spiderwebfx

Thanks! 

On 2/4/2018 at 20:02, cletus said:

Does it say nissan mod on the plate  where it says what make of engine it is?

Yup, does say Nissan Mod.

I'm wanting to increase the engine power on my S12.  It was certed with the current motor but I plan on adding bigger injectors, afm and a Nistune board and taking it for a tune.  Does it need to be recerted because of power increase?

Engine is a S14 SR20DET, at time of cert it had exhaust, intercooler, s15 turbo, and a boost controller set up.  

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On 1/15/2018 at 12:44, grantdavis28 said:

3rd option!

Falken ZE912 in 205/60r15 @ 184ea

Shame you aren't closer to Rotorua, I can do these for around $150 ea fitted,  or the ZE914EC which is superseding them; same price.  Can get these in the 205/55 as well, but pricing closer to RE003's so they'd be a better option.

Dunlop Star Spec II's aren't in either size unfortunately.

Checked on Michelin, they only do the XM2 in 205/60R15, but they're more of a high-mileage, comfort, fuel-efficient tyre as opposed to performance orientated.  The exact opposite of what's required.  In saying that, they're a real robust casing, so would handle the gravel roads extremely well.

K415 isn't really a performance tyre, (it's one of Hankook's more entry level products).  They'd be alright for Sunday driving, but definitely change to some different tyres for a track day or you'll eat them after a few laps.

I see Continental now do a UltraContact6 in the 205/60R15.  They're probably near on $200 ea, but supposedly they'd handle well.  Brand new tyre to NZ though, so probably won't get much feedback from them here yet.

All this is more aimed for the 205/60R15 size; not really a performance size, more so a tyre size we convert a lot of 3 series BMW's to because the 195/65's look too narrow on the factory 7" rims.

If performance is the main ultimate goal, definitely go RE003.

3 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I stumbled across a deal today for a milwaukee dugga dugga gun (skin only) for $378inc get. 

I'd have to save up for batteries and a charger, but it's still a fair smack cheaper than the $549 it seems to be everywhere else. Kicker is it finishes on Thurs.  I thought I'd bump this thread so the old school hive mind could talk me into, or out of buying one.

Will 100% vouch for the Milwaukee impact guns.  Have been using the M18 3/4" high torque gun for a few months now for work.  (Commercial tyre fitter.)  I use it for 95% of the wheel nuts I touch, its not got quite as much grunt as the Ingersoll Rand 2145QiMax air impact gun. (But I ram 150psi into that so thats to be expected.)

I'm typically needing at least 500ft.lb torque to get wheel nuts undone.

I've also got the M18 1/2" medium torque impact gun, which I use all the time for 2 piece forklift wheels.  This thing is a dream and it's so easy and light to use.

Tips from experience, if you are going to use it all the time, spend the money and get the 9.0aH battery.  If you buy a kit, it's only $70(+gst) per battery to upgrade them from the 5.0aH if you buy through The Tool Shed.

I have also purchased some M12 stuff for personal home stuff as well.  Impact driver, multi-tool, led workshop light and led torch. In M18 I've also got a drill and angle grinder for home use.

Also, keep an eye on http://www.mymilwaukee.co.nz/ .  They have redemption offers where if you buy from a legit retailer (such as The Tool Shed) you can claim some free shit.  I got two M12 LED torches and an M12 4aH battery from this.

1 hour ago, oldrx7 said:

worth just asking a local tyre shop?

you never know, a box of beer as payment might be sweet 

If they've got a source for getting rid of them to farms maybe.  Otherwise it costs the tyre shops at least $3.50 each to get rid of 'em.

Looks like a real low offset version of the Rays Gram Light 57C6

Use the 175/60R13 A539.  Lower profile, but still nice and wide, handle well and they'll do the distance.
Awesome looking tyre in person too.

In the 155/70R13 bang for buck, the Michelin's will be the best even though they cost more. They'll handle better, are more comfortable, quieter and last longer than the alternatives.  
Toyo Nanoenergy and AE01 are fuel efficient tyres, so mileage is generally a bit of a compromise.

As far as availability, the 155/70R13 Yoko AE01 has very limited stock from the supplier at the moment, everything else is readily available including the 175/60R13.


If you are after a cheap 175/60R13, you can probably pick up a Chinese tyre called a Sunfull for around $90 each at the moment.  Otherwise, Falken ZE912's are on there way from Japan, but haven't landed in NZ yet, their pricing would be similar to A539's though.

We use Teng Tool ones at work.  (Tyre shop.)  
1/2" 40-210 nM.  

Push through drive so that you can do left hand thread as well.

~$130+gst so pretty sharp on the price as well.

In our workshop they last us about 18months.  (Used multiple times a day, 6 days a week.)
 

None of ours have gone out of calibration tolerance while we've owned them.

Doubled :/

On 6/15/2017 at 15:22, Firetruck said:

You've got to remember that a lot of cars have limited adjustment. I've dealt with a few where everything is out of spec but the only adjustment is front toe. Can't do fuck all about anything else.

