spiderwebfx

Quick update on this.
Ended up getting some Tein 5kg rear springs.  They made a HUGE difference.  Looks like I had 8kg springs all round, which was most of the problem.  I'm still waiting for some shocks to arrive to match my front ones.  Once they show up I'll be getting some Tein 7kg springs to put in the front as well. That way the shocks match and the springs match.

Nope. She bought another car. We're now putting it on the market.

Thanks for all your guys feedback.  I'm going to put the hunt for springs on hold and try find some rear shocks that are more suitable to the car.  Based on your guys feedback, I think that is the best place to start.

Ahk, I will check that tomorrow.

Definitely sounds like it still has compression.  I've turned it over with and without spark plugs in and there is a huge difference.

3 hours ago, Ranter said:

With complete disregard for the diagnoses effort above I'll offer that 3 things usually stop these cars, and your fuel pump is apparently working.

Crank angle sensor or timing belt jump due to water pump failure are the main reasons I see them stop, while computer issues are not uncommon its not the first conclusion drawn.

Cheers man, I appreciate the input.  I've managed to get spark, so i've now eliminated that as well.  Guess next step is checking what you've mentioned.  Otherwise, I'll call it quits on trying to fix and get her to take it to a mechanic instead.  

No alarm system / immobilizer and it died while driving. 

Have removed a fuel line and turned key which pumped fuel out. This was the first thing I checked. 

I couldn't get spark plugs or leads to spark when held against a ground and 'start ya bastard' wouldn't ignite.

1 hour ago, smokin'joe said:

have these for sale if you want something to play around with:

could sharpen price if you wanted 2 sets.

Hey I may be interested in the 4.6kg nismo ones. I'll have a look tonight and get back to you. 

Ahh sweet that's easy enough. 

So if I get a signal/pulse from it, in theory the coils,  all leads and/or all plugs are buggered. 

If it doesn't,  it's most likely ecu or there's been a break in some wiring. 

I have already found some coils at a local wrecker so if it's those I'll pick them up tomorrow. 

13 hours ago, chris r said:

If the two fat wires are power and earth you could rey rangi some cables onto them and then probe the other pin and check for spark that way. most of the time there will be a earth signal to trigger the igniter/coil

This bit has confused me slightly.  Could I not just turn ignition and see if a signal goes through the potential 3rd wire? Do they have to be bridged?  Sorry not 100% confidential  on electrical bits.

I have just gone and got a led test light to be able to check  it. Was planning to get one anyway. 

Cheers for the help.  I'll play with the shocks a bit more when I have the car at work and can drive it around the back yard.  Rear shocks aren't adjustable at all but they probably don't help as they're 4x4 shocks.

Ok. I will have a look at that tomorrow. It's a bit dark now and can't see anything.  Will report back here with the results.

Thanks for your help so far.

Yep, all are populated.

3 matching wires on each one. Then 1 different color on each.
Brown(thick), black/white(thick), black/yellow(thin)

Then red/blue on one and white/red on the other.

There is two.  Each has a 4 pin plug and then 2 ignition leads.  One is for cylinders 1 and 4, other is 2 and 3.  They look like this: 

Tested. I got a pulse through them.  Does that eliminate crank and cam angle sensors?

10 minutes ago, chris r said:

have you got a test light? if so test for injection pulse. If you have injection pulse but no spark it could be ignition related. if you dont have both you could have cam/crank sensor faults

Cheers, will test that now. Is it as simple as unplugging injector and connecting the test light to a pin on the plug? Or is it better to do it while the injector is still plugged in?

Flatmates car broke down yesterday.  She was coming down a hill, engine light come on, and then when the car came to a stop at a roundabout, died.
Was probably two minutes between starting it and it dying.

1998 Toyota Caldina ST215G | 3SFE | Auto

Appears the motor has no spark but I cannot pinpoint why.  Is it possible that the two coils have gone faulty at the same time? Is there a fail safe where it won't start if one is faulty?

Pretty sure leads and plugs are on the way out, but I wouldn't of thought that this would stop it from starting it all.  'Start ya bastard' does not help it to fire.

Faults pulled from bridging OBD2 plug terminals: 21 (O2 Sensor), 24 (Air temp sensor).  Air temp only showed up since battery was disconnected, was not there straight after it stopped.
(These descriptions may be wrong, I could only find fault codes for OBD1 plugs. If so, let me know what they actually are)

Some multi meter tests I've done to get to where I'm at now:

Cylinders
1 | 2 | 3 | 4

Injector Resistances (ohm)
14.6 | 15.5 | 14.5 | 18.4

Lead Resistances (ohm)
4.2 | 3.3 | 3.1 | 2.21

Compression Test
210 | 220 | 210 | 220

Is there a way to test if the coils are fried?

Sorry it's not oldschool. I'm struggling to find any help through Google and am not registered on any Toyota forums.

Nearly.  Still need to do exhaust system and then get a cert.  Just trying to free up some funds to do the exhaust atm.

S12 has S14 front coilovers with 8kg springs. damper on lowest setting.  

Rear has adjustable collar spring seats with I think 6 or 8kg springs and some random Colorado shocks (not damper adjustable).

The front end seems to stiff with the small amount of driving it's done so I'm looking at alternative options.

Wondering if I should drop down to 6kg/4kg springs?  (or even 7kg/5kg if available) It'll mainly be used on road with the odd track day.

Kurb weight is 1170kg standard. But SR20DET is roughly 25 kg's heavier than factory motor and has had nothing in terms of taking weight away from the car done.  (This might help to reference peoples opinions on there setups)

I made an update...

It's been so long :/

Sweet thanks for that info;

 

I'll maybe look into a 185/60/13,   And I saw a few people have managed to get the 175/50/13's onto 7.5 wide rims before too, so could look at that for a low profile 

Are you needing it to be legal? If so, 215/50R13 is your only option.

just bumping this thread rather than starting a new one ;

I'm gonna be needing some 13" tyres soon. going on a 8" wide rim, wanting something lowish profile , but not the 215/50/13 eagers and etc look.

did some googling already and I've found a 195/45/13 by continental, but I've rung around a few tyre shops and no-one seems to want to know about it or even know about it (spoke to a continental rep) .

Anyone have any knowledge with 13" tyres and what would be good on a 8" wheel

cheers

Nothing low profile like that is imported into New Zealand.  Smallest/widest is the 215/50R13 or 205/60R13

There is a 195/50R13 commercial trailer tyre. But you won't get them to stretch out onto a rim like that. 

Next one down would a 175/60R13

Hey Clint,

Just wondering if these would be certifiable?

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s14-s15-40mm-roll-center-correction-kit.html

Cheers