be fitted one way so you may get to a point where your tyres are no good even though they still have life.  (V700's did this.)  Directional ones like the R888's can be put on whichever way as long as they're pointing forward, meaning you can maximize your usage out of them.

Anyway, hope my post helps somewhat.

I still stand by the Wayco ones; http://www.wayco.co.nz/w1001.htm

I'll have to double check pricing, online the seem to be around $500 a piece, but i'm sure i only pay around $300 for them.


Edit// Pretty sure I get them for $350

teflon or kevlar lined is what the book says, with a load rating suitable for the application

I have the information for the load ratings on the T3 rod ends somewhere.  I know the 4-link arms far exceeded minimum spec based on what Neil Miller told me.  I'll try find the information.

Just get the centre machined to 66.1mm then it will be hub-centric.

Earlier Ford Mondeo's and Falcon's with steel wheels never had a lip on them, they're just flat.

Or just accept Clint as a GC and realise driveshaft loops are not actually a big deal

I agree. I don't understand why it is such a big deal. For the sake of $80 (or $160 if you need two) and a little bit of modification, you could potentially save $1000's of damage.  A driveshaft hoop was the very first thing I did once I got my one piece made up.  So straight forward and simple to do.  (Used BNT kit)

I'd go with Wifi at the workshop and listen to radio via interwebs. every radio station can be played online AFAIK.

To4E looks exactly the same. I'd go with that.

Yeah I got you.

I had a look through the whole catalogue, couldnt seem to find any with the same specs that didnt have water cooling.

 

Could it be that the center piece isn't from a Garrett turbo and that it's been frankensteined from 2 different turbos?

It could be, but it would be incredibly unlikely.

Thanks a whole bunch man. It's not water cooled, thats just the oil feed in the bottom 2 pictures.

No, I mean in the PDF, the turbo pictured is water cooled.

Looks like it could be an old GT3076R based on your measurements and this sheet;

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/catalog_pdf/Garrett_GT3076R_700382-12.pdf

It's not quite bang on, but it's the closest I could find.  It's also A/R is 0.60 and 0.84 exhaust trim.

Edit// Did notice it has water cooling, so maybe not this one.

Sky Sport only - I don't even have Sky let alone the ability to add on Sky Sport and it's restrictively expensive to get it installed for 1 day of watching - probably cheaper to go to Bathurst and watch in person.

Yeah that's true.  I have access to my Dad's Sky Go, but that thing is unreliable as fuck.

I'm interested in this.  I'm guessing no NZ tv station is showing it?