I can't remember what degree of adjustment an Altezza has. Ideally you want an alignment guy who actually pays attention to the wear on the tyres and compensates for it. This also relies on the tyres remaining on the same corners though.

Altezza's are full adjustable for memory.  
Front toe, caster, camber, and rear toe, camber.  

The only way to get them right 100% after the alignment is to actually adjust everything.  More often than not, the rear camber gets thrown out, which throws the toe with it.  The stupid thing is overall, they are easy to do wheel alignments on; eccentric rear toe and rear camber can be a little fidgety, but front camber is eccentric washer and caster rods are threaded. 
Unfortunately so many alignment techs just do the "Toe and Go" special because it's a faster turn around.

It's not as bad as that photo makes it look.  When it's on the ground the axle pivots forward and the spring goes straight towards where it sits on the chassis.  

The problem I've got (because I'm trying to put in the factory bush) is because the center of the factory bush is offset to the center of where the spring sits on the chassis now. (Does that make sense)  So to put the bush in, I've gotta put something in to move where the spring sits against it.

Back at it with the spring and shock issue again now.  Everything is working, but I don't like it.  Steel springs straight onto steel on the chassis are getting a tad annoying.  So I've got the OEM rubber mounts and the springs with an engineer to make me some adapters so they can work together.   This seems like a better idea than a tapered spring and will get them sitting on a more ideal axis.  

Photo of the current spring angle (note both mounts are level, so spring is being forced into an angle.)

What the goal with the adaptor is;

I may end up having to get some slightly shorter springs as well to help reduce the stroke.  (200mm length has a little too much for the height it is sitting at.)

I'm also having some weird things going on with my fuel pump, maybe someone has experienced it before?

Car has a genuine Walbro 255lph pump with a 12v relayed power supply.  When you first start the car up everything sounds fine.  Go for a good spirited drive, hop out of the car, the fuel pump sounds like it's whining.  Turn the car off and back on again, it goes back to normal.  Any idea on this?

Cars all back together now.  Took it for a drive, everything seems good.  Brake caliper brackets were perfect. Diff seems to make less noise than it used to.  And the speedo is only about 4% off actual speed instead of 18% (blaming the tyre size for that).

I have noticed the rear springs seem to be making noise as if it's moving around.  I think it's always been there, just more noticeable since all the other noises and vibrations have been reduced.  Does anyone know if you can get springs that are tapered? So the bottom diameter is 65mm, but the top 80mm and 200mm long.  I'm thinking of running something like that and putting the factory rubber bushes back on the top of them.  (Springs are currently steel on steel.)

Anyway, apart from that, car is going good.  I'm making a plan to take a decent photo of it on Sunday.

Got this back today.  Will be putting it back in on Friday.  Just waiting for the new brake caliper brackets to be finished.

So clean and shiny

On 5/9/2017 at 21:16, Dolan said:

Matt at robertson tyres is a gc too tbh irl

Will vouch for Matt also.

/Edit  My god, didn't realize this was a few weeks old. Apologies.

Those three being like that are not supposed to be fixed.
They won't overlap if they are repaired with the right size patches, but you aren't suppose to have that many repairs in such a small section.

However, in saying that, if they are simple straight holes and not on any angles, I'd probably fix it but then make sure it's on the rear.

Coming from commercial and retail tyre experience.  Once you've seen some of the shit you can get fixed in truck tyres, you'd laugh at whats happened to those tyres.

Yep, still here.  Been out in it a few times now.  People love staring at the car.

Well car failed cert.  Pretty small list in all honesty, but one of them is possibly a big job.

No spring washers on engine mounts. (Easy fix)
No rear bump stops. (I thought the were on the shaft of the shock)
Rear suspension is too hard.
Upper 4-links touching on chassis.

So the last 3 are really all hand in hand with each other.  The car still feels a little bit like you sitting on bump stops.  I'm wondering if a lot of this is too do with the 4-link arms being rose-jointed as opposed to the factory arms having bushes.

So my plan, too lift it a bit higher, find different shocks for the rear... again...  that also have bump stops on the shaft.  Hopefully this will sort the whole 3 things out.

I lifted it tonight, about 15-20mm.  It's given heaps more clearance underneath so that, combined with bump stops will fix the upper 4-links from touching the chassis and hopefully, improve the ride quality so it's suitable.


Certifier will be back in Rotorua week after next so I'll get it done by that and then see how I go again.

That was meant to say now putting on the market...

No photos just quick update.

Was doing some little maintenance things on the car.  One of which involved fixing 4 leaks in the intake system.  Once that was done, the car wouldn't run or idle or anything anymore.  Went through so many different things trying to fix (injectors, CAS, replacing AFM, fuel pressure/fuel pump)  turns out the guy I bought the motor off gave me the wrong AFM.  (I bought one with the same part number)  $40 later I had the right one and it runs primo.

Replaced rear springs with 5kg rears.  Looks like I had 8's in it which is why it was so hard riding.

and big news;

Cert booked for next week.
nearly 7 years and it's almost legal